🔧 Odyssey - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Odyssey means supporting the engine safely, removing the worn mount assemblies, and installing new mounts so the engine sits correctly and vibration is reduced. The EX with the V6 uses multiple mounts, so this guide covers the common upper side mount, front mount, and rear/lower mounts as a full set replacement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, exhaust, or the transmission.
• ⚠️ Use a floor jack with a wide wood block under the engine oil pan only for light support. Do not lift hard on the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Always support the Odyssey with jack stands before working underneath. A jack alone is not safe.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or radiator fan area.
• ⚠️ Engine mounts carry vehicle weight and torque load. If bolts are cross-threaded or loose, drivetrain damage can occur.
• ⚠️ Some mounts are tight to access. Work slowly and keep hands clear while shifting the engine position.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
• 1/2-inch drive 10-inch extension
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Combination wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Paint marker
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolt kit - Qty: 1
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Odyssey on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. A negative cable is the black battery cable marked “-”.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount bracket before removal. This helps line up the new parts.
• 🛠️ A torque wrench tightens bolts to an exact tightness so they are not loose or over-tightened.
• 🛠️ A breaker bar is a long-handled ratchet used to loosen very tight bolts.
• 🛠️ A universal joint adapter lets a socket bend slightly to reach bolts at an angle.
• 📌 Assumption: this procedure is for replacing the engine/transmission mount set on a stock Odyssey.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Front

• Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels before lifting.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise the front of your Odyssey.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby. You will use it to support the engine.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Put on safety glasses and work gloves.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any 10mm splash shield bolts.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• Keep clips organized by location.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place the wood block 2x6-inch on the floor jack saddle.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan.
• Raise the floor jack only until the wood block gently contacts the oil pan.
• Do not lift the vehicle with the oil pan. The jack is only supporting engine weight.
• Gentle support prevents pan damage.

Step 4: Remove Upper Access Covers

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the upper engine appearance cover fasteners if equipped.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove nearby plastic retainers as needed.
• Use a 10mm socket to move brackets or cable guides that block the right side engine mount.
• Do not pull hard on wiring harnesses. Move them only enough for access.

Step 5: Loosen the Right Side Engine Mount Bolts

• Use a paint marker to outline the right side mount position on the body bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive breaker bar, and 10-inch extension to loosen the mount through-bolts.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to loosen the mount-to-body bracket bolts, depending on bolt head size.
• Do not fully remove all bolts until the engine is supported and stable.

Step 6: Remove the Right Side Engine Mount

• Use the floor jack to raise or lower the engine slightly until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet to remove the through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount bracket bolts.
• Lift the right side engine mount out of the engine bay.
• If it sticks, use an 18-inch pry bar gently. Do not pry against plastic parts or hoses.

Step 7: Install the New Right Side Engine Mount

• Set the new right side engine mount into the same position as the old one.
• Use the paint marker outlines to help line up the mount.
• Start all bolts by hand first. Hand-starting means threading bolts with your fingers to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket to snug the through-bolt, but do not fully torque it yet.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to snug the body bracket bolts.
• Final-tighten after all mount bolts are installed and the engine is settled.

Step 8: Remove the Front Engine Mount

• Move under the front of your Odyssey with safety glasses on.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove any lower brackets or splash shield supports blocking the front mount.
• Use a 17mm socket, breaker bar, and extension to loosen the front mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-subframe bolts.
• Adjust the floor jack slightly until the through-bolt slides out smoothly.
• Remove the front engine mount from the subframe area.

Step 9: Install the New Front Engine Mount

• Place the new front engine mount in the same orientation as the old mount.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to install the mount-to-subframe bolts finger-tight first.
• Use the floor jack to carefully align the engine bracket with the mount.
• Slide in the through-bolt by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket to snug the through-bolt.
• Do not fully torque until all mounts are installed and aligned.

Step 10: Remove the Rear Engine Mount

• Stay under the vehicle and locate the rear mount near the rear of the engine/transmission area.
• Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch breaker bar, 10-inch extension, and universal joint socket adapter to loosen the rear mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the rear mount bracket bolts.
• Use the floor jack to slightly raise or lower the engine until the mount is not loaded.
• Remove the rear mount through-bolt and lower the mount out of position.
• Rear mount access is tight.

Step 11: Install the New Rear Engine Mount

• Position the new rear engine mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Start the rear mount bracket bolts by hand.
• Use the floor jack to align the through-bolt hole.
• Install the through-bolt by hand first.
• Use a 17mm socket and extension to snug the through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to snug the bracket bolts.

Step 12: Replace the Transmission Mount

• Move the floor jack and wood block to lightly support the transmission case, not the plastic pan or covers.
• Use a paint marker to outline the transmission mount position.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the transmission mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Lift out the old transmission mount.
• Place the new transmission mount into position.
• Start all bolts by hand, then snug them with a 14mm socket or 17mm socket.

Step 13: Settle the Engine and Final-Torque the Mounts

• Use the floor jack to slowly lower the engine and transmission until the mounts carry the weight naturally.
• Rock the engine gently by hand from the top to help the mounts settle.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct socket to tighten mount-to-body and mount-to-bracket bolts to Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs) unless the replacement mount instructions specify otherwise.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs with a 17mm or 19mm socket to tighten main through-bolts to Torque to 93 Nm (69 ft-lbs) unless the replacement mount instructions specify otherwise.
• For larger subframe-side mount fasteners, use a torque wrench and correct socket to tighten to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) if applicable by bolt size and location.
• Torque only after alignment is natural.

Step 14: Reinstall Removed Brackets and Covers

• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any wiring brackets or cable guides removed for access.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the upper engine cover fasteners if equipped.
• Use a trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall plastic clips where possible.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall lower splash shield bolts.
• Replace broken splash shield clips with new underbody splash shield clips.

Step 15: Reconnect the Battery and Lower the Vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the Odyssey slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes while watching for abnormal movement.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, then back to Park. The engine should move slightly, not jump or clunk.
• ✅ Listen for rattles, thumps, or vibration that may indicate a loose bracket or misaligned mount.
• ✅ Take a short low-speed test drive. Accelerate gently and brake gently.
• ✅ Recheck visible mount bolts after the test drive using a torque wrench and correct socket.
• ✅ If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock, radio presets, and one-touch window function if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$750 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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