🔧 Civic - Engine Mount Replacement

This is an advanced DIY job if you're replacing all three mounts. Your Civic uses a right-side engine mount, a left-side manual-transmission mount, and a lower rear torque rod. Replace them one at a time while the engine and transmission remain supported. The correct mount listings are now showing in the parts sidebar. hondapartsnow.com

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 5-8 hours

Assumption: These instructions cover the original engine, six-speed manual transmission, and stock mounting system.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never remove more than one mount at a time. The remaining mounts aren't designed to carry the unsupported powertrain.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a transmission jack and a broad wood block beneath the oil pan. The wood spreads the load and protects the aluminum pan.
• ⚠️ The jack supports the engine. It does not support the vehicle. Place the Civic securely on four jack stands.
• ⚠️ Raise or lower the engine only enough to remove pressure from the mount. Excess movement can strain hoses, wiring, axles, and the exhaust.
• ⚠️ Honda specifies new mounting bolts and nuts for the primary mount fasteners. Do not reuse hardware identified as single-use. honcivic.automotive-manuals.com
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before removing the battery tray or working near the positive terminal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Metric socket set (10-19mm)
• Metric combination wrench set (10-19mm)
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar (24-inch minimum)
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench (30-150 Nm range)
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• Universal socket joint (3/8-inch drive)
• Trim-clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver (6-inch)
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Transmission jack (rated 1,000-pound minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks (rubber)
• Wood support block (25mm thick minimum)
• Paint marker (oil-resistant)
• Mechanic gloves (cut-resistant)
• Safety glasses (ANSI Z87.1)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side hydraulic engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side manual-transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower rear engine torque rod - Qty: 1
• Engine mount replacement bolt and nut set - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount replacement bolt and nut set - Qty: 1
• Torque rod replacement bolts - Qty: 1 set

The factory layout confirms separate engine-side, manual-transmission, and lower torque-rod mounts for the Si. Match each sidebar listing carefully because the manual-transmission pieces aren't interchangeable with CVT mounts. hondapartsnow.com

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on solid, level ground. Select first gear, apply the parking brake, and chock both rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery-terminal nut. Disconnect and isolate the cable.
• Raise the front with a floor jack. Position jack stands under the approved side support points.
• Raise the rear and support it so the Civic sits level on four stands.
• Use a trim-clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the lower engine undercover.
• Place the wood block on the transmission jack. Position it beneath the oil pan without covering the drain plug or pressing against an edge.
• Raise the jack until it just contacts the pan. Do not lift the vehicle from the stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Inspect and identify the failed mount

• Use a work light to inspect the right mount for torn rubber, separation, or leaked hydraulic fluid.
• Inspect the left transmission mount beneath the battery area for splitting or sagging.
• Inspect the lower rear torque rod from underneath for cracked rubber or excessive movement.
• Mark the installed position of each bracket with a paint marker before loosening anything.
• Photos before disassembly save headaches later.

Step 2: Remove the lower rear torque rod

• Confirm the transmission jack and wood block are lightly supporting the engine.
• Use the appropriate metric socket, breaker bar, and extension to loosen the torque-rod bolts from underneath.
• Adjust the transmission jack a few millimetres if a bolt binds. A correctly supported engine lets the bolt slide out without hammering.
• Remove the torque rod. Remove its bracket only if the replacement or access requires it.
• Install the new torque rod with its UP marking facing upward. Honda specifically calls for this orientation. lemon.dogeware.me
• Start every new bolt by hand. Leave the bolts slightly loose until the mount-settling step.

Step 3: Replace the right-side engine mount

• From above, use a 10mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to remove the intake duct and any covers blocking the mount.
• Check that no hose, wiring loom, or ground cable will be stretched when the engine moves.
• Use the appropriate metric socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use the appropriate metric socket to remove the engine-side bracket fasteners.
• Raise or lower the transmission jack only enough to unload the mount.
• Remove the old mount and compare its shape, stud locations, and bracket surfaces with the replacement.
• Position the new mount. Start the body fasteners and bracket fasteners by hand.
• Leave all fasteners finger-tight so the mount can settle naturally.
• Never pull misaligned holes together with bolts.

