🔧 Odyssey - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Odyssey means supporting the engine safely, removing the worn rubber-and-metal mounts, and installing new ones in the same position. Engine mounts hold the engine steady and reduce vibration; worn mounts can cause clunks, shaking at idle, or a thump when shifting into gear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This covers the main engine/transmission mount replacement approach for your stock Odyssey LX V6 FWD.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands every time.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing any mount. If not supported, it can shift and damage hoses, wiring, or your hands.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and engine oil pan to spread the load. Do not lift directly on the bare aluminum oil pan.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the starter-area wiring or tight engine bay brackets.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time. Removing multiple mounts at once can let the powertrain move too far.
• ⚠️ Do not place fingers between the mount and bracket holes while aligning parts.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• Flathead screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolt kit - Qty: 1
• Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: 6-10

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Odyssey on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the van cannot roll.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully before working near the exhaust or radiator fans.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• Use a paint marker to mark each mount’s bracket position before removal. This helps line up the new mount.
• A breaker bar is a long-handled wrench used to loosen tight bolts with more leverage.
• A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct force so they are not too loose or overtightened.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Van

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise the front of your Odyssey.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side pinch welds or approved support points.
• Gently lower the van onto the jack stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Never trust the jack alone.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips holding the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place the wood block 2x6-inch minimum on the pad of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the jack and wood block under a strong flat area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack only until the wood block touches and lightly supports the engine. Do not lift the van off the jack stands.
• Support only, do not jack high.

Step 4: Replace the Right-Side Engine Mount

• Use a 10mm socket to remove any intake duct or small bracket blocking access near the passenger-side upper mount.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount and bracket position.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the large through-bolt that passes through the mount.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-body and mount-to-engine bracket bolts, depending on bolt size fitted.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the engine slightly until the bolt slides out without force.
• Remove the old right-side engine mount.
• Install the new right-side engine mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Cross-threading means the bolt is entering at the wrong angle and damaging threads.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the through-bolt to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) unless the bolt size calls for the larger mount spec.

Step 5: Replace the Front Engine Mount

• Move under the front of the van and locate the front lower engine mount near the front subframe.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount’s position.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-subframe bolts.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to gently adjust engine height until the through-bolt slides out.
• Remove the old front engine mount.
• Install the new front engine mount and loosely start all bolts by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the through-bolt to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten mount-to-subframe bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Rear Engine Mount

• Locate the rear engine mount at the back side of the engine cradle, toward the firewall.
• Access is tight. Use a 6-inch socket extension, 17mm socket, and 1/2-inch drive ratchet.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount and bracket location.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the rear mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket with a 6-inch socket extension to remove the mount bracket bolts.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to slightly tilt the engine forward or rearward as needed. Move slowly.
• Remove the old rear engine mount from below.
• Install the new rear engine mount in the same position.
• Start every bolt by hand before tightening.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the through-bolt to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten rear mount bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
• Patience matters on rear mounts.

Step 7: Replace the Left-Side Transmission Mount

• Move the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch minimum so it lightly supports the transmission case.
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to move small brackets or wiring retainers out of the way if needed.
• Use a paint marker to mark the transmission mount location.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the main transmission mount fasteners.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to adjust the transmission slightly until the bolts come out smoothly.
• Remove the old left-side transmission mount.
• Install the new left-side transmission mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten large mount bolts to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten smaller bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Final Alignment and Tightening Check

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to remove support pressure from the engine and transmission slowly.
• Watch the mounts as the engine settles. The rubber should not twist sharply or bind.
• Use the torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to recheck each mount fastener after the engine weight is back on the mounts.
• Use a flathead screwdriver only to guide loose splash shield edges. Do not pry on the new rubber mounts.

Step 9: Reinstall the Splash Shield and Battery Cable

• Lift the lower splash shield into place by hand.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to install replacement splash shield clips if old clips broke.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the splash shield bolts snugly.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the van slightly, remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum, and lower the van to the ground.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the battery terminal nut to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Odyssey and let it idle. Check for abnormal vibration, knocking, or rattling.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. The engine should not jump or clunk heavily.
• Take a slow test drive around the block. Listen during gentle acceleration and braking.
• After the test drive, recheck the engine bay visually for any loose brackets, wiring clips, or splash shield movement.
• If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock, radio presets, and auto window function if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $950-$1,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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