🔧 Kicks - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Kicks means supporting the engine, removing the worn rubber-and-metal mounts, and installing new ones so the engine sits firmly again. Bad mounts can cause vibration at idle, clunks when shifting, and excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This guide covers the main engine/transmission mounts on your stock 1.6L CVT FWD Kicks.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Support the engine gently from below before removing any mount. Do not lift the engine by the oil pan without a wood block.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the battery tray or starter wiring area.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely. You will work near metal brackets and exhaust-area components that can stay hot.
• ⚠️ Replace mounts one at a time. Removing multiple mounts at once can let the engine shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ A torque wrench is required. A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact tightness so they do not loosen or break.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
• 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Flat trim clip remover
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Paint marker
• Flashlight
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque rod mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque rod mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fasteners - Qty: 1 set
• Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Kicks on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧊 Let the engine cool for at least 45 minutes before starting.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move it aside so it cannot spring back onto the terminal.
• 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 📸 Take phone pictures of each mount before removal. This helps you match bracket direction during installation.
• ✍️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount bracket before loosening bolts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Kicks at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front pinch weld support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before going underneath.
• Stability first. Never rush this step.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a flat trim clip remover to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 if any shield fasteners use cross-head screws.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any 10mm splash shield bolts.
• Set the shield and clips aside in order.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the saddle of the floor jack.
• Position the jack and wood block under the flat reinforced area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack only until the wood block touches the pan and lightly supports the engine.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Support means gentle contact, not lifting.

Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• Open the hood and locate the right engine mount on the passenger side of the engine bay.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the air intake duct fasteners if the duct blocks access.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any small bracket or harness retainers attached near the mount.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position on the body bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
• Adjust the floor jack slightly until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Remove the old right engine mount by hand.
• Install the new right engine mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb and 17mm socket to tighten the right mount fasteners to Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• Locate the left transmission mount on the driver side of the engine bay near the CVT transmission.
• If the battery tray blocks access, use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the battery hold-down, then lift out the battery.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the battery tray fasteners.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to move any nearby wiring brackets aside.
• Support the transmission side gently by moving the floor jack and wood block under the transmission case flat area.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position.
• Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the mount fasteners.
• Use a 17mm wrench where socket access is tight.
• Remove the old left transmission mount by hand.
• Install the new left transmission mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb and 17mm socket to tighten the left mount fasteners to Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the battery tray fasteners and tighten snugly.
• Reinstall the battery but leave the negative cable disconnected until the end.

Step 6: Replace the Front Torque Rod Mount

• From underneath, locate the front torque rod mount. A torque rod mount limits front-to-back engine movement during acceleration.
• Use a flashlight to inspect how the mount is positioned before removal.
• Use a paint marker to mark the bracket location.
• Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the mount bolts.
• If a bolt is tight, use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar with the 17mm socket.
• Remove the old front torque rod mount.
• Install the new front torque rod mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb and 17mm socket to tighten the front torque rod fasteners to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Rear Torque Rod Mount

• Locate the rear torque rod mount toward the rear/lower side of the engine and transmission assembly.
• Use a flashlight to confirm bolt access and mount direction.
• Use a paint marker to mark the bracket position.
• Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the rear torque rod bolts.
• Use a 17mm wrench if a socket does not fit squarely.
• Remove the old rear torque rod mount.
• Install the new rear torque rod mount in the same direction as the old part.
• Start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb and 17mm socket to tighten the rear torque rod fasteners to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Settle the Engine and Recheck Torque

• Use the floor jack to lower the engine/transmission support very slowly.
• Watch each mount as the engine weight settles onto the new rubber mounts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb and the correct socket to recheck each mount fastener.
• Confirm the mount brackets still line up with your paint marker marks.
• Hand-started bolts prevent expensive thread damage.

Step 9: Reinstall Shields and Battery Cable

• Use a flat trim clip remover by hand to reinstall the splash shield clips.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 to reinstall any cross-head screws.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall any 10mm shield bolts.
• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the battery terminal snugly. Do not overtighten it.

Step 10: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands by hand.
• Lower your Kicks slowly to the ground.
• Remove the rear wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle in Park. Watch for abnormal shaking or knocking.
• ✅ Hold the brake pedal firmly and shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. The engine should move slightly, not jump.
• ✅ Listen for clunks when shifting. A soft change in engine position is normal.
• ✅ Test drive at low speed first. Avoid hard acceleration until you confirm everything feels normal.
• ✅ After the test drive, use a flashlight to inspect all mounts again for shifted brackets or loose fasteners.
• ✅ If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock, radio presets, and one-touch window function if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,150 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$700 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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