🔧 Highlander - Front Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement

This repair replaces the front brake pads and front brake rotors on your Highlander. Brake pads create friction to stop the vehicle, and rotors are the metal discs the pads clamp onto.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands. Jack stands are fixed supports that safely hold the vehicle after lifting.
• ⚠️ Front brake parts can be hot after driving. Let them cool fully before touching them.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner instead.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Support the brake caliper with a hanger or bungee cord so the rubber brake hose is not stretched.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this front brake job.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Disc brake spreader tool (specialty)
• Flat blade screwdriver medium
• Wire brush
• Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
• Floor jack 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Front brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Front brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1-2 cans

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Highlander on level ground and shift to Park.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that stop the vehicle from rolling.
• 🛞 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle. Do not remove them yet.
• 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper pistons.
• 🧼 Keep grease and fingerprints off the pad friction material and rotor braking surface.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each front lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Tip: Loosen, do not remove yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack 3-ton minimum at the front center lifting point.
• Place jack stands 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching the lift point as backup, but do not rely on it alone.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.
• Work on one side at a time so the other side can be used as a visual reference.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Look at the brake hose, caliper, pads, rotor, and hardware before taking anything apart.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean heavy dust from the area.

Step 5: Remove the Caliper Slide Pin Bolts

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• If a slide pin spins, hold the pin area steady with your hand or a suitable wrench while removing the bolt.

Step 6: Lift Off and Support the Caliper

• Use a flat blade screwdriver medium to gently wiggle the caliper loose if it is tight.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor.
• Hang it from the strut spring using a brake caliper hanger.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use a flat blade screwdriver medium only if the pads are stuck.
• Note the position of any wear indicator tab before removing the pads.

Step 8: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• The caliper bracket is the metal frame that holds the brake pads.
• Remove the bracket and set it on a clean surface.

Step 9: Remove the Old Rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub by hand.
• If it is stuck from rust, tap the rotor hat area gently with a suitable hand tool, avoiding the wheel studs.
• Use brake cleaner spray to control dust while working.

Step 10: Clean the Wheel Hub

• Use a wire brush to clean rust and debris from the hub face.
• The hub face is the flat surface the rotor sits against.
• Wipe the area with brake cleaner spray and shop towels.
• Tip: A clean hub prevents brake vibration.

Step 11: Clean and Install the New Rotor

• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean both sides of the new rotor.
• Slide the new rotor onto the wheel studs.
• Thread one lug nut on by hand using the 21mm lug nut socket to hold the rotor flat while you work.

Step 12: Service the Caliper Bracket Hardware

• Use a flat blade screwdriver medium to remove the old pad clips from the caliper bracket.
• Pad clips are thin metal guides that help the pads slide smoothly.
• Use a wire brush to clean the bracket contact areas.
• Install the new clips from the front brake pad hardware kit by hand.

Step 13: Lubricate the Pad Contact Points

• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease to the pad clip areas where the pad ears touch.
• Do not put grease on the rotor surface or pad friction material.
• Use shop towels to wipe away extra grease.

Step 14: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Install the New Brake Pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pad ears sit fully inside the new hardware clips.
• The pads should move smoothly but should not rattle loosely.

Step 16: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a C-clamp 6-inch or disc brake spreader tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• A caliper piston is the round part that pushes the brake pad during braking.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid level under the hood so it does not overflow.

Step 17: Reinstall the Caliper

• Remove the brake caliper hanger and place the caliper over the new pads.
• Start both slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the slide pin bolts.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Repeat on the Other Front Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 17 on the other front brake assembly.
• Use the same tools and the same torque specs.
• Always replace front brake pads and rotors as a pair.

Step 19: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding each rotor using the 21mm lug nut socket.
• Install each wheel onto the studs.
• Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
• Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive.

Step 20: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack 3-ton minimum to lift slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Highlander until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 21: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
• The pedal may go low at first. Keep pumping until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.
• ✅ Start your Highlander and press the brake pedal again to confirm it feels firm.
• ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Listen for grinding, scraping, clicking, or pulling to one side.
• ✅ Bed in the new brakes by making several gentle stops from moderate speed, allowing cooling time between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless it is an emergency.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.