🔧 Escape - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Escape involves supporting the engine safely, removing the worn mount, and installing a new mount so the engine sits correctly again. Bad mounts can cause vibration, clunking, harsh shifting feel, or excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. The mount holds engine weight.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan to spread the load and avoid cracking the pan.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the plastic covers, hoses, turbo piping, or exhaust parts.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool before starting. The turbocharger and exhaust can stay hot for a long time.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter wiring, ground straps, or tight engine-bay areas.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive extension set
• 1/2-inch drive extension set
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Support the engine from below using the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch minimum placed flat under the oil pan.
• A torque strut mount is the lower mount that controls engine rocking when you accelerate or shift.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Engine Appearance Cover

• Use your hands to lift the engine appearance cover straight upward from its rubber grommets.
• Set the cover aside where it will not be stepped on.
• Pull upward evenly.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
• Move the negative cable away from the battery post so it cannot spring back and touch.

Step 3: Remove Upper Access Items Near the Right Engine Mount

• Use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the air intake hose clamp.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to release any plastic retaining clips holding the intake duct.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove air cleaner box fasteners if more room is needed.
• Lift the intake duct and air cleaner box out carefully.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place the wood block 2x6-inch minimum on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the flat, strongest area of the oil pan.
• Raise the jack just until it touches and lightly supports the engine.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Support, do not jack upward hard.

Step 5: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-body nuts and bolts.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• If a bolt feels tight, use a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to break it loose slowly.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the mount comes out without forcing it.
• Install the new right engine mount in the same position as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the mount-to-body fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• Keep the engine and transmission supported with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch minimum.
• Use a 10mm socket to move small brackets, harness retainers, or battery tray fasteners if they block access.
• Use a 13mm socket and 15mm socket to remove the battery tray if additional clearance is needed.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the transmission mount fasteners.
• Adjust the jack height slightly until the old mount slides out freely.
• Install the new left transmission mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the transmission mount fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket, 13mm socket, and 15mm socket to reinstall any removed brackets, battery tray pieces, or retainers.

Step 7: Replace the Lower Torque Strut Mount

• Move under the front of your Escape while it is safely supported on jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the lower splash shield fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, or 21mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the lower torque strut mount bolts.
• Use a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive if the bolts are stubborn.
• Remove the old lower torque strut mount.
• Install the new lower torque strut mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Start both bolts by hand first.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the lower torque strut mount bolts to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall Removed Components

• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the air cleaner box and intake duct if removed.
• Use an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver to tighten the air intake hose clamp snugly.
• Push the engine appearance cover back down onto its rubber grommets by hand.

Step 9: Remove Engine Support and Reconnect Battery

• Slowly lower the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the engine rests fully on the new mounts.
• Remove the wood block 2x6-inch minimum and jack from under the vehicle.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the terminal until it does not rotate by hand.

Step 10: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift your Escape slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle in Park.
• Listen for clunks, rattles, or rubbing noises.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and feel for abnormal movement.
• Take a short, gentle test drive around the block.
• Recheck the mount areas after the test drive to confirm all fasteners are still seated and nothing is contacting the body.
• If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock, one-touch windows if needed, and radio presets if lost.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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