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2018 Chevrolet Malibu
2016 - 2019 Chevrolet Malibu
Hybrid
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2016-2021 Chevrolet Malibu Front Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

2016-2021 Chevrolet Malibu Front Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
1/2
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016-2020 Chevrolet Malibu (Trim: LS)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2016-2020 Chevrolet Malibu (Trim: LS)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Malibu - Front Brake Pads and Rotors Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and both front rotors on your Malibu. Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains available as a reference.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

Assumption: Factory front brakes with stock single-piston calipers.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Malibu with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • 🛑 Replace front pads and rotors on both sides to maintain even braking.
  • 🧤 Brake dust is harmful. Do not use compressed air; clean it with brake cleaner.
  • 🔥 Allow the brakes to cool completely before beginning.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required for this front-brake repair.
  • 🚫 Do not press the brake pedal while either front caliper is removed.
  • ⚙️ Do not let a caliper hang from its flexible brake hose.
  • 💧 Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately with water.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 2-ton floor jack
  • 2-ton jack stands
  • Wheel chocks
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 200 Nm
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 19mm deep socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • Torx T30 bit socket
  • 150mm socket extension
  • 7mm flare-nut wrench
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Large adjustable pliers
  • Brake piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Caliper hanger hooks (specialty)
  • Wire brush
  • Nylon detailing brush
  • Rubber mallet
  • Drain pan
  • Plastic syringe
  • 400-grit abrasive paper
  • Clean lint-free shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front brake pad set with hardware - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
  • Brake cleaner aerosol - Qty: 2 cans
  • High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
  • Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1 tube
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 500 ml

📋 Before You Begin

  • 📍 Park on firm, level ground. Place the transmission in Park and apply the parking brake.
  • 🔒 Place wheel chocks securely behind both rear tires.
  • 📱 No infotainment service mode or scan-tool command is required for the front brakes.
  • 🔍 Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid level. Remove a little fluid with a plastic syringe if it is near MAX, because retracting the pistons raises the level.
  • 📸 Take a picture of each assembled brake before removing parts.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts

  • Use the 19mm deep socket and breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
  • Do not remove the nuts while your Malibu is on the ground.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front

  • Use the 2-ton floor jack at the reinforced front lifting point specified for your Malibu.
  • Position the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle onto the stands, leave the floor jack lightly supporting the vehicle, and gently shake the body to verify stability.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use the 19mm deep socket and ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and slide them beneath the rocker-panel area as an additional precaution.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel to provide easier access to the side being serviced.
  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver to gently check that the caliper can move on its guide pins.
  • Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts. Hold the guide pin with an appropriate wrench if it begins turning.
  • Lift the caliper from the bracket and support it with a caliper hanger hook.
  • A caliper hanger is a hook that supports the caliper without straining its hose.
  • Never suspend the caliper by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Old Brake Pads

  • Pull both pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use the flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless-steel pad hardware clips.
  • Note the location of any wear indicator before discarding the old pads.
  • Compare the inner and outer pad thickness. A major difference can indicate sticking guide pins or a binding caliper.

Step 6: Retract the Caliper Piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Open the brake-fluid reservoir cap and cover the surrounding area with clean shop towels.
  • Use the brake piston compression tool to press the piston slowly and evenly into the caliper.
  • A piston compression tool pushes the hydraulic piston back to make room for thicker new pads.
  • Watch the reservoir and remove excess fluid with the plastic syringe before it overflows.
  • If the piston binds, stop. Do not force it with large adjustable pliers because the piston or caliper can be damaged.

Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the 21mm socket, 150mm extension, and breaker bar to remove the two caliper-bracket bolts.
  • Remove the bracket and place it on a clean work surface.
  • Use the nylon detailing brush and brake cleaner over the drain pan to clean the bracket.

Step 8: Service the Guide Pins and Pad Lands

  • Pull each guide pin and rubber boot from the bracket by hand, keeping the upper and lower pins in their original positions.
  • Use clean lint-free shop towels and brake cleaner to remove the old lubricant.
  • Inspect the pins and boots for rust, scoring, swelling, or tears. Replace damaged parts before continuing.
  • Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant to the smooth guide-pin surfaces, then reinstall the pins and seat the boots fully.
  • Use the wire brush to clean rust from the bracket surfaces beneath the pad hardware.
  • Install the new hardware clips by hand, then place a very thin film of silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips.
  • Keep lubricant away from the pad friction material and rotor faces.
  • Thin lubricant layers prevent dirt buildup.

Step 9: Remove the Old Rotor

  • Use the Torx T30 bit socket and ratchet to remove the rotor retaining screw, if fitted.
  • If the rotor is rusted to the hub, strike the rotor hat between the wheel studs with the rubber mallet.
  • Do not strike the wheel studs or the rotor’s thin outer edge.
  • Remove the rotor from the hub.

Step 10: Clean the Hub

  • Put on safety glasses and use the wire brush to remove rust from the hub face and center pilot.
  • Use 400-grit abrasive paper for stubborn raised corrosion.
  • Wipe the hub clean with brake cleaner and a lint-free shop towel.
  • The new rotor must sit completely flat against the hub. Remaining rust can cause pedal pulsation.

Step 11: Prepare and Install the New Rotor

  • Use brake cleaner and clean lint-free shop towels to clean both friction faces of the new rotor.
  • Install the rotor over the wheel studs.
  • Reinstall the retaining screw with the Torx T30 bit socket. Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
  • Do not over-tighten the small retaining screw.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

  • Clean the bracket-bolt threads with brake cleaner and a wire brush, then dry them.
  • Apply one small drop of medium-strength threadlocker to the clean bracket-bolt threads.
  • Install the bracket and start both bolts by hand.
  • Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten both bolts. Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Fit the inner and outer pads into the new hardware clips by hand.
  • Confirm that each pad slides freely without excessive looseness.
  • Keep all grease and fingerprints away from the pad friction surfaces.

Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Place the compressed caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
  • Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the guide-pin bolts. Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
  • Confirm that the brake hose follows its natural route and cannot contact the tire.

Step 15: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Use the same tools and procedure to replace the pads and rotor on the opposite front wheel.
  • Compare the completed side with the side you are assembling if any clip position is unclear.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Install each wheel and start all five nuts by hand.
  • Use the 19mm deep socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
  • Use the floor jack to raise your Malibu slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use the 19mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern. Torque to 140 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Restore Brake Pedal Pressure

  • With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it becomes firm.
  • Do not move your Malibu until the pedal feels firm.
  • Check the reservoir and adjust to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if necessary.
  • Install the reservoir cap securely and clean any spilled fluid with water.

✅ After Repair

  • 🛑 Start the engine and hold firm pedal pressure for 30 seconds. The pedal should remain steady and must not sink toward the floor.
  • 🔍 Inspect both front calipers and hoses for leakage before moving your Malibu.
  • 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area.
  • 🔥 Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Do not come to a complete stop during each cycle.
  • 🌬️ Drive for 5-10 minutes afterward with minimal braking so the brakes can cool.
  • 🚫 Avoid hard braking and holding the hot brakes at a complete stop for the first 300 km unless required for safety.
  • 🔩 Recheck the wheel-nut torque to 140 Nm (100 ft-lbs) after approximately 80-100 km.
  • ⚠️ If the pedal remains soft, the vehicle pulls strongly, grinding continues, or fluid leaks appear, do not drive it.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹32,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹8,000-₹17,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹10,000-₹15,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor and parts prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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