How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: EX)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and brake bedding for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016-2020 Honda Civic (Trim: EX)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and brake bedding for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Civic - Front Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement
This repair replaces the front brake pads and front brake rotors on your Civic. Worn pads or warped rotors can cause squealing, grinding, vibration while braking, or longer stopping distance.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool vehicle. Brake parts can get very hot after driving.
- ⚠️ Always support your Civic with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust and rust flakes can irritate skin and eyes.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Do one side at a time so the other side can be used as a reference.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 1/2-inch breaker bar
- Torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs
- Phillips #3 impact screwdriver
- Dead blow hammer
- C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor tool
- Brake caliper hanger hook
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Wire brush
- Brake parts cleaner spray
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Civic on level ground.
- Shift to Park if automatic, or 1st gear if manual.
- Set the parking brake before lifting the front of the vehicle.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing caliper pistons.
- A caliper is the brake clamp that squeezes the pads against the rotor. The rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about 1/2 turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen before lifting the car.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Civic at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself better access to the caliper on the side you are working on.
- Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the brake pads.
- Use a brake caliper hanger hook to hang the caliper from the front strut spring.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads
- Use your hands or a flat blade screwdriver to slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
- Note the position of the wear indicator tab before removal. The wear indicator is the small metal tab that squeals when pads are worn.
- Remove the old pad clips from the bracket by hand or with the flat blade screwdriver.
Step 6: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the caliper bracket from the steering knuckle.
- The steering knuckle is the metal suspension part the brake assembly bolts to.
Step 7: Remove the Brake Rotor Retaining Screws
- Use a Phillips #3 impact screwdriver to remove the small rotor retaining screws.
- An impact screwdriver turns when struck with a hammer, helping remove tight screws without stripping them.
- If the screws are stuck, tap the impact screwdriver with a dead blow hammer.
- Press hard to avoid stripping screws.
Step 8: Remove the Old Rotor
- Pull the old rotor straight off the hub by hand.
- If it is stuck from rust, tap around the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer.
- Do not strike the wheel studs directly.
Step 9: Clean the Hub Face
- Use a wire brush to clean rust from the wheel hub face.
- Spray the area with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe it clean.
- The hub face must be flat and clean so the new rotor sits evenly.
Step 10: Install the New Rotor
- Spray the new rotor braking surfaces with brake parts cleaner spray to remove protective oil.
- Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
- Install the rotor retaining screws using the Phillips #3 impact screwdriver.
- Tighten the rotor screws snug only. Do not overtighten them.
Step 11: Prepare the Caliper Bracket
- Use a wire brush to clean the pad clip contact areas on the caliper bracket.
- Install the new brake pad clips by hand.
- Apply a thin coat of brake lubricant to the pad clip contact points only.
- Do not put lubricant on the rotor or pad friction material.
Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Position the caliper bracket over the rotor.
- Thread the two bracket bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads
- Slide the new brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure the pads move smoothly in the clips.
- If they bind, remove them and check that the clips are fully seated.
- Pads should slide, not force.
Step 14: Compress the Caliper Piston
- Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
- Use a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- A piston is the round metal part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. Stop if fluid gets close to overflowing.
Step 15: Reinstall the Brake Caliper
- Remove the brake caliper hanger hook.
- Place the caliper over the new pads.
- Thread the two caliper slide pin bolts by hand first.
- Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the slide pin bolts.
- Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)
Step 16: Repeat on the Other Front Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the other front brake assembly.
- Use the same tools and the same torque specifications.
- Replace pads and rotors on both front sides as a pair.
Step 17: Reinstall the Wheels
- Install each front wheel onto the hub.
- Start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower your Civic to the ground.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
- Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
Step 19: Pump the Brake Pedal
- Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
- This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
- Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.
✅ After Repair
- Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
- Start the vehicle and press the brake pedal again. It should stay firm and not sink to the floor.
- Look behind both front wheels for leaks or loose parts.
- Test drive slowly in a safe area first.
- Bed in the brakes by making several gentle stops from moderate speed, then allow the brakes to cool.
- Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
- Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$390 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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