How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016-2021 Toyota Prius (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step guide covering tools, parts, mount locations, torque guidance, and hybrid safety for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2020, 2021
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2016-2021 Toyota Prius (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step guide covering tools, parts, mount locations, torque guidance, and hybrid safety for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2020, 2021
🔧 Prius - Engine Mount Replacement
Your Prius uses a right-side engine mount, a left-side transaxle mount, and a lower rear torque mount. Replace only the mount confirmed defective, or replace multiple worn mounts one at a time so the hybrid powertrain stays correctly positioned.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours for all mounts
Assumption: This procedure covers the original U.S.-market mounting arrangement; exact fastener torque must be matched by mounting position in Toyota service information.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚡ Your Prius contains high-voltage orange cables. Do not touch, loosen, support, or place tools against any orange component.
- 🧤 Switch the vehicle off and keep the electronic key at least 15 feet away so the hybrid system cannot start unexpectedly.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative 12-volt battery terminal before removing components or mount fasteners.
- 🚗 Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. Support it securely with jack stands.
- ⚠️ Support the engine and transaxle before loosening any mount. Never place a jack directly against the aluminum oil pan or transaxle case.
- 🛑 Replace only one mount at a time. Removing multiple mounts can let the powertrain shift and damage hoses, wiring, or axle joints.
- 🔩 Mount torque values differ by fastener location. Do not use a generic torque value; obtain the position-specific specification from Toyota service information before beginning.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 6-inch socket extension
- 12-inch socket extension
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 10-150 ft-lb torque wrench
- Engine support bar rated 1,000 lb minimum (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Rubber jack pad
- Wheel chocks
- Trim-clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- LED work light
- Mechanic’s gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right engine mounting insulator - Qty: 1 as required
- Left transaxle mounting insulator - Qty: 1 as required
- Rear engine mounting insulator - Qty: 1 as required
- Engine-mount fasteners specified as non-reusable by Toyota - Qty: As required
- Underbody shield clips - Qty: As required
Important: Match each mount by installation position. Mounts that look similar may have different rubber stiffness and bracket alignment.
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Prius on solid, level ground. Select Park, apply the parking brake, and chock both rear wheels.
- 🔑 Turn the vehicle completely off. Remove the electronic key from the work area and wait at least five minutes.
- 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative 12-volt battery terminal. Isolate the cable so it cannot spring back onto the post.
- 📖 Obtain Toyota’s fastener-location torque table for the mount being replaced. Several bolts look alike but use different torque specifications.
- 📸 Photograph brackets, wiring retainers, and hose routing before disassembly.
- 🖊️ Use a paint marker to outline each mount and bracket position before loosening it.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Secure the Vehicle
- Place the wheel chocks firmly against both sides of the rear wheels.
- Use the floor jack with a rubber jack pad at the Toyota front-center lifting point.
- Place both jack stands beneath the reinforced front side support points, then lower the vehicle onto them.
- Gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable before going underneath.
Step 2: Remove Access Covers
- Use a trim-clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the necessary lower engine splash shields.
- Use a 10mm socket, flat-blade screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers to remove the air-cleaner inlet and air-cleaner housing if they obstruct the upper mounts.
- Disconnect only ordinary low-voltage connectors that block access. Do not disturb orange high-voltage wiring.
- Store clips and fasteners by panel location. Photograph every connector before unplugging it.
Step 3: Install the Engine Support Bar
- Position the 1,000-lb engine support bar across the reinforced body ledges according to the support-bar manufacturer’s instructions.
- Attach its chain to an approved factory engine lifting eye. Do not hook onto hoses, pipes, wiring brackets, or the intake manifold.
- Tighten the support-bar adjuster by hand until the chain is snug, then apply only enough tension to carry the powertrain’s weight.
- Use the floor jack only as a secondary stabilizer where Toyota identifies a safe support location. Never press against the oil pan.
Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount
- Use the paint marker to mark the mount’s original position relative to the body and engine bracket.
- Use the correctly fitting 14mm, 17mm, or 19mm socket with the breaker bar to loosen the body-side and engine-side fasteners. Confirm each socket fits fully before applying force.
- Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the bolts slide without binding. Do not raise the engine far enough to stretch hoses or wiring.
- Remove the fasteners with the ratchet and lift out the right engine mounting insulator.
- Compare the replacement mount’s bracket shape, locating pins, and stud positions with the removed mount.
- Install the replacement mount along the paint marks. Start every fastener by hand for several turns.
- Use the support bar to place the mount at a neutral height, with no visible pulling or twisting of the rubber.
- Use the torque wrench to tighten each fastener to the exact Toyota specification for its location. Do not substitute a generic mount torque.
Step 5: Replace the Left Transaxle Mount
- Confirm the right mount is fully installed and torqued before loosening the left mount.
- Use a 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool to remove any remaining intake duct, wiring retainer, or cover blocking the mount.
- Mark the left mount and bracket positions with the paint marker.
- Use the engine support bar to support the transaxle side without lifting the vehicle from the jack stands.
- Use the correctly fitting 14mm, 17mm, or 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body and mount-to-transaxle fasteners.
- Adjust the support bar until the fasteners are unloaded, then remove them with the ratchet.
- Install the new transaxle mount and start all fasteners by hand. Align it with the paint marks before tightening.
- Use the torque wrench to tighten each fastener to its position-specific Toyota specification. Do not tighten the mount while the rubber is visibly twisted.
Step 6: Replace the Lower Rear Torque Mount
- Confirm both upper mounts are installed and torqued before working underneath.
- Use the LED work light to inspect the lower rear mount and verify that no orange cable is near the working area.
- Use a 17mm or 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear mount through-bolt and bracket fasteners.
- Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the through-bolt can be removed without hammering.
- Remove the old rear mount and compare its locating features with the replacement.
- Install the replacement in the same orientation. Insert the through-bolt by hand without forcing it.
- Use the torque wrench to tighten the bracket fasteners and through-bolt to their individual Toyota specifications.
- Easy bolt insertion means the mount is aligned.
Step 7: Remove the Support Equipment
- Inspect all three mount positions with the LED work light and verify that every removed fastener is installed and torqued.
- Slowly release the engine support bar while watching the mounts, hoses, wiring, and axle boots.
- Remove the support bar only after the powertrain rests normally on all installed mounts.
- Use the 10mm socket, trim-clip removal tool, flat-blade screwdriver, and needle-nose pliers to reinstall the air-cleaner components, wiring retainers, and splash shields.
Step 8: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect Power
- Use the floor jack to raise the front slightly, remove both jack stands, and lower the vehicle completely.
- Use the 10mm socket to reconnect the negative 12-volt battery terminal securely.
- Keep hands and tools clear of the engine compartment before operating the hybrid system.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Press the brake pedal and start your Prius. Confirm the green READY indicator appears.
- 👂 Listen for knocking or heavy vibration as the gasoline engine starts and stops.
- 🔍 With the vehicle stationary, inspect the mounts for abnormal movement, pinched wiring, stretched hoses, or loose brackets.
- 🚗 Drive slowly in a safe area. Check for clunks during acceleration, deceleration, and direction changes.
- ⚠️ Stop immediately if a mount shifts, a metallic clunk appears, or a hybrid-system warning illuminates.
- 🔧 Recheck accessible fasteners with the torque wrench after the road test. Do not tighten beyond Toyota’s specified torque.
- 🕒 The clock and some convenience settings may need to be restored after the 12-volt battery disconnect.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹45,000-₹95,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹22,000-₹60,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹23,000-₹35,000 by doing it yourself!
Independent labor rates around Sonīpat vary considerably. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours when replacing all three mounts.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping where available on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.