Step 4: Replace the left transmission mount

• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect and remove the battery hold-down, battery terminals, and battery.
• Use a 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool to remove the battery tray and attached harness retainers.
• Move the transmission jack and wood block to support the transmission case at a broad reinforced area.
• Do not place the jack beneath a drain plug, thin rib, wiring bracket, or shift mechanism.
• Use the appropriate metric socket and breaker bar to loosen the transmission-mount bolts and bracket fasteners.
• Raise or lower the jack slightly until the fasteners move freely.
• Remove the old mount. Keep brackets correctly oriented.
• Install the manual-transmission mount and new hardware. Start every fastener by hand, but do not fully tighten it yet.
• Reinstall the battery tray loosely if it does not obstruct final torque access.

Step 5: Settle and align the mounts

• Confirm that all three mounts are installed and their main fasteners remain slightly loose.
• Slowly lower the transmission jack until the engine's normal weight rests on the mounts.
• Keep the jack touching the support block as a safety backup, but do not lift the engine.
• Gently rock the engine by hand at a solid bracket. Do not pull on hoses, intake pipes, or wiring.
• Check that each mount sits naturally without twisted rubber or forced alignment.
• This settling step matters. Tightening a mount while the engine is jacked out of position can create vibration. Nobody wants to finish a five-hour repair and build a new buzz into the dashboard.

Step 6: Torque the right-side engine mount

• Use the correct metric socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench on the 12mm-thread side-mount bolts: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
• Use the correct metric socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench on the 14mm-thread side-mount bolts: Torque to 93 Nm (69 ft-lbs).
• Use the correct metric socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench on the side-mount nut: Torque to 93 Nm (69 ft-lbs).
• Use the correct metric socket and torque wrench on the side-mount bracket bolts: Torque to 54 Nm (40 ft-lbs).
• These measurements refer to fastener thread diameter, not socket size. Honda specifies new bolts and a new nut in these positions. honcivic.automotive-manuals.com

Step 7: Torque the transmission mount

• Use the correct metric socket and torque wrench on the transmission-mount bolts: Torque to 74 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Use the correct metric socket and torque wrench on the transmission-mount bracket bolts: Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).
• Use the correct metric socket and torque wrench on the transmission-mount bracket nuts: Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).
• Honda identifies these bolts and nuts as replacement hardware. honcivic.automotive-manuals.com

Step 8: Torque the lower rear torque rod

• Use the correct metric socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench on the torque-rod bolts: Torque to 93 Nm (69 ft-lbs).
• If its bracket was removed, use the correct metric socket and torque wrench on the bracket bolts: Torque to 93 Nm (69 ft-lbs).
• Honda specifies new bolts for these connections. honcivic.automotive-manuals.com

Step 9: Reassemble the upper components

• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery tray and reconnect all harness clips.
• Install the battery, positive cable, negative cable, and hold-down using a 10mm socket.
• Use a 10mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to reinstall the intake duct and covers.
• Verify that no tools remain in the engine compartment.

Step 10: Reinstall the undercover

• Use a trim-clip removal tool and 10mm socket to reinstall the lower engine undercover.
• Replace damaged clips rather than forcing them back into place.
• Remove the transmission jack and wood block.
• Lower the Civic carefully with the floor jack after removing all four jack stands.

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✅ After Repair

• With the transmission in neutral and the parking brake applied, start the engine without touching the accelerator.
• Watch the engine during startup. A small movement is normal; a hard jump or clunk is not.
• Let it idle with the air conditioning off, then on. Check for abnormal vibration in the steering wheel, pedals, and seat.
• Press and release the clutch several times. Confirm no wiring, hoses, or intake parts contact the engine.
• Take a short, gentle test drive. Check acceleration, deceleration, shifting, and reverse for clunks.
• Stop immediately if you hear metal contact, feel severe vibration, or notice the shifter moving excessively.
• After the test drive, inspect every mount and confirm the fastener paint marks have not moved.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 USD for all mounts, hardware, and labor

DIY Cost: $200-$550 USD for mounts and replacement hardware

You Save: Approximately $500-$1,150 USD by doing it yourself!

Labor pricing varies significantly by region. Replacing only the accessible lower torque rod costs considerably less than replacing all three mounts.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo has opened the matching engine-mount, torque-rod, kit, and hardware aisles for your Civic. Buy the manual-transmission fitment and new fasteners together. Same-day and 2-day shipping options are available on qualifying parts, plus the support and torque tools needed for the job.