🔧 Highlander - Engine Mount Replacement

This repair replaces the mounts that hold the engine and transaxle steady in your Highlander. Bad mounts can cause vibration, clunking, or a heavy thump when shifting between Reverse and Drive.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

Assumption: This covers replacing the right engine mount, left transaxle mount, front engine mount, and rear engine mount as a set.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. The engine can shift suddenly if it is not supported.
• ⚠️ Never work under your Highlander with only a floor jack holding it up. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before moving wiring brackets or working near starter wiring.
• ⚠️ Let the engine and exhaust cool fully before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time when possible. This helps keep the engine aligned.
• ⚠️ A torque wrench is required. It tightens bolts to the correct measured tightness.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 12mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3-inch extension
• 6-inch extension
• 12-inch extension
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Needle nose pliers
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity (specialty)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Shop light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transaxle mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts - Qty: As needed
• Transaxle mount bolts - Qty: As needed
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Highlander on level ground.
• Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front of your Highlander.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front support points.
• Use an engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity across the engine bay if available. An engine support bar holds the engine from above while mounts are removed.
• If using a floor jack to help support the engine, place a wood block 2x6-inch between the jack and oil pan.
• Only support the engine. Do not lift it hard.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove Intake Parts For Access

• Use your hands to pull the plastic engine cover straight up.
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the air intake tube clamps.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove air box or intake duct bolts blocking the passenger-side mount.
• Use needle nose pliers to release small hose clamps if a hose must be moved.
• Use a flat blade screwdriver to gently help loosen stuck rubber intake ducts.
• Take photos before moving hoses.

Step 2: Remove The Lower Splash Shields

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic splash shield clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the splash shield bolts.
• Lower the shields and set them aside.

Step 3: Support The Engine

• Install the engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity across the top of the engine bay.
• Attach the support hooks to the factory engine lift points.
• Turn the support bar adjuster until the chain is lightly tight.
• Place the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum with a wood block 2x6-inch under the engine oil pan as backup support.
• Raise the jack only until the wood touches the oil pan.
• Do not crush or dent the oil pan.

Step 4: Replace The Right Engine Mount

• Use a shop light to locate the right mount on the passenger side of the engine bay.
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove any brackets blocking the mount.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the mount through-bolt. A breaker bar is a long handle that gives extra leverage on tight bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the engine slightly until the old mount comes out easily.
• Install the new right engine mount in the same direction as the old mount.
• Start all bolts by hand before using tools. This prevents cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten mount-to-body bolts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten mount-to-engine bracket bolts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten the mount through-bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace The Left Transaxle Mount

• Use a shop light to locate the left transaxle mount on the driver side. The transaxle is the transmission and front differential assembly.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove small wiring brackets from the work area.
• Use a 17mm socket, 12-inch extension, and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to loosen the mount through-bolt.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove mount bracket bolts from the transaxle if needed.
• Use the engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity or floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to slightly shift the engine/transaxle until the mount is free.
• Install the new left transaxle mount.
• Start all bolts by hand first.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten mount-to-body bolts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten transaxle bracket bolts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten the through-bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace The Front Engine Mount

• Move underneath the front of your Highlander and use a shop light to find the front mount near the radiator side of the subframe.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front mount through-bolt.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-subframe bolts.
• Use a universal joint socket adapter if the socket needs to work at an angle. A universal joint lets the socket bend slightly to reach awkward bolts.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to slightly adjust engine height until the mount slides out.
• Install the new front engine mount.
• Start all bolts by hand first.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten mount-to-subframe bolts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten the through-bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace The Rear Engine Mount

• Use a shop light to locate the rear mount at the firewall side of the engine/transaxle assembly.
• Use a 17mm socket, 6-inch extension, and universal joint socket adapter to loosen the rear mount through-bolt.
• Use a 17mm socket and 12-inch extension to remove the mount-to-subframe bolts.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove a heat shield or small bracket if it blocks access.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to make tiny height adjustments until the rear mount comes out.
• Install the new rear engine mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten rear mount-to-subframe bolts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten the through-bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall Removed Parts

• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to reinstall any removed mount braces.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb to tighten medium support bracket bolts to Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the air box and intake duct fasteners.
• Use a 10mm socket to tighten the intake tube clamps snugly.
• Use your hands to push the plastic engine cover back onto its rubber mounts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool and your hands to reinstall splash shield clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall splash shield bolts.

Step 9: Lower Your Highlander And Reconnect Battery

• Confirm every mount bolt is torqued before removing support.
• Remove the engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Highlander slowly to the ground.
• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• Listen for rattles, knocking, or parts touching the body.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Neutral, then Drive.
• The engine should move slightly, not jump or slam.
• Take a short, gentle test drive.
• After the drive, look under the hood and under the vehicle for anything loose or rubbing.
• If idle feels odd after battery disconnect, let the engine idle with all accessories off for several minutes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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