🔧 Civic - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Civic restores proper engine support and reduces vibration, clunking, and movement when shifting from Park to Drive or accelerating. The mounts hold the engine and transmission in place, so the engine must be safely supported before any mount is removed.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This guide covers the main engine/transmission mount set on your Civic with the 2.0L engine.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never remove an engine mount unless the engine/transmission is supported with a jack and wood block.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands only on approved lift points. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, battery tray, or wiring.
• ⚠️ Do not lift directly on the aluminum oil pan without a wide wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.
• ⚠️ If a mount bolt fights you, stop and slightly raise/lower the engine with the jack to remove tension.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wood block at least 12 inches long
• Wheel chocks
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
• Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Civic on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely before working near the exhaust, radiator fan area, or engine bay.
• Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to a specific tightness so they are not too loose or too tight.
• A breaker bar is a long-handled tool used to loosen tight bolts without damaging a ratchet.
• Use a paint marker to mark mount/bracket positions before removal. This helps line everything back up.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise the front of your Civic.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved front side lift points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby because you will use it to support the engine.
• Shake gently to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.

Step 3: Support the Engine Safely

• Place the wood block at least 12 inches long on top of the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under a solid, flat area of the engine/transmission assembly.
• Slowly raise the jack until the wood block lightly supports the engine.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Support only; do not jack hard.

Step 4: Mark the Mount Positions

• Use a paint marker to trace around each mount bracket where it meets the body or subframe.
• Mark the right-side engine mount, left-side transmission mount, and rear lower torque mount before loosening bolts.
• This gives you a visual guide during reassembly.

Step 5: Replace the Right-Side Engine Mount

• The right-side engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay near the coolant reservoir area.
• Use a 10mm socket to move small brackets or harness retainers out of the way if needed.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3-inch socket extension to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the larger mount-to-body bolts.
• Slightly raise or lower the engine with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum until the bolts slide out easily.
• Remove the old right-side engine mount from the vehicle.
• Set the new right-side engine mount in place and hand-start all bolts first.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the mount-to-body bolts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Left-Side Transmission Mount

• The left-side transmission mount is under the battery tray area on the driver side.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down bracket.
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative and positive battery terminals, then lift the battery out.
• Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the battery tray fasteners.
• Lift the battery tray out to access the transmission mount.
• Use a 14mm socket and 6-inch socket extension to loosen the mount bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the larger mount bolts.
• Adjust engine/transmission height slightly using the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum until the bolts are not binding.
• Remove the old left-side transmission mount.
• Install the new left-side transmission mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten larger mount bolts to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the battery tray using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Reinstall the battery and hold-down using a 10mm socket.
• Do not reconnect the negative battery cable yet.

Step 7: Replace the Rear Lower Torque Mount

• The rear lower torque mount is accessed from underneath and connects the engine/transmission to the subframe.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket with a 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount bracket bolts, depending on bolt size fitted.
• If the bolt is tight from engine pressure, raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum.
• Remove the old rear lower torque mount.
• Install the new rear lower torque mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Hand-start all bolts before tightening.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the through-bolt to Torque to 93 Nm (69 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Recheck Alignment and Final Tightening

• Use the paint marker marks to confirm the mounts sit in the original positions.
• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to slightly relax the engine if any mount looks twisted or pulled.
• Use the torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to recheck all accessible mount fasteners.
• Make sure no wiring harnesses, hoses, or brackets are trapped under a mount or battery tray.

Step 9: Reinstall the Splash Shield

• Raise the lower splash shield into position.
• Use the trim clip removal tool or your hands to install the plastic splash shield clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall splash shield bolts.
• Tighten small splash shield bolts snugly only; do not overtighten plastic parts.

Step 10: Reconnect Battery and Lower the Vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the positive battery terminal if removed.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery terminal.
• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Civic fully to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes while watching for unusual vibration or movement.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse and Drive. The engine should move only slightly.
• Take a short, gentle test drive and listen for clunks during acceleration, braking, and turning.
• After the test drive, recheck the visible mount bolts with a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs.
• If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock, radio presets, and auto window function if needed.
• To relearn the driver window auto function, hold the window switch down fully, then up fully, for a few seconds each direction.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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