How to Replace Front Ball Joints on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: Lariat)
Step-by-step upper control arm and lower ball joint guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Front Ball Joints on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: Lariat)
Step-by-step upper control arm and lower ball joint guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 F-150 - Front Ball Joint Replacement
Assumption: This guide covers the front upper ball joint/control arm and front lower ball joint on your F-150 4WD.
The upper ball joint is serviced as part of the upper control arm assembly on your F-150. The lower ball joint is pressed into the lower control arm, so it requires a ball joint press, which is a large clamp-style tool used to push the joint in and out safely.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your F-150 with jack stands before working under it. Never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ The front suspension is heavy. Keep hands clear when separating ball joints.
- ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on aluminum suspension parts. Damage can occur.
- ⚠️ Replace ball joints in pairs left and right if wear is present on both sides.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after upper control arm replacement.
- ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is not normally required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 21mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 24mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 21mm wrench
- 22mm wrench
- 24mm wrench
- Pry bar set
- Needle-nose pliers
- Ball joint separator (specialty)
- Ball joint press kit (specialty)
- Pickle fork (specialty)
- Hammer 3 lb
- Paint marker
- Wire brush
- Penetrating oil
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front upper control arm with ball joint - Left: Qty: 1
- Front upper control arm with ball joint - Right: Qty: 1
- Front lower ball joint - Left: Qty: 1
- Front lower ball joint - Right: Qty: 1
- Upper ball joint pinch/castle nut hardware - Qty: 2
- Lower ball joint nut hardware - Qty: 2
- Cotter pins - Qty: 2
- Chassis grease - Qty: 1 tube
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your F-150 on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the current upper control arm bolt positions. This helps you drive safely to the alignment shop.
- 🛞 Loosen the front lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
- 💡 Spray penetrating oil on the ball joint nuts and control arm bolts before starting.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and Secure the Front End
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front wheel lug nuts one turn.
- Use a floor jack under the front frame lift point to raise the front of your F-150.
- Place jack stands under the frame rails.
- Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts and remove both front wheels.
- Shake the truck lightly to verify stability.
Step 2: Support the Lower Control Arm
- Use the floor jack to lightly support the lower control arm near the outer end.
- Do not lift the truck off the jack stand. Just support the suspension weight.
- This prevents the suspension from dropping suddenly when the ball joint is separated.
Step 3: Remove the Upper Ball Joint Nut
- Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin if equipped.
- Use a 21mm wrench or 21mm socket to remove the upper ball joint nut.
- If the stud spins, apply upward pressure with a pry bar while loosening the nut.
Step 4: Separate the Upper Ball Joint
- Use a ball joint separator to separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.
- A steering knuckle is the metal part that holds the wheel hub and connects to the suspension arms.
- Do not strike the aluminum control arm directly with a hammer.
- Move the knuckle slightly outward after the joint separates.
Step 5: Remove the Upper Control Arm
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the upper control arm mounting bolts and washers.
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the upper control arm mounting bolts.
- Remove the upper control arm from the truck.
- Install the new upper control arm in the same position as your paint marks.
- Snug the mounting bolts with an 18mm socket, but do not fully torque them yet.
Step 6: Connect the New Upper Ball Joint
- Guide the new upper ball joint stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket to install the new upper ball joint nut.
- Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs), then continue tightening only enough to line up the cotter pin hole if equipped.
- Use needle-nose pliers to install a new cotter pin if equipped.
Step 7: Remove the Lower Ball Joint Nut
- Keep the lower control arm supported with the floor jack.
- Use needle-nose pliers to remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint if equipped.
- Use a 24mm socket or 24mm wrench to loosen and remove the lower ball joint nut.
Step 8: Separate the Lower Ball Joint from the Knuckle
- Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle.
- A pickle fork is a wedge-shaped tool that splits the joint apart, but it usually damages the old boot.
- Lower the floor jack slowly just enough to free the knuckle from the lower ball joint stud.
- Support the knuckle so the brake hose is not stretched.
Step 9: Press Out the Lower Ball Joint
- Use a wire brush to clean dirt and rust around the lower ball joint.
- Use the ball joint press kit with the correct receiving cup and press adapter.
- Press the old lower ball joint out of the lower control arm.
- Keep the press straight. If it tilts, stop and reset it.
- Straight pressure prevents control arm damage.
Step 10: Press In the New Lower Ball Joint
- Use the wire brush to clean the lower control arm bore.
- Position the new lower ball joint squarely in the control arm.
- Use the ball joint press kit to press the new ball joint fully into place.
- Install any supplied snap ring using needle-nose pliers if your replacement joint uses one.
- If the joint has a grease fitting, use a chassis grease tube with the appropriate grease gun after installation.
Step 11: Reconnect the Lower Ball Joint
- Use the floor jack to raise the lower control arm slowly until the lower ball joint stud enters the steering knuckle.
- Install the new lower ball joint nut by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 24mm socket to tighten the lower ball joint nut.
- Torque to 150 Nm (111 ft-lbs), then continue tightening only enough to align the cotter pin hole if equipped.
- Use needle-nose pliers to install a new cotter pin if equipped.
Step 12: Final Torque the Upper Control Arm at Ride Height
- Use the floor jack under the lower control arm to raise the suspension until it sits near normal ride height.
- Ride height means the suspension is sitting about where it normally sits with the truck on the ground.
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to tighten the upper control arm mounting bolts.
- Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
- This prevents twisting and premature wear of the control arm bushings.
Step 13: Reinstall the Wheels
- Place the wheels back on the hubs by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Raise the truck slightly with the floor jack and remove the jack stands.
- Lower the truck to the ground.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce the front of your F-150 gently and listen for clunks.
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and check for binding or rubbing.
- ✅ Test drive slowly first, then recheck for loose hardware.
- ✅ Schedule a professional front wheel alignment immediately after the repair.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
- ✅ If the truck pulls, the steering wheel is crooked, or tires squeal, do not delay the alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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