🔧 Traverse - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine and transmission in place while absorbing vibration. On your Traverse, replacing the engine mounts requires safely supporting the powertrain from below, removing mount fasteners, and transferring load carefully so the engine does not shift suddenly.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ This repair requires supporting the engine and transmission. Never remove a mount without support in place.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid ground. Never work under your Traverse supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Do not lift directly on the oil pan without a wide wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near starter, alternator, or harness routing.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and bracket while raising or lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ If a bolt does not line up, do not force it. Slightly raise or lower the engine until the holes align.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm wrench
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3-inch extension
• 6-inch extension
• 12-inch extension
• Swivel socket adapter 3/8-inch
• Torque wrench 10-100 Nm
• Torque wrench 40-250 Nm
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity (specialty)
• Wood block 12-inch x 12-inch minimum
• Plastic trim removal tool set
• Flat-blade screwdriver medium
• Needle-nose pliers
• Shop light
• Paint marker
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1 if replacing as a set
• Front lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1 if replacing as a set
• Rear lower torque strut mount - Qty: 1 if replacing as a set
• Engine mount bolts - Qty: as needed if corroded or damaged
• Transmission mount bolts - Qty: as needed if corroded or damaged
• Underbody splash shield retainers - Qty: as needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Traverse on a flat, solid surface and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• ❄️ Let the engine cool completely before working near the exhaust and radiator area.
• 📸 Take photos of each mount, bracket, and bolt location before removal.
• ℹ️ A torque strut mount limits engine rocking during acceleration and braking.
• ℹ️ An engine support bar sits over the engine bay and holds the powertrain from above.
• ⚠️ For a first-time DIYer, replace one mount at a time. Do not remove multiple mounts at once.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Traverse at the front subframe lifting area.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front pinch welds or approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum nearby for supporting the powertrain later.
• Shake-test before getting underneath.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove the lower splash shield bolts.
• Use a plastic trim removal tool set or flat-blade screwdriver medium to remove plastic retainers.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.

Step 3: Support the Engine From Above

• Set the engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity (specialty) across the upper body structure at the strut tower areas.
• Attach the support chains to the factory engine lift points.
• Take up slack until the chains are snug, but do not lift the vehicle.
• Use a shop light to confirm the chains are clear of hoses, wiring, and the radiator fan.

Step 4: Add Lower Powertrain Support

• Place a wood block 12-inch x 12-inch minimum on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under a strong, flat area of the engine oil pan or transmission case.
• Raise the jack only until it lightly supports the engine. Do not lift the vehicle off the stands.
• ℹ️ The wood block spreads the jack force so the pan is not dented.

Step 5: Mark Mount Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount bracket before loosening bolts.
• Mark the mount-to-body and mount-to-engine bracket locations.
• This helps place the new mount close to the original position.

Step 6: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove any air duct, cover, or small bracket blocking access to the right engine mount.
• Use needle-nose pliers to release any nearby harness clips from the mount bracket.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive breaker bar, and 6-inch extension to loosen the right mount through-bolt or large mount fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the bolt slides out without force.
• Remove the old right engine mount by hand.
• Place the new right engine mount into position and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 40-250 Nm to tighten the right mount fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs), then tighten an additional 90 degrees if using new torque-to-yield bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 40-250 Nm to tighten the large through-bolt to Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• Move the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and wood block 12-inch x 12-inch minimum under the transmission case.
• Raise the jack slightly until the transmission is supported.
• Use a 10mm socket, 13mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to remove any battery tray, intake duct, or bracket that blocks access.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive breaker bar, and 6-inch extension to loosen the left transmission mount fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-body and mount-to-transmission bolts.
• Raise or lower the transmission slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the old left transmission mount comes out without prying hard.
• Install the new left transmission mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 40-250 Nm to tighten the mount bolts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs), then tighten an additional 90 degrees if using new torque-to-yield bolts.
• Reinstall removed brackets, battery tray, or intake parts using a 10mm socket and 13mm socket.

Step 8: Replace the Front Lower Torque Strut Mount

• From underneath, use a shop light to locate the front lower torque strut mount between the powertrain and subframe.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive breaker bar, and 6-inch extension to loosen the torque strut bolts.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the bolts while supporting the mount by hand.
• Remove the old front lower torque strut mount.
• Install the new front lower torque strut mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Start both bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench 40-250 Nm and 18mm socket to tighten the torque strut bolts to Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Replace the Rear Lower Torque Strut Mount

• Use a shop light to locate the rear lower torque strut mount from underneath.
• Use a swivel socket adapter 3/8-inch, 18mm socket, 12-inch extension, and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar if access is tight.
• Loosen and remove the rear torque strut bolts.
• Remove the old rear lower torque strut mount by hand.
• Install the new rear lower torque strut mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 40-250 Nm and 18mm socket to tighten the rear torque strut bolts to Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Settle the Powertrain Before Final Check

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to slowly lower the engine and transmission until the mounts carry the weight.
• Loosen the engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity (specialty) chains slightly, but leave the bar in place for now.
• Use a shop light to check that each mount sits flat and no hoses or wires are stretched.
• Use a torque wrench 40-250 Nm to recheck all large mount fasteners.

Step 11: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Lift the lower splash shield into position by hand.
• Install any plastic retainers with a plastic trim removal tool set.
• Use a 10mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 6-inch extension to reinstall the splash shield bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-100 Nm to tighten small splash shield bolts to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 12: Lower the Vehicle

• Remove the engine support bar 1,000-lb capacity (specialty).
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise your Traverse slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

Step 13: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the cable terminal until it cannot rotate by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine with your foot on the brake and listen for clunks or abnormal vibration.
• ✅ Shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, while holding the brake. The engine should move slightly, not jump hard.
• ✅ Check that no warning lights are on.
• ✅ Take a short, gentle test drive and listen for knocking during acceleration and braking.
• ✅ Recheck visible mount fasteners after the test drive if access allows.
• ✅ If the battery was disconnected, reset clock and window express-up/down if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,800 for multiple mounts (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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