🔧 Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotors Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and front brake rotors on your Accord. The pads create friction to stop the car, and the rotors are the metal discs the pads clamp onto.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.
• 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust can irritate your skin and eyes.
• 🔥 Let the brakes cool completely before starting. Rotors and calipers can stay hot after driving.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while the front calipers are removed.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for the front brake pads and rotors on your Accord.
• 🚗 The electronic parking brake affects the rear brakes, not the front brakes for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Phillips #3 screwdriver
• Impact screwdriver (specialty)
• C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Accord on level ground and shift to Park.
• 🛑 Set the parking brake before lifting the front of the car.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the car cannot roll.
• 🔩 Slightly loosen the front lug nuts before lifting the car. Do not remove them yet.
• 📘 A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• 📘 A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
• Tip: Loosen, do not remove.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Car

• Use the floor jack at the front center jacking point or approved front side jack points.
• Place jack stands under the approved front support points.
• Lower the car gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the car a light shake by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the side of the car as a backup safety measure.

Step 4: Turn the Steering for Better Access

• Turn the steering wheel left to work on the right front brake, or right to work on the left front brake.
• This gives you more room behind the caliper.

Step 5: Remove the Caliper Slide Pin Bolts

• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the two front caliper slide pin bolts.
• The slide pins allow the caliper to move smoothly as the pads wear.
• Hold the caliper steady by hand as the second bolt comes out.

Step 6: Lift Off and Support the Caliper

• Slide the caliper off the rotor by hand.
• Use a brake caliper hanger hook to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or strut area.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
• Tip: Protect the brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• If they are stuck, use a small flathead screwdriver to gently pry them out.
• Note the position of any wear indicator tab so the new pads are installed the same way.

Step 8: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it on a clean surface.
• These bolts are tight, so keep the socket fully seated.

Step 9: Remove the Rotor Retaining Screws

• Use a Phillips #3 screwdriver or impact screwdriver to remove the small rotor retaining screws.
• An impact screwdriver is a hand tool you strike with a hammer to loosen stubborn screws without stripping them.
• If the screws are rusty, tap the impact screwdriver firmly while turning counterclockwise.

Step 10: Remove the Old Rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the hub by hand.
• If it is stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a rubber mallet.
• Do not hit the wheel studs with the mallet.

Step 11: Clean the Hub Face

• Use a wire brush to clean rust and debris from the wheel hub face.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe it with shop towels.
• A clean hub helps the new rotor sit flat and prevents brake vibration.

Step 12: Install the New Rotor

• Clean both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and shop towels.
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub by hand.
• Install the rotor retaining screws with a Phillips #3 screwdriver.
• Tighten them snug only. Do not over-tighten these small screws.

Step 13: Service the Caliper Bracket

• Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the old brake pad hardware clips from the caliper bracket.
• Use a wire brush and brake cleaner spray to clean the areas where the clips sit.
• Install the new hardware clips by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips.
• Do not get lubricant on the rotor or pad friction surfaces.

Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Place the caliper bracket over the rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a C-clamp or disc brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• A piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.
• Go slowly so brake fluid does not overflow from the reservoir.

Step 16: Install the New Brake Pads

• Slide the new brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pad friction material faces the rotor.
• The pads should move smoothly in the new hardware clips.
• If they bind, remove them and check that the clips are seated correctly.

Step 17: Reinstall the Caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
• Start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 17 on the other front brake.
• Always replace front brake pads and rotors in pairs.

Step 19: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Install the wheels by hand.
• Thread the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 20: Lower the Car and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the car slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the car fully to the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 21: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before moving the car, press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
• This seats the caliper pistons against the new pads.
• The pedal may go low at first. That is normal after compressing the pistons.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level under the hood and confirm it is between MIN and MAX.
• 🛑 With the engine running, press the brake pedal and make sure it feels firm.
• 👀 Look behind both front wheels for any signs of fluid leaks.
• 🚗 Test drive slowly in a safe area before normal driving.
• 🔥 Bed in the new brakes: make 8-10 gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing a short cooling period between stops.
• ⚠️ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• 🔩 Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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