🔧 CR-V - Engine Mount Replacement

Your CR-V uses an upper passenger-side engine mount, an upper driver-side transmission mount, and lower torque mounts that control powertrain movement. Replace only one mount at a time while the engine and transmission are safely supported so they cannot shift.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

Assumption: This procedure covers replacement of the complete mount set on the stock 2.4L AWD powertrain.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the powertrain with an engine support bar before loosening any mount.
• ⚠️ Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Do not place a jack directly against the aluminum oil pan or CVT case.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time. Removing several mounts can allow the powertrain to fall or damage hoses, wiring, and AWD components.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the battery tray near the transmission mount.
• ⚠️ Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool completely.
• ⚠️ Mount fasteners must be started by hand before tightening. Never pull a misaligned engine into position by tightening a bolt.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Engine support bar rated 1,000 lb minimum (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block approximately 12 x 6 x 1 inches
• 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench rated 7-75 ft-lbs
• 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 10mm combination wrench
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• Universal socket joint
• Flat-blade trim-clip tool
• Plastic pry tool
• Paint marker
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Driver-side upper transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front lower torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine-mount self-locking nuts - Qty: As required
• Transmission-mount self-locking nuts - Qty: As required
• Underbody shield clips - Qty: As required

Use mount assemblies matched specifically to the 2.4L AWD configuration. The 1.5L turbo mounts are different.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park your CR-V on firm, level ground. Select Park and apply the parking brake.
• 📋 Open the hood, remove the key from the vehicle, and wait at least three minutes before disconnecting the battery.
• 📋 Place wheel chocks securely against the rear tires.
• 📋 An engine support bar spans the body structure above the engine and holds the powertrain with an adjustable chain.
• 📋 Photograph each mount, bracket, wiring clip, and hose before disassembly.
• 📋 Mark each mount’s original position with a paint marker. This helps prevent vibration caused by poor alignment.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative battery terminal.
• Lift the terminal off and position it where it cannot touch the battery post.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down and positive terminal.
• Lift out the battery with both hands. Keep it upright.

Step 2: Raise and Secure the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack at the reinforced front-center jacking point to raise your CR-V.
• Place the jack stands beneath the reinforced side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands and give it a careful stability check.
• Leave the floor jack positioned as a backup without carrying vehicle weight.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Shield

• Wear safety glasses before working below the vehicle.
• Use the flat-blade trim-clip tool to release the plastic retainers.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the shield bolts.
• Lower the shield and keep its fasteners organized by location.

Step 4: Install the Engine Support Bar

• Position the engine support bar across the manufacturer-approved upper body ledges.
• Connect its chain to the factory engine lifting eye.
• Turn the support bar adjuster by hand until the chain is snug.
• Place the wood block on the floor jack saddle beneath a strong powertrain bracket as a light backup. Do not press against the oil pan or CVT case.
• Raise the jack only until it contacts the support point. Do not lift the vehicle from its stands.

Step 5: Replace the Passenger-Side Upper Engine Mount

• Use a 10mm socket and plastic pry tool to move any intake duct or reservoir bracket blocking the passenger-side mount.
• Use a paint marker to outline the mount and bracket positions.
• Use a 17mm socket, breaker bar, and extension to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use a 17mm socket to loosen the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Remove the mount and compare its stud locations and height with the replacement.
• Set the new mount on the body and install every fastener by hand.
• Use the engine support bar adjuster to align the center fastener. Do not lever against the rubber mount.
• Use the torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten M12 mount fasteners to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten M10 mount fasteners to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Start all fasteners before tightening any one.

Step 6: Replace the Driver-Side Transmission Mount

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery tray bolts and wiring retainers.
• Lift out the battery tray to expose the transmission mount.
• Use a paint marker to outline the transmission mount and bracket.
• Position the wood-blocked floor jack beneath a reinforced transmission support bracket and apply only light support.
• Use a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar to loosen the mount fasteners.
• Adjust the floor jack only a few millimeters until the fasteners move freely.
• Remove the old mount without pulling on nearby wiring or CVT hoses.
• Install the new mount and thread all nuts and bolts by hand.
• Use the torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten M12 mount fasteners to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten M10 mount fasteners to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery tray bolts and tighten them to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Front Lower Torque Mount

• Work beneath the vehicle only after confirming both jack stands are secure.
• Use the engine support bar and wood-blocked floor jack to keep the powertrain neutral, without lifting it.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the front torque-mount through-bolt and body fasteners.
• Remove the mount and compare its offset and installation direction with the replacement.
• Install all fasteners by hand. Adjust the support bar slightly if the through-bolt does not slide through freely.
• Use the torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten the M12 through-bolt and M12 bracket fasteners to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Replace the Rear Lower Torque Mount

• Locate the rear torque mount between the powertrain and rear portion of the front subframe.
• Use a 17mm socket, universal joint, and extension to loosen its through-bolt and bracket fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly to remove tension, then withdraw the bolts.
• Remove the mount while protecting the exhaust, steering components, and AWD propeller shaft.
• Install the replacement in the same direction and start every fastener by hand.
• Use the torque wrench and 17mm socket to tighten M12 through-bolts and bracket fasteners to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• If a supplied fastener has a different diameter or strength marking, stop and use the fastener-specific Honda service specification.

Step 9: Settle and Inspect the Mounts

• Check that each locating tab is seated and no mount rubber is twisted.
• Confirm that wiring, hoses, and ground cables are returned to their original clips.
• Slowly release the floor jack while watching each mount.
• Release the engine support bar gradually, then remove it.
• Use the torque wrench to recheck every accessible mount fastener at its specified torque.

Step 10: Reassemble the Vehicle

• Use the flat-blade trim-clip tool and 10mm socket to reinstall the lower shield and clips.
• Use the torque wrench and 10mm socket to tighten the shield bolts to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
• Install the battery, hold-down, and positive terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Install the negative terminal last using a 10mm wrench.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten each battery terminal nut to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs).
• Raise your CR-V with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it carefully.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ With the hood open, start the engine and let it idle. Keep hands and tools away from belts and fans.
• ✅ Listen for clunks and inspect for unusual engine movement or vibration.
• ✅ Hold the brake firmly and shift slowly through Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. Pause three seconds in each position.
• ✅ A small idle change after battery disconnection is normal while the engine computer relearns.
• ✅ Set the clock and restore saved audio settings if needed.
• ✅ Drive gently for 10-15 minutes, then inspect the mounts and underbody shield again.
• ✅ If vibration is worse, stop driving and check mount alignment, fastener seating, and exhaust clearance.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹55,000-₹95,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹28,000-₹60,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹20,000-₹40,000 by doing it yourself!

Sonīpat-area labor and imported U.S.-spec part prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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