🔧 Canyon - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Canyon involves safely supporting the engine, removing the worn mounts, and installing new mounts in the same positions. Engine mounts hold the engine steady and reduce vibration felt in the cab.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts. The engine can shift suddenly and cause injury or damage.
• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. Use jack stands on solid, level ground.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and engine cool completely before starting.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, wiring, or engine brackets.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan to spread the load. Do not jack directly on the bare aluminum oil pan.
• ⚠️ Replace mounts one side at a time so the engine stays aligned.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch extension set
• 1/2-inch extension set
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty)
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount-to-frame bolts - Qty: as required
• Engine mount-to-bracket nuts - Qty: as required
• Underbody shield clips - Qty: as required

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Canyon on level ground and let the engine cool fully.
• Shift to Park for automatic transmission or Neutral for manual transmission, then set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm wrench.
• An engine support bar is a tool that rests across the fender rails and holds the engine from above while mounts are removed.
• If you do not have an engine support bar, use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum with a wood block 2x6-inch under the oil pan only to support the engine’s weight, not to lift the truck.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front frame crossmember to raise the front of your Canyon.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
• Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum nearby for supporting the engine.
• Shake the truck gently to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Shields

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a trim clip remover to remove plastic push clips from the lower splash shield if equipped.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any shield bolts.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Preferred method: install the engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty) across the upper fender rail areas and attach it to a strong engine lifting point.
• Alternative method: place the wood block 2x6-inch on the pad of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the flat reinforced area of the oil pan.
• Raise the jack only until it lightly supports the engine. Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.
• Support means gentle pressure, not lifting force.

Step 4: Locate the Engine Mounts

• Use a work light to look along each side of the lower engine.
• The engine mounts sit between the engine brackets and the frame/crossmember.
• The mount is the rubber-and-metal part that absorbs engine movement.

Step 5: Remove the Right Engine Mount Fasteners

• Start on the passenger side/right side.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 1/2-inch extension set to loosen the upper engine mount nut or bolt.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with the 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the lower mount-to-frame bolts.
• If a bolt is tight, use a 1/2-inch breaker bar carefully.
• Leave one bolt threaded a few turns until the engine is adjusted in the next step.

Step 6: Lift the Engine Slightly for Clearance

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum very slowly to raise the engine about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch.
• If using the engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty), turn the support screw slowly to raise the engine slightly.
• Watch hoses, wiring, exhaust, and fan shroud clearance while lifting.
• Use a work light to confirm nothing is stretching.

Step 7: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Remove the last loose bolt with the correct 15mm socket or 18mm socket.
• Slide the right mount out by hand.
• If it sticks, use a pry bar 18-inch gently to free it.
• Do not pry against aluminum engine parts.

Step 8: Install the New Right Engine Mount

• Compare the new right engine mount to the old mount before installing it.
• Place the new mount into the same position and orientation.
• Start all mount bolts and nuts by hand first to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum or engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty) to slightly adjust engine height until the bolt holes line up.
• Snug the fasteners with an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch ratchet, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 9: Remove the Left Engine Mount Fasteners

• Move to the driver side/left side.
• Use a work light to inspect access around the steering shaft, frame, and engine bracket.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 1/2-inch extension set to loosen the upper engine mount nut or bolt.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the lower mount-to-frame bolts.
• Use an 18mm wrench if space is too tight for the socket.

Step 10: Remove the Left Engine Mount

• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum or engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty) until the mount is free.
• Remove the remaining fastener with the correct 15mm socket or 18mm socket.
• Slide the mount out by hand.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch gently only if needed.

Step 11: Install the New Left Engine Mount

• Compare the new left engine mount to the old mount.
• Install the mount in the same position and orientation.
• Start all bolts and nuts by hand first.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum or engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty) to align the bolt holes.
• Snug the fasteners with an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch ratchet.

Step 12: Tighten the Engine Mount Fasteners

• Make sure both mounts are seated flat against their brackets and frame pads.
• Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct 15mm socket or 18mm socket.
• Tighten engine mount-to-frame bolts to Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs).
• Tighten engine mount-to-engine bracket nuts/bolts to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• If your replacement hardware includes different instructions, follow the hardware supplier torque sheet.

Step 13: Remove Engine Support

• Slowly lower the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the engine rests fully on the new mounts.
• If using the engine support bar 1,000-lb rated (specialty), slowly release tension and remove it.
• Use a work light to check that both mounts remain seated correctly.

Step 14: Reinstall the Lower Shields

• Raise the splash shield into position by hand.
• Use a trim clip remover or your fingers to reinstall the plastic push clips.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to reinstall any shield bolts.
• Tighten shield bolts snugly to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 15: Reconnect the Battery and Lower the Truck

• Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm wrench.
• Tighten the battery terminal nut to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Canyon slowly to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while watching the engine for abnormal movement.
• Shift from Park to Reverse and Drive while holding the brake firmly, if equipped with automatic transmission.
• For manual transmission, lightly load the engine by easing the clutch only in a safe open area.
• Listen for clunks, rattles, or exhaust contact.
• Take a short low-speed test drive and recheck for vibration.
• After the test drive, inspect the mounts again with a work light to confirm nothing shifted.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$680 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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