🔧 Optima - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Optima uses four main powertrain mounts: the passenger-side engine mount, driver-side transmission mount, front roll-stop mount, and rear roll-stop mount. This procedure replaces all four; replace only the failed mount if the others pass inspection.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 5-8 hours

Assumption: Procedures below cover the stock 2.4L gasoline engine and automatic transmission.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never remove a mount until the engine and transmission are securely supported.
• ⚠️ Use an engine support bar from above. A jack pressing directly against the aluminum oil pan can crack it.
• ⚠️ Support the raised Optima with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool completely.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the battery tray or transmission mount.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time so the powertrain cannot shift excessively.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine while any mount is disconnected.
• ⚠️ Mount fastener torque varies by mounting position and fastener diameter. Match every fastener to the torque listed in its installation step.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Hydraulic floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Engine support bar rated 1,000-pound minimum (specialty)
• Fender-cover set
• 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 10mm combination wrench
• 12mm combination wrench
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• Phillips No. 2 screwdriver
• Trim-clip removal tool
• 8-inch alignment punch
• Paint marker
• LED work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Driver-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front roll-stop mount - Qty: 1
• Rear roll-stop mount - Qty: 1
• Engine-mount locking nuts and bolts - Qty: As required
• Transmission-mount locking nuts and bolts - Qty: As required
• Roll-stop mount locking nuts and bolts - Qty: As required

Replace self-locking nuts rather than reusing them.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park on firm, level ground. Shift to Park, apply the parking brake, and chock both rear wheels.
• 📋 Open the hood and protect both fenders with fender covers.
• 📋 Confirm each replacement mount matches the original mount’s bracket shape, stud locations, and electrical connections, if equipped.
• 📋 Take photographs before removing brackets, wire retainers, or ground cables.
• 📋 An engine support bar spans the strut towers and holds the powertrain from above with an adjustable chain.
• 📋 Record radio presets if desired. No battery registration or infotainment reset is required.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative battery-terminal nut.
• Remove the negative cable and position it where it cannot touch the terminal.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down.
• Disconnect the positive terminal with the 10mm wrench, then lift out the battery while keeping it upright.

Step 2: Remove the Air-Cleaner and Battery Tray

• Use a 10mm socket and Phillips No. 2 screwdriver to loosen the intake clamp and remove the air-cleaner assembly.
• Release wiring retainers with the trim-clip removal tool. Do not pull directly on the wires.
• Use a 12mm socket and 6-inch extension to remove the battery-tray bolts, then lift out the tray.
• This exposes the driver-side transmission mount.

Step 3: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack at the front-center lifting point to raise the Optima.
• Place the jack stands beneath the reinforced front side-support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Gently shake the vehicle to verify that it is stable before going underneath.
• Use a 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool to remove the lower engine splash shield.

Step 4: Support the Powertrain

• Position the engine support bar across the protected strut-tower areas.
• Attach its chain to the factory engine lifting eye. Tighten the adjuster only until the chain becomes snug.
• Do not lift the vehicle or pull the engine upward with the support bar.
• Support the weight without changing engine height.

Step 5: Replace the Passenger-Side Engine Mount

• Mark the original mount position with the paint marker.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, extensions, and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners and mount-to-body fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar slightly until the fasteners slide freely, then remove the mount.
• Position the new mount against the paint marks. Start every nut and bolt by hand to prevent crossed threads.
• Use the alignment punch only to align the holes; never force bolts through a misaligned mount.
• Use the torque wrench with the appropriate socket to tighten the M10 mount fasteners to 49-59 Nm (36-44 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench with the appropriate socket to tighten the M12 mount fasteners to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Driver-Side Transmission Mount

• Use the paint marker to mark the transmission mount’s installed position.
• Confirm the transmission remains supported by the engine support bar.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, extensions, and breaker bar to remove the mount-to-transmission and mount-to-body fasteners.
• Adjust the engine support bar only enough to unload the mount, then remove it.
• Install the new mount and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten M10 fasteners to 49-59 Nm (36-44 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench to tighten M12 fasteners to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Front Roll-Stop Mount

• The roll-stop mount limits forward-and-back powertrain movement during acceleration and braking.
• Locate the front roll-stop mount below the radiator area using the LED work light.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, extensions, and breaker bar to remove its through-bolt and bracket fasteners.
• Remove the old mount and compare its orientation with the replacement.
• Install the new mount with its molded arrow or orientation mark matching the original.
• Use the alignment punch to center the holes without prying against the rubber.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten M10 bracket fasteners to 49-59 Nm (36-44 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench to tighten the M12 through-bolt to 107-127 Nm (79-94 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Replace the Rear Roll-Stop Mount

• Locate the rear roll-stop mount between the rear of the powertrain and front subframe using the LED work light.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 12-inch extension, and breaker bar to remove the through-bolt and bracket fasteners.
• If the mount cannot clear the exhaust or subframe without forcing it, stop. Subframe lowering requires powertrain support and alignment equipment and is not a beginner procedure.
• When clearance is available, remove the old mount and install the replacement in the same orientation.
• Use the alignment punch to align the holes and install every fastener by hand.
• Use the torque wrench to tighten M10 bracket fasteners to 49-59 Nm (36-44 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench to tighten the M12 through-bolt to 107-127 Nm (79-94 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Remove the Engine Support

• Inspect all four mounts with the LED work light. Confirm that no hoses, wiring, or heat shields are trapped.
• Slowly loosen and remove the engine support bar.
• Watch each mount while unloading the support. The powertrain should settle only slightly.

Step 10: Reassemble the Engine Bay

• Install the battery tray using the 12mm socket. Tighten its fasteners securely without overtightening the thin tray.
• Reinstall all wiring retainers using the trim-clip removal tool.
• Install the air-cleaner assembly using the 10mm socket and Phillips No. 2 screwdriver.
• Install the battery and hold-down using the 10mm socket.
• Connect the positive cable first and negative cable last using the 10mm wrench.

Step 11: Reinstall the Splash Shield and Lower the Vehicle

• Install the splash shield using the 10mm socket and trim-clip removal tool.
• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the Optima slowly and remove the rear wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine with the transmission in Park. Listen for knocking, metal contact, or excessive vibration.
• ✅ Hold the brake firmly and shift slowly through Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. The engine should move slightly without clunking.
• ✅ If vibration is worse, shut the engine off and check for a twisted mount, trapped bracket, loose fastener, or exhaust contact.
• ✅ Take a short, low-speed test drive. Avoid hard acceleration until the installation has been checked.
• ✅ Reinspect all accessible mount fasteners and surrounding hoses after the test drive.
• ✅ The clock and saved radio settings may need to be restored after battery reconnection.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹65,000-₹120,000, approximately $775-$1,430 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹28,000-₹60,000, approximately $335-$715 (parts only)

You Save: ₹37,000-₹60,000, approximately $440-$715, by doing it yourself!

Local labor rates vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours, with additional labor if rear-mount access requires subframe movement.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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