🔧 1500 - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your 1500 involves safely supporting the 5.7L HEMI engine, removing the worn mounts, and installing new mounts in the same positions. Bad engine mounts can cause clunks, vibration, excessive engine movement, or a thump when shifting from Park to Drive.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never place any part of your body under the engine while it is only supported by a jack.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands under the frame before working underneath your 1500.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a wide wood block under the oil pan to spread the load and prevent oil pan damage.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine more than needed; too much movement can stress exhaust, wiring, hoses, fan shroud, and drivetrain parts.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, wiring, or engine mount brackets.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool engine. Exhaust manifolds and pipes can cause serious burns.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6 minimum
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 16mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 3/8-inch extension set
• 1/2-inch extension set
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener set - Qty: 1
• Underbody shield clips - Qty: As needed

Replace in pairs: Engine mounts should be replaced left and right together to keep the engine sitting evenly.

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your 1500 on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and position it away from the battery post.
• A breaker bar is a longer handle used to loosen tight bolts more safely than a small ratchet.
• A universal joint socket adapter lets the socket work at an angle in tight spaces.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Truck

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your 1500 at a safe front frame/crossmember lift point.
• Place jack stands under the frame rails on both sides.
• Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands and shake the truck lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine later.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Shields

• Put on safety glasses and work gloves.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or flathead screwdriver to remove plastic clips from the lower splash shield, if equipped.
• Use a 10mm socket or 13mm socket to remove any shield bolts.
• Set the shield and clips aside in order.
• Take photos before removing parts.

Step 3: Locate the Engine Mounts

• Use a work light if available and look at both sides of the engine near the frame.
• The engine mounts sit between the engine bracket and the frame-side mounting bracket.
• Use a paint marker to mark the installed position of each mount and bracket before loosening bolts.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place the wood block 2x6 minimum on the saddle of the floor jack.
• Position the wood block under the flat, strong area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the floor jack only until the wood block lightly contacts the oil pan.
• Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.
• Support, do not force-lift.

Step 5: Loosen the Engine Mount Through-Bolts

• Use a 18mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and universal joint socket adapter as needed to loosen the through-bolt on one engine mount.
• Use a 1/2-inch breaker bar if the bolt is tight.
• Repeat on the opposite side using the 18mm socket.
• Do not remove both mounts fully yet. Loosening both sides helps the engine move smoothly when lifted slightly.

Step 6: Remove the First Engine Mount Fasteners

• Choose one side to replace first.
• Use a 15mm socket, 16mm socket, or 18mm socket depending on fastener location to remove the mount-to-bracket bolts.
• Use the 3/8-inch extension set or 1/2-inch extension set for bolts hidden behind the bracket.
• Keep bolts grouped by side so they go back in the same locations.

Step 7: Lift the Engine Slightly

• Use the floor jack to raise the engine very slowly.
• Lift only enough to remove tension from the engine mount.
• Watch the fan shroud, radiator hoses, exhaust, and wiring while lifting.
• Stop immediately if anything stretches, binds, or contacts the body.

Step 8: Remove the First Engine Mount

• Use the 18mm socket to remove the through-bolt completely from the first mount.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch gently if the mount is stuck in the bracket.
• Remove the mount from the vehicle.
• Compare the old mount to the new engine mount before installation.

Step 9: Install the First New Engine Mount

• Position the new engine mount in the same orientation as the old mount.
• Install the through-bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 15mm socket, 16mm socket, or 18mm socket to loosely install the remaining mount bolts by hand.
• Do not fully tighten yet. Leave the fasteners slightly loose until both mounts are installed.

Step 10: Replace the Opposite Engine Mount

• Move to the opposite side of the engine.
• Use the 18mm socket to remove the through-bolt.
• Use the 15mm socket, 16mm socket, or 18mm socket to remove the mount-to-bracket bolts.
• Use the floor jack to adjust engine height slightly as needed.
• Remove the old mount and install the new engine mount in the same position.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.

Step 11: Lower the Engine Onto the New Mounts

• Use the floor jack to lower the engine slowly until both mounts sit naturally in their brackets.
• Make sure the bolts slide through cleanly without forcing them.
• If a bolt does not line up, use the floor jack to slightly raise or lower the engine until it aligns.
• Do not use bolts to pull the engine into position.

Step 12: Tighten the Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use the torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct socket to tighten the engine mount bolts.
• Torque engine mount through-bolts to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).
• Torque mount-to-frame bracket bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).
• If your replacement mount instructions specify different torque values, follow the part manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 13: Reinstall the Lower Shields

• Use a 10mm socket or 13mm socket to reinstall the lower shield bolts.
• Use the trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall plastic clips.
• Tighten small shield bolts snug only; do not over-tighten plastic or thin shield hardware.

Step 14: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the terminal until it does not rotate by hand.

Step 15: Lower the Truck

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your 1500 slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the truck slowly to the ground with the floor jack.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while watching for abnormal movement.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and listen for clunks.
• Take a short, gentle test drive and check that vibration or thumping is improved.
• After the test drive, recheck the mount area for loose hardware or parts touching the exhaust or frame.
• If the battery was disconnected, reset clock, radio presets, and one-touch window functions if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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