🔧 RAV4 - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your RAV4 means supporting the hybrid engine/transaxle assembly, removing the worn mount, and installing the new mount without stressing hoses, wiring, or the hybrid drivetrain. Engine mounts hold the powertrain in place and reduce vibration, clunking, and movement during acceleration.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Your RAV4 is a hybrid. Do not touch orange high-voltage cables or hybrid battery components.
• ⚠️ This job requires supporting the engine/transaxle from underneath. Never place your body under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable before working near engine wiring or brackets.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the floor jack and engine/transaxle to spread the load and prevent damage.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time. Removing multiple mounts together can let the powertrain shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Some fasteners are torque-to-yield-style on Toyota applications; replace mount bolts/nuts if supplied with the new mount or if damaged/corroded.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 3-inch extension
• 6-inch extension
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Rubber wheel chocks
• Engine support wood block 2x6-inch
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transaxle mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine torque mount - Qty: 1
• Front lower engine torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolt/nut kit - Qty: 1
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your RAV4 on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place rubber wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Open the hood and use a 10mm socket to disconnect the 12V battery negative cable. The 12V battery powers normal vehicle electronics, not the orange high-voltage system.
• ⏱️ Wait at least 5 minutes after disconnecting the 12V battery before unplugging or moving any engine-bay electrical connectors.
• 📌 Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount bracket before removal. This helps the new mount line up correctly.
• 🛠️ A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured amount so they are not too loose or overtightened.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Front

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise the front of your RAV4.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side pinch weld lift points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.
• Never trust the jack alone.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the splash shield bolts.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• Keep the clips grouped together so they go back in the same places.

Step 3: Support the Engine/Transaxle Assembly

• Place the engine support wood block 2x6-inch on the floor jack saddle.
• Position the floor jack under a solid, flat area of the engine oil pan or transaxle case.
• Raise the jack only until the wood block lightly contacts the engine/transaxle.
• Do not lift the vehicle with the engine support jack. It should only hold the powertrain weight.
• Light support only, not lifting.

Step 4: Replace the Right-Side Engine Mount

• Use a 10mm socket to move any small brackets or wiring retainers attached near the right-side mount.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount bracket position before loosening bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the through-bolt and mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket to remove the mount bracket bolts, depending on bolt head size fitted.
• Raise or lower the floor jack very slightly to remove pressure from the mount bolts.
• Remove the old right-side engine mount.
• Install the new right-side engine mount by hand-starting all bolts before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten smaller mount bracket bolts to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench to tighten larger mount fasteners to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any wiring retainers or small brackets.

Step 5: Replace the Left-Side Transaxle Mount

• Move the floor jack and wood block so it lightly supports the transaxle side of the powertrain.
• Use a paint marker to mark the left-side transaxle mount position.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-body and mount-to-bracket bolts.
• Adjust the floor jack slightly until the bolts slide out without force.
• Remove the old left-side transaxle mount.
• Install the new mount and hand-start all bolts first.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten mount-to-body bolts to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench to tighten mount through-bolt/nut to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Hand-start bolts to avoid cross-threading.

Step 6: Replace the Rear Engine Torque Mount

• The rear torque mount is the lower mount that controls front-to-back engine rocking during acceleration.
• Use a floor jack with the wood block to lightly support the powertrain from below.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the rear torque mount bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the bolt at the subframe side.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the bolt at the engine/transaxle side.
• Remove the rear torque mount from the vehicle.
• Install the new rear torque mount and insert both bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten rear torque mount bolts to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Front Lower Engine Torque Mount

• Use the floor jack and wood block to keep light support under the powertrain.
• Use a paint marker to mark the front lower mount position.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the front lower torque mount bolts.
• Remove the mount-to-subframe bolt with the 17mm or 19mm socket.
• Remove the mount-to-engine/transaxle bolt with the 17mm or 19mm socket.
• Remove the old front lower torque mount.
• Install the new front lower torque mount and hand-start both bolts.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the front lower torque mount bolts to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Settle the Powertrain Before Final Check

• Use the floor jack to raise and lower the engine/transaxle less than 1/2 inch to let the mounts settle naturally.
• Check that all mount bolts are seated flat and that no wiring, hoses, or orange hybrid cables are pinched.
• Use the torque wrench to recheck each mount fastener at its listed torque.
• Mounts must sit relaxed, not twisted.

Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Lift the lower splash shield back into position by hand.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the splash shield bolts snugly.
• Use the trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic clips.
• Tighten splash shield bolts to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 10: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

• Use the floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the 12V battery negative cable.
• Tighten the battery terminal nut to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your RAV4 and let it idle in Park. Watch for unusual vibration, knocking, or warning lights.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. The engine should not jump or clunk heavily.
• ✅ Take a short, gentle test drive around the block.
• ✅ Recheck underneath for loose splash shield clips or contact between the mount brackets and nearby parts.
• ✅ Some idle relearn may happen after the 12V battery is disconnected. Let the vehicle idle normally for a few minutes with accessories off.
• ✅ If warning lights stay on after reconnecting the battery, a scan tool check may be needed to clear stored low-voltage codes.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$900 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.