🔧 Tucson - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Tucson means supporting the engine safely, removing the worn rubber-and-metal mounts, and installing new ones in the same positions. Bad mounts can cause clunks, vibration at idle, harsh shifting feel, or engine movement when shifting between Drive and Reverse.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: This covers the main engine-side mount, transmission-side mount, front roll stopper, and rear roll stopper on your Tucson with the 2.0L automatic powertrain.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. Use jack stands every time.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing any mount. A floor jack with a wood block spreads the load so the oil pan is not damaged.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the plastic oil pan, exhaust, A/C compressor, or wiring brackets.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the battery tray, starter wiring area, or transmission mount area.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time so the engine and transmission stay aligned.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers out from between the mount brackets and body. The engine can shift suddenly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 1/2-inch torque wrench
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

An engine support bar is a metal support that sits across the strut towers and holds the engine from above. If you do not have one, you may support the engine from below with a floor jack and wood block, but work slowly and carefully.

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts - Qty: As needed
• Transmission mount bolts - Qty: As needed
• Undercover clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Tucson on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move it aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• 🧰 Let the engine cool fully before starting. Hot exhaust and coolant parts can burn you.
• 📝 Take photos before removing brackets, wiring clips, and hoses. This makes reassembly much easier.
• 🔩 If replacing all mounts, do one mount at a time. Do not remove every mount at once.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Front

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the proper front side support points.
• Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine later.
• Shake-test before crawling underneath.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Engine Undercover

• Put on safety glasses and work gloves.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic push clips from the lower engine cover.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the undercover bolts.
• Lower the cover and set it aside.
• On reassembly, tighten the small undercover bolts snug only, about Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block on the cup of the floor jack.
• Position the wood block under a strong flat area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack just until it lightly supports the engine. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• If using an engine support bar, install it across the strut towers and connect the support hook to the engine lift point.
• Support, do not jack high.

Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• Open the hood and locate the right engine mount on the passenger side of the engine bay.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any intake duct or small bracket blocking access.
• Use needle-nose pliers to release any wiring clips attached near the mount bracket.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use the floor jack very slowly to adjust engine height until the bolts slide out without force.
• Remove the old mount from the engine bay.
• Set the new right engine mount in place by hand.
• Start all bolts by hand first. This prevents cross-threading, which means damaging the bolt threads.
• Use a 17mm socket to snug the bolts evenly.
• Use a 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten right engine mount bolts to Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• Move to the driver side of the engine bay.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down bracket.
• Lift the battery straight up and set it safely aside.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery tray bolts.
• Remove the battery tray to access the transmission mount.
• Use the floor jack and wood block to support the transmission side lightly.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the transmission mount bolts.
• Use a 14mm socket if smaller bracket bolts are fitted around the mount.
• Adjust the jack height slightly until the mount bolts remove easily.
• Remove the old transmission mount.
• Install the new transmission mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket to snug the mount bolts evenly.
• Use a 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the transmission mount bolts to Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery tray and tighten its bolts to Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
• Reinstall the battery and hold-down bracket using a 10mm socket. Tighten snugly.

Step 6: Replace the Front Roll Stopper Mount

• A roll stopper mount limits engine rocking during acceleration and shifting.
• From underneath, locate the front roll stopper near the lower front of the engine/transmission assembly.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket to remove the bracket bolts, depending on bolt size fitted.
• Remove the old front roll stopper mount.
• Install the new front roll stopper mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket to snug the bolts.
• Use a 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the front roll stopper bolts to Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Rear Roll Stopper Mount

• Move farther back underneath the engine/transmission area and locate the rear roll stopper mount.
• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm or 17mm socket to remove the bracket bolts.
• If the bolt is tight, use a 6-inch socket extension for better access.
• Remove the old rear roll stopper mount.
• Install the new rear roll stopper mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a 17mm socket to snug the bolts.
• Use a 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the rear roll stopper bolts to Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Settle the Engine and Final-Tighten

• Use the floor jack to very slightly raise and lower the engine no more than needed so the mounts sit naturally.
• Check that all mounts are centered and not twisted.
• Use the 1/2-inch torque wrench to recheck every mount fastener.
• Use needle-nose pliers to reconnect any wiring clips removed earlier.
• Twisted mounts wear out fast.

Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Engine Undercover

• Lift the lower undercover into place.
• Use a 10mm socket to install the undercover bolts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic push clips.
• Tighten the bolts to Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect Battery and Lower Vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use the floor jack to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Tucson slowly to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for abnormal vibration or knocking.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. The engine should move slightly, not jump.
• ✅ Listen for clunks during light throttle takeoff.
• ✅ Test drive gently at first. Avoid hard acceleration for the first few miles.
• ✅ Recheck the visible mount bolts after the test drive.
• ✅ Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost after battery disconnect.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$600 (parts only)

You Save: $400-$600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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