🔧 Explorer - Front Brake Pads and Rotor Replacement

This is a manageable brake job if you work carefully and complete one side at a time. You’ll remove both front calipers and brackets, replace both rotors and the complete front pad set, then properly seat the new pads.

Assumption: This procedure assumes the original Platinum front brakes, commonly using the heavy-duty 352 mm rotor package. Match the replacement parts to the rotors removed before installation.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Explorer with correctly rated jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Block both rear wheels and keep the transmission in Park.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Never let a caliper hang from its rubber brake hose.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep grease, penetrating oil and fingerprints off the pad friction material and rotor faces.
• ⚠️ The battery does not need to be disconnected, and front brake service mode is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm impact socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 150 ft-lbs
• Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• 3-ton floor jack
• 3-ton jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Caliper hanger hook
• Rubber mallet
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Stiff wire brush
• Plastic drain pan
• Clean shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set with new hardware - Qty: 1
• Front vented brake rotors - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Medium-strength removable threadlocker - Qty: 1
• DOT 4 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle, only if topping off is necessary

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park on solid, level ground and allow the brakes to cool completely.
• 📋 Place the transmission in Park, apply the parking brake and chock both rear wheels.
• 📋 Open the hood and inspect the brake fluid reservoir. Do not add fluid before compressing the pistons.
• 📋 Compare the new rotors with the old rotors for diameter, thickness, hat depth and bolt pattern.
• 📋 Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains a reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Nuts

• Use the 21mm impact socket and breaker bar to loosen each front wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
• Do not remove the nuts while the tires are supporting the vehicle.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front End

• Position the 3-ton floor jack beneath a proper front lifting point and raise your Explorer.
• Place the 3-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced front support points.
• Lower the vehicle onto the stands, then gently shake the body to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove Both Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm impact socket and ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
• Remove the wheels and slide them beneath the side rails as secondary protection.

Step 4: Inspect the Existing Brakes

• Check both pads for uneven wear, cracked friction material or wear down to the metal backing.
• Inspect the caliper boots and brake hoses for splits, leaks or swelling.
• If one pad is substantially thinner than its partner, inspect the slide pins and caliper before continuing.

Step 5: Remove the Caliper

• Use the 15mm socket and ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper away from the pads without pulling on the hose.
• Support it from the suspension with the caliper hanger hook.
• Do not disconnect the brake hose. Opening the hydraulic system would require bleeding the brakes.

Step 6: Remove the Old Pads

• Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless pad clips.
• Note the location of the wear indicator tab before discarding the old pads.

Step 7: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use the 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two bracket bolts from the steering knuckle.
• Hold the bracket as the second bolt comes out because it is heavy.
• Keep the bolts clean and inspect their threads for damage or heavy corrosion.

Step 8: Remove the Old Rotor

• Remove any disposable retaining washer from a wheel stud with the small flat-blade screwdriver. It does not need to be reused.
• Pull the rotor straight from the hub.
• If it is stuck, strike only the old rotor hat with the rubber mallet while rotating the rotor.
• Do not hit the wheel studs or wheel-bearing hub.

Step 9: Clean the Hub

• Place the plastic drain pan beneath the brake assembly.
• Use the stiff wire brush to remove rust and scale from the flat hub face.
• Spray brake cleaner onto a clean shop towel and wipe the hub clean.
• The rotor must sit completely flat. A tiny rust flake here can produce pedal pulsation later.
• Clean hubs make smooth brakes.

Step 10: Prepare and Install the New Rotor

• Spray both friction faces of the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe them with clean shop towels.
• Install the rotor over the studs and hold it flat against the hub.
• Thread one wheel nut backward onto a stud by hand to temporarily retain the rotor.

Step 11: Service the Caliper Bracket

• Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the slide pins and rubber boots one at a time.
• Wipe each pin clean with a clean shop towel.
• Apply a thin coating of silicone brake lubricant and reinstall each pin in its original position.
• A slide pin allows the caliper to move sideways so both pads clamp evenly.
• Use the stiff wire brush to clean the pad-contact ledges before installing the new stainless clips.
• Apply only a very thin film of silicone brake lubricant beneath the clips and on the clip surfaces touched by the pad ears.

Step 12: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Apply a small amount of medium-strength removable threadlocker to clean bracket-bolt threads if the replacement fastener instructions require it.
• Start both bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the 18mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the bracket bolts.
• Torque to 165 Nm (122 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Install the New Pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the bracket clips by hand.
• Position the wear indicator in the same location as the original pad.
• Confirm that both pads move smoothly without excessive looseness.
• Never apply lubricant to the pad friction surfaces or rotor faces.

Step 14: Compress the Caliper Pistons

• Check the brake fluid reservoir before compression. Remove a small amount with a clean fluid syringe if it is near overflowing.
• Place an old pad across the pistons to distribute pressure evenly.
• Use the brake caliper piston compression tool to push the pistons slowly and evenly into the caliper.
• A piston compression tool pushes the caliper pistons back to create room for thicker new pads.
• Stop if a piston tilts, binds or requires excessive force.
• Never reuse removed brake fluid or allow it to contact paint.

Step 15: Reinstall the Caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
• Start both slide bolts by hand.
• Use the 15mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the slide bolts.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Repeat Steps 4 through 15 on the opposite side.

Step 16: Reinstall the Wheels

• Remove the temporary rotor-retaining wheel nut by hand.
• Install each front wheel and start every wheel nut by hand.
• Use the 21mm impact socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
• Raise the vehicle with the 3-ton floor jack, remove the stands and lower the tires to the ground.
• Use the 21mm impact socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 149 Nm (110 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Before starting the engine, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it becomes firm. The first few strokes may travel close to the floor.
• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and adjust only with fresh DOT 4 fluid if necessary.
• ✅ Inspect both calipers and hoses for leaks, twisting or contact with the wheels.
• ✅ Start the engine and confirm that the pedal remains firm under steady pressure.
• ✅ Test the brakes at walking speed before entering normal traffic.
• ✅ Bed the pads using the pad manufacturer's instructions. A typical street procedure uses several moderate stops with cooling time between them.
• ✅ Avoid emergency-style stops and holding the hot pads against the rotors during the first 200 miles unless safety demands it.
• ✅ Recheck wheel-nut torque after 100 miles. Brakes reward patience, unlike most rusty bolts.
• ✅ If the pedal remains soft, the vehicle pulls sharply, or grinding continues, do not drive it until the problem is corrected.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $250-$550 by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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