How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2025 Nissan Altima (Trim: Edition ONE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2013-2025 Nissan Altima (Trim: Edition ONE | Engine: Inline 4 2.0L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Altima - Front Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement
This is a very manageable brake job if you work one side at a time and use a torque wrench. You’ll remove the front caliper and bracket, replace both rotors and the complete front pad set, then bed the new brakes.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
Assumption: These instructions cover the stock front single-piston brake assembly.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Altima with jack stands.
- ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Chock both rear wheels and leave the parking brake applied.
- ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal while either front caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Hang the caliper securely. Never let it dangle from the rubber brake hose.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Don’t blow it away with compressed air.
- ⚠️ Brake cleaner and fluid damage paint. Rinse spills immediately with water.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnection isn’t required for this front brake job.
- ⚠️ The electronic parking-brake service mode isn’t required because the rear brakes aren’t being opened.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 21mm six-point socket
- 14mm six-point socket
- 19mm six-point socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated to 30 ft-lbs
- 17mm combination wrench
- 8-inch C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Two wheel chocks
- Brake caliper hanger or 16-gauge mechanic’s wire
- Soft-face dead-blow hammer
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Small nylon detailing brush
- Brake-fluid suction syringe
- Wheel-hub cleaning brush
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front ceramic brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
- Front brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Silicone-based brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 sealed bottle, only if adjustment is needed
- Disposable shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
For Sonīpat’s heat and dust, I’d use coated rotors and quality ceramic pads. Plain bargain rotors can turn orange while you’re still admiring the receipt.
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level pavement, select Park, apply the parking brake, and switch the ignition off.
- Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid reservoir. Remove a little fluid with the brake-fluid suction syringe if it’s near MAX.
- Loosen each front lug nut approximately one-quarter turn with the 21mm socket and breaker bar.
- Raise the front at the approved center lifting point, then place jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points.
- Give your Altima a gentle push before removing the wheels. It shouldn’t shift on the stands.
- Keep the old pad and one old rotor available until the new parts have been compared.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and slide one wheel beneath the rocker-panel area as a backup.
Step 2: Inspect the Brake Assembly
- Use the safety glasses and inspect the brake hose, caliper piston boot, guide-pin boots, and wheel hub.
- Check for wet brake fluid, torn rubber, severe uneven pad wear, or blue heat spots.
- If one pad is much thinner than its partner, stop and inspect the caliper and guide pins for sticking.
Step 3: Remove the Caliper
- Turn the steering wheel to point the caliper outward for easier access.
- Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to remove both caliper guide-pin bolts.
- If a guide pin turns, hold its flats with the 17mm combination wrench.
- Lift the caliper off and suspend it with the brake caliper hanger.
- Don’t disconnect the brake hose or open the bleeder screw.
Step 4: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware
- Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to lift the pads from the bracket.
- Remove the stainless pad-retainer clips from the bracket.
- Note the original position of the inner pad’s wear-indicator tab.
Step 5: Remove the Caliper Bracket
- Use the 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the two bracket-to-knuckle bolts.
- Support the bracket while removing the final bolt.
- Remove the bracket and keep its bolts clean.
Step 6: Remove the Old Rotor
- Pull the rotor straight off the wheel studs.
- If it’s rusted in place, use the dead-blow hammer to strike the rotor hat between the studs.
- Don’t strike the wheel studs, dust shield, or rotor braking surface.
- Rotate the rotor between light hammer strikes.
Step 7: Clean the Hub
- Use the wheel-hub cleaning brush to remove rust and scale from the hub face.
- Wipe the hub clean with brake cleaner and shop towels.
- The new rotor must sit completely flat. Rust trapped behind it can cause pedal vibration.
Step 8: Prepare and Install the New Rotor
- Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean both friction surfaces of the new rotor unless its instructions specifically say otherwise.
- Install the rotor over the wheel studs.
- Thread one lug nut on backward by hand to hold the rotor against the hub.
Step 9: Service the Caliper Bracket
- Use the nylon brush to clean the hardware mounting ledges on the bracket.
- Remove each guide pin by hand, one at a time, so their positions don’t get mixed up.
- Wipe the pin clean and inspect it for rust, pitting, or bending.
- Apply a thin coat of silicone-based brake lubricant and reinstall the pin into its original position.
- Confirm both pins move smoothly and their rubber boots are fully seated.
- Install the new pad-retainer clips by hand.
- Apply only a very thin film of brake lubricant beneath the clips where they touch the bracket.
- Keep lubricant away from the rotor and pad friction material.
Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket
- Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
- Use the 19mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the bracket bolts to 145 Nm (107 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Compress the Caliper Piston
- Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
- Use the 8-inch C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor to push the piston inward slowly and evenly.
- Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing it. Remove excess fluid with the suction syringe before it overflows.
- Stop if the piston binds, tilts, or requires excessive force.
Step 12: Install the New Brake Pads
- Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
- Position the wear indicator the same way as the original pad.
- Confirm each pad sits flat and slides freely in the new hardware.
- Don’t force a tight pad into place. Correct the dirty or distorted hardware first.
Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
- Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Hold the guide-pin flats with the 17mm combination wrench if necessary.
- Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the guide-pin bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
- Make sure the brake hose isn’t twisted and every rubber boot remains seated.
Step 14: Repeat on the Opposite Side
- Use the same tools and procedure on the other front brake assembly.
- Replace pads and rotors on both sides. Never replace only one front pad or rotor.
Step 15: Reinstall the Wheels
- Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor.
- Install each wheel and start all lug nuts by hand.
- Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
- Remove the jack stands and lower your Altima until the tires touch the ground.
- Use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Before starting the engine, press the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm.
- ✅ Never move the car if the pedal remains soft or sinks toward the floor.
- ✅ Check the brake-fluid reservoir and adjust it between MIN and MAX with fresh DOT 3 fluid if needed.
- ✅ Start the engine and press the pedal again. Verify normal pedal feel and no warning lights.
- ✅ Check around both calipers for fluid leaks and confirm the hoses aren’t twisted.
- ✅ Perform a slow test in a safe area before entering traffic.
- ✅ Follow the pad manufacturer’s bedding procedure. A common street-pad routine is several moderate slowdowns with cooling time between them.
- ✅ Avoid panic stops and holding the hot brakes at a complete stop during the first bedding cycle.
- ✅ Recheck lug-nut torque after approximately 50-100 miles.
Nissan confirms the Altima uses self-adjusting front disc brakes and warns against contaminating painted surfaces with brake fluid. nissanusa.com)
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$250 (parts only)
You Save: $300-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
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