How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2008 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2008 Honda Accord (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
🔧 Accord - Front Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the front wheels, swap the brake pads, and replace the brake rotors. Worn pads/rotors can cause grinding, vibration, longer stopping distance, and uneven braking.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🛑 Do brakes one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.
- 🛑 Don’t let the brake caliper hang by the hose; support it with a hook/strap.
- 🛑 Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- 🛑 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces; clean with brake cleaner if contaminated.
- 🛑 Watch the brake fluid level when compressing pistons; it can overflow.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs)
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 17mm wrench
- Flathead screwdriver
- C-clamp (6")
- Impact screwdriver (specialty)
- Hammer (16 oz)
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Front pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧱 Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🧱 Crack the front lug nuts loose with a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- 🧱 Pop the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (don’t remove it completely).
- 🧱 If you have an impact screwdriver (a hand tool you strike with a hammer to loosen stuck screws), set it up with a Phillips bit for rotor screws (if equipped).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheels
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car at the front center jacking point.
- Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the pinch welds or front side support points.
- Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both front wheels.
Step 2: Remove the brake caliper (pad carrier)
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room at the side you’re working on.
- Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord so the hose isn’t stressed.
Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
- Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
- Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
- Set the bracket aside.
- Reassembly spec: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the old rotor
- If your rotor has retaining screws, loosen them with an impact screwdriver (specialty) and a hammer (16 oz).
- Pull the rotor off the hub.
- If the rotor is stuck, tap around the rotor “hat” area with the hammer (16 oz) to break rust loose. Hit the hat, not the braking surface.
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner.
Step 6: Install the new rotor
- Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil.
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
- If you have retaining screws, reinstall and snug them using the impact screwdriver (specialty) (they’re just to hold the rotor during assembly).
Step 7: Service the slide pins (important)
- Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
- Wipe them clean and apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (high-temp silicone grease made for brake pins).
- Reinsert the pins and make sure they move smoothly.
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket and new hardware
- Reinstall the bracket and start the bolts by hand.
- Tighten with a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
- Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if needed).
Step 9: Install the new pads
- Place the new pads into the bracket/hardware clips by hand.
- Apply a very thin film of brake caliper slide pin grease only where the pad “ears” touch the hardware (do not get any on the pad/rotor faces).
Step 10: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper
- Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper.
- Watch the reservoir as you compress; remove excess fluid if it’s near overflowing.
- Slide the caliper over the new pads/rotor and line up the bolt holes.
- Install the two slide pin bolts with a 12mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
- If the slide pin wants to spin, hold it with a 17mm wrench while tightening the 12mm socket.
Step 11: Reinstall wheels
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads.
- ✅ Check brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap.
- ✅ Start the engine and hold the brake pedal; it should feel solid and not sink.
- ✅ Test drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
- ✅ Bed-in (break-in) new pads/rotors: do 8-10 moderate stops from ~40 to ~10 mph, allowing 30-60 seconds between stops for cooling; avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















