🔧 Ranger - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Ranger means safely supporting the 2.3L turbo engine, removing the worn rubber-and-metal mounts, and installing new mounts in the correct position. Engine mounts hold the engine steady and reduce vibration, so bad mounts can cause clunks, shaking, or harsh movement when shifting from Park to Drive.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

Assumption: This procedure covers the left and right engine mounts on your Ranger with stock 4WD equipment.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands every time.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing either mount. If unsupported, it can drop and damage wiring, hoses, the radiator fan, exhaust, or your hands.
• ⚠️ Let the engine, turbocharger, and exhaust cool fully before starting. Turbo parts can stay hot long after shutdown.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter cable, alternator wiring, or engine harness.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time. Do not remove both engine mounts together.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a wide wood block under the oil pan. The wood spreads the load so the pan is not dented.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
• 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension
• 1/2-inch drive universal joint
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb
• 18mm wrench
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 12-inch minimum length
• Paint marker
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount nuts and bolts kit - Qty: 1
• Front skid plate bolts - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Ranger on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that stop the truck from rolling.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move it away from the battery post.
• Lift the front of the truck with a 3-ton floor jack and place it securely on 3-ton jack stands at the front frame support points.
• Use a floor jack with a wood block under the engine oil pan to gently support the engine. Do not lift the truck by the oil pan.
• Mark the original mount positions with a paint marker before removal. This helps align the new mounts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove Lower Shields

• Put on safety glasses and work gloves.
• If equipped, use a 13mm socket to remove the front skid plate bolts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or flat blade screwdriver to remove any plastic shield clips.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.
• Keep bolts grouped by location.

Step 2: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block on the saddle of the 3-ton floor jack.
• Position the wood block under the flat reinforced area of the engine oil pan.
• Slowly raise the jack until the wood just contacts the oil pan and lightly supports the engine.
• Do not lift the engine yet. The jack is only holding the engine’s weight.

Step 3: Mark Mount Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark where each engine mount sits against the frame bracket and engine bracket.
• Mark the left and right mounts separately so you do not mix up the orientation.
• Photos help during reassembly.

Step 4: Remove the Right Engine Mount Fasteners

• Work on one side only. Start with the right engine mount.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to loosen the mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use an 18mm wrench if space is tight around the bracket.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket, as fitted, to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Do not fully remove all fasteners until the engine is supported and slightly unloaded.

Step 5: Raise the Engine Slightly

• Use the floor jack to raise the engine very slowly, about 1/4 inch at a time.
• Watch the radiator fan, hoses, wiring, turbo plumbing, and exhaust for stretching or contact.
• Stop as soon as the right mount becomes loose enough to remove.
• Do not raise the engine more than needed.

Step 6: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use an 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the loosened mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket to remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Remove the right engine mount from the bracket area.
• If the mount sticks, use a flat blade screwdriver to gently pry it free. Do not pry against aluminum engine parts.

Step 7: Install the New Right Engine Mount

• Compare the new right engine mount with the old mount before installation.
• Set the new right mount into the same position using your paint marks as a guide.
• Start all nuts and bolts by hand first. This prevents cross-threading, which means damaging the threads by forcing the bolt in crooked.
• Use an 18mm socket to snug the mount-to-frame nuts, but do not fully tighten yet.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket to snug the mount-to-engine bracket bolts, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 8: Seat and Torque the Right Engine Mount

• Slowly lower the floor jack until the engine weight rests naturally on the new mount.
• Check that the mount studs are centered in the bracket holes.
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket to tighten the engine mount fasteners.
• Torque mount-to-frame nuts to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs)
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Remove the Left Engine Mount Fasteners

• Move to the left engine mount while keeping the engine lightly supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and extension to loosen the mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive universal joint if the socket angle is tight. A universal joint lets the socket turn at an angle.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.

Step 10: Raise the Engine Slightly for Left Mount Removal

• Use the floor jack to raise the engine slowly, about 1/4 inch at a time.
• Watch the intake tubes, wiring harnesses, exhaust, and fan shroud as the engine moves.
• Stop when the left mount has enough clearance to come out.

Step 11: Remove the Left Engine Mount

• Use an 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket to remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Lift the left engine mount out of the bracket area.
• Use a flat blade screwdriver only for gentle movement if the mount is stuck.

Step 12: Install the New Left Engine Mount

• Compare the new left mount to the removed mount and confirm the shape and stud direction match.
• Place the new left mount into the bracket using your paint marks.
• Start all bolts and nuts by hand before using tools.
• Use an 18mm socket to snug the mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket to snug the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.

Step 13: Seat and Torque the Left Engine Mount

• Slowly lower the floor jack until the engine rests on both mounts.
• Rock the engine gently by hand from above to let the mounts settle.
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket to tighten the left mount fasteners.
• Torque mount-to-frame nuts to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs)
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket bolts to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Reinstall Lower Shields

• Use a trim clip removal tool or flat blade screwdriver to reinstall any plastic clips.
• Use a 13mm socket to reinstall the skid plate bolts if equipped.
• Torque skid plate bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 15: Reconnect the Battery and Lower the Truck

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Torque battery terminal nut to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs)
• Use the floor jack to raise the truck slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the truck to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Ranger and let it idle while you watch the engine. It should move smoothly without heavy shaking.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. Listen for clunks and feel for harsh movement.
• Check under the truck for anything loose, rubbing, or contacting the fan, exhaust, or wiring.
• Drive slowly at first. Light acceleration and braking should feel smoother if the mounts were worn.
• After the first short drive, recheck the mount area visually with a flashlight.
• If a vibration is worse than before, stop driving and recheck mount seating and fastener tightness.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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