🔧 Pilot - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Pilot means supporting the engine safely, removing the worn mounts, and installing new ones in the same positions. Bad mounts can cause vibration, clunking, harsh shifting feel, or engine movement when shifting between Drive and Reverse.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, exhaust, or the transmission.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid level ground. Never work under your Pilot supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the engine harness or starter area.
• ⚠️ Engine mounts can shift suddenly when bolts are removed. Keep fingers away from pinch points.
• ⚠️ AWD models have less working room around the rear/lower mount area, so work slowly and do not pry against aluminum housings.
• ⚠️ A torque wrench is required. Under-tightened or over-tightened mount bolts can cause noise, vibration, or mount failure.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch extension set
• 1/2-inch extension set
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block 12-inch minimum
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right upper engine mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Pilot on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move the cable away from the battery post.
• 🧰 Let the engine cool completely before working around the exhaust and radiator area.
• 📌 An engine support bar is a tool that rests across the upper body structure and holds the engine from above while mounts are removed.
• 📌 If you do not have an engine support bar, a floor jack with a wide wood block can support the engine from below, but do not lift on the oil pan without spreading the load with wood.
• 📌 Replace one mount at a time. This keeps the engine aligned and makes bolt holes easier to line up.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Pilot at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved front pinch weld or subframe support points.
• Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Never trust a jack alone.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• Keep the clips organized. Replace broken clips during reassembly.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Install the engine support bar across the upper engine bay following the tool maker’s instructions.
• Attach the support chain to a secure engine lifting point.
• Lightly tension the engine support bar until it just supports the engine weight.
• If using a floor jack, place a 12-inch minimum wood block between the jack pad and the engine support area, then lift only enough to support the engine.
• Do not raise the engine more than needed. You only want to hold its weight.

Step 4: Remove the Right Upper Engine Mount

• Use a 10mm socket to remove intake duct or cover fasteners if they block access to the right upper mount.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
• Remove the bolts while keeping light tension on the engine support bar.
• Lift the old right upper engine mount out of the engine bay.
• Install the new right upper engine mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts by hand first. This prevents cross-threading, which means damaging the bolt threads.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the mount fasteners to the Honda service spec for this mount location. Common Honda J35 mount fasteners in this area are typically tightened in the 40-70 ft-lbs range, but use the exact spec supplied with your mount or repair data.
• Hand-start every bolt first.

Step 5: Replace the Front Engine Mount

• Work from underneath the front of your Pilot with safety glasses on.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the front mount bracket bolts as equipped.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the larger through-bolt. A through-bolt is the long bolt that passes through the center of the mount.
• Remove the through-bolt and mount fasteners.
• Slide the front engine mount out of its bracket.
• Position the new front engine mount in the same direction as the original.
• Use the floor jack or engine support bar to move the engine very slightly until the bolt holes line up.
• Install the through-bolt by hand first, then install the remaining bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the front mount fasteners to the Honda service spec for this mount location. Larger mount through-bolts are commonly in the 65-90 ft-lbs range, but verify the exact spec for the fastener supplied.

Step 6: Replace the Rear Engine Mount

• The rear engine mount sits toward the firewall side of the engine and is the tightest one to reach on your Pilot.
• Use a work light to locate the rear mount from underneath.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, extensions, and a breaker bar to loosen the rear mount bracket fasteners.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the rear mount through-bolt.
• Support the engine steadily with the engine support bar while the rear mount is disconnected.
• Remove the rear mount from the subframe area.
• Install the new rear engine mount in the same orientation as the original.
• Use the engine support bar or floor jack to make tiny height adjustments until the through-bolt slides in by hand.
• Install all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the rear mount fasteners to the Honda service spec for this mount location. Larger rear mount fasteners are commonly in the 65-90 ft-lbs range, but use exact Honda repair data for final torque.
• Do not force misaligned bolts.

Step 7: Replace the Transmission Mount

• Keep the engine/transmission assembly supported with the engine support bar.
• Use a 10mm socket to move any harness brackets or small retainers blocking the transmission mount.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount bracket fasteners.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the mount through-bolt if equipped.
• Remove the old transmission mount.
• Install the new transmission mount in the same position.
• Start all fasteners by hand first.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the transmission mount fasteners to the Honda service spec for this mount location. Common mount fasteners are typically in the 40-90 ft-lbs range depending on bolt size and position.

Step 8: Final Mount Alignment and Tightening

• Use the engine support bar to let the engine settle naturally onto the new mounts.
• Check that no mount is twisted or preloaded. Preloaded means the rubber is being pulled sideways before the engine even runs.
• Use a torque wrench to recheck every mount bolt and through-bolt.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any removed brackets, intake ducts, or harness retainers.

Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Raise the splash shield into place.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to install the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the splash shield bolts.
• Tighten splash shield bolts snug only. Do not over-tighten plastic or small underbody fasteners.

Step 10: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Pilot slowly to the ground.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the battery terminal snugly so it cannot rotate by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for abnormal vibration, knocking, or movement.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, then back to Park. The engine should move slightly but not jump or clunk.
• ✅ Check that no wiring, hoses, or intake ducts are rubbing against the engine or mounts.
• ✅ Road test gently at low speed first. Listen for clunks during acceleration and braking.
• ✅ Recheck visible mount fasteners after the first drive if accessible.
• ✅ If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock, radio presets, and one-touch window function if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.