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2019 Nissan Altima
2013 - 2017 Nissan Altima
Base Inline 4 2.5L Sedan
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  • Nissan Altima
  • 2019
  • How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2025 Nissan Altima (Trim: Edition ONE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L | Body: Sedan)
How to replace front brake pads and rotors and rear pads on 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 Nissan Altima

How to replace front brake pads and rotors and rear pads on 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 Nissan Altima

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2025 Nissan Altima (Trim: Edition ONE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2025 Nissan Altima (Trim: Edition ONE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L | Body: Sedan)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

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Orion

🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement

This is a very manageable brake job if you work one side at a time and use a torque wrench. You’ll remove the front caliper and bracket, replace both rotors and the complete front pad set, then bed the new brakes.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

Assumption: These instructions cover the stock front single-piston brake assembly.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Altima with jack stands.
  • ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Chock both rear wheels and leave the parking brake applied.
  • ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal while either front caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Hang the caliper securely. Never let it dangle from the rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Don’t blow it away with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Brake cleaner and fluid damage paint. Rinse spills immediately with water.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnection isn’t required for this front brake job.
  • ⚠️ The electronic parking-brake service mode isn’t required because the rear brakes aren’t being opened.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm six-point socket
  • 14mm six-point socket
  • 19mm six-point socket
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated to 30 ft-lbs
  • 17mm combination wrench
  • 8-inch C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Two wheel chocks
  • Brake caliper hanger or 16-gauge mechanic’s wire
  • Soft-face dead-blow hammer
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • Small nylon detailing brush
  • Brake-fluid suction syringe
  • Wheel-hub cleaning brush
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front ceramic brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Front brake rotors - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
  • Front brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Silicone-based brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 sealed bottle, only if adjustment is needed
  • Disposable shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

For Sonīpat’s heat and dust, I’d use coated rotors and quality ceramic pads. Plain bargain rotors can turn orange while you’re still admiring the receipt.


📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level pavement, select Park, apply the parking brake, and switch the ignition off.
  • Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid reservoir. Remove a little fluid with the brake-fluid suction syringe if it’s near MAX.
  • Loosen each front lug nut approximately one-quarter turn with the 21mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Raise the front at the approved center lifting point, then place jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
  • Give your Altima a gentle push before removing the wheels. It shouldn’t shift on the stands.
  • Keep the old pad and one old rotor available until the new parts have been compared.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
  • Remove both front wheels and slide one wheel beneath the rocker-panel area as a backup.

Step 2: Inspect the Brake Assembly

  • Use the safety glasses and inspect the brake hose, caliper piston boot, guide-pin boots, and wheel hub.
  • Check for wet brake fluid, torn rubber, severe uneven pad wear, or blue heat spots.
  • If one pad is much thinner than its partner, stop and inspect the caliper and guide pins for sticking.

Step 3: Remove the Caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel to point the caliper outward for easier access.
  • Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to remove both caliper guide-pin bolts.
  • If a guide pin turns, hold its flats with the 17mm combination wrench.
  • Lift the caliper off and suspend it with the brake caliper hanger.
  • Don’t disconnect the brake hose or open the bleeder screw.

Step 4: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

  • Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to lift the pads from the bracket.
  • Remove the stainless pad-retainer clips from the bracket.
  • Note the original position of the inner pad’s wear-indicator tab.

Step 5: Remove the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the two bracket-to-knuckle bolts.
  • Support the bracket while removing the final bolt.
  • Remove the bracket and keep its bolts clean.

Step 6: Remove the Old Rotor

  • Pull the rotor straight off the wheel studs.
  • If it’s rusted in place, use the dead-blow hammer to strike the rotor hat between the studs.
  • Don’t strike the wheel studs, dust shield, or rotor braking surface.
  • Rotate the rotor between light hammer strikes.

Step 7: Clean the Hub

  • Use the wheel-hub cleaning brush to remove rust and scale from the hub face.
  • Wipe the hub clean with brake cleaner and shop towels.
  • The new rotor must sit completely flat. Rust trapped behind it can cause pedal vibration.

Step 8: Prepare and Install the New Rotor

  • Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean both friction surfaces of the new rotor unless its instructions specifically say otherwise.
  • Install the rotor over the wheel studs.
  • Thread one lug nut on backward by hand to hold the rotor against the hub.

Step 9: Service the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the nylon brush to clean the hardware mounting ledges on the bracket.
  • Remove each guide pin by hand, one at a time, so their positions don’t get mixed up.
  • Wipe the pin clean and inspect it for rust, pitting, or bending.
  • Apply a thin coat of silicone-based brake lubricant and reinstall the pin into its original position.
  • Confirm both pins move smoothly and their rubber boots are fully seated.
  • Install the new pad-retainer clips by hand.
  • Apply only a very thin film of brake lubricant beneath the clips where they touch the bracket.
  • Keep lubricant away from the rotor and pad friction material.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

  • Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
  • Use the 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the bracket bolts to 145 Nm (107 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
  • Use the 8-inch C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor to push the piston inward slowly and evenly.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing it. Remove excess fluid with the suction syringe before it overflows.
  • Stop if the piston binds, tilts, or requires excessive force.

Step 12: Install the New Brake Pads

  • Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
  • Position the wear indicator the same way as the original pad.
  • Confirm each pad sits flat and slides freely in the new hardware.
  • Don’t force a tight pad into place. Correct the dirty or distorted hardware first.

Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
  • Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Hold the guide-pin flats with the 17mm combination wrench if necessary.
  • Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the guide-pin bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
  • Make sure the brake hose isn’t twisted and every rubber boot remains seated.

Step 14: Repeat on the Opposite Side

  • Use the same tools and procedure on the other front brake assembly.
  • Replace pads and rotors on both sides. Never replace only one front pad or rotor.

Step 15: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
  • Install each wheel and start all lug nuts by hand.
  • Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
  • Remove the jack stands and lower your Altima until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Before starting the engine, press the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm.
  • ✅ Never move the car if the pedal remains soft or sinks toward the floor.
  • ✅ Check the brake-fluid reservoir and adjust it between MIN and MAX with fresh DOT 3 fluid if needed.
  • ✅ Start the engine and press the pedal again. Verify normal pedal feel and no warning lights.
  • ✅ Check around both calipers for fluid leaks and confirm the hoses aren’t twisted.
  • ✅ Perform a slow test in a safe area before entering traffic.
  • ✅ Follow the pad manufacturer’s bedding procedure. A common street-pad routine is several moderate slowdowns with cooling time between them.
  • ✅ Avoid panic stops and holding the hot brakes at a complete stop during the first bedding cycle.
  • ✅ Recheck lug-nut torque after approximately 50-100 miles.

Nissan confirms the Altima uses self-adjusting front disc brakes and warns against contaminating painted surfaces with brake fluid. nissanusa.com)


💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$250 (parts only)

You Save: $300-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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