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2018 Ford Edge
2015 - 2018 Ford Edge
V6 3.5L

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FORD EDGE ENGINE MOUNT REPLACEMENT REMOVAL. LINCOLN MKX.How to fix vibration?

FORD EDGE ENGINE MOUNT REPLACEMENT REMOVAL. LINCOLN MKX.How to fix vibration?

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8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
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or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
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18mm
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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015-2018 Ford Edge (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2015-2018 Ford Edge (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

🔧 Edge - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine in position and absorb vibration so the cabin stays smooth and the drivetrain stays aligned. On your Edge, the common serviceable engine mounts include the passenger-side upper engine mount, transmission-side mount, and lower torque strut mount; replace the failed mount or replace them as a set if multiple are cracked, collapsed, or leaking.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours depending on mount location


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount. Never let the engine hang from hoses, wiring, or exhaust parts.
  • ⚠️ Never place any part of your body under an engine supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and engine or transmission to spread the load and prevent damage.
  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands if the vehicle must be raised.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the battery tray, starter wiring area, or major engine harness routing.
  • ⚠️ Some mounts are torque-to-yield-style service fasteners on many Ford repairs. Replace mount fasteners if the replacement mount instructions include new bolts or nuts.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 13mm wrench
  • 15mm wrench
  • 18mm wrench
  • Ratchet
  • Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
  • 3-inch extension
  • 6-inch extension
  • Universal joint socket adapter 1/2-inch drive
  • Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Wood block 2x6-inch
  • Plastic trim removal tool set
  • Panel clip removal pliers
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Paint marker
  • Work light
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Passenger-side upper engine mount - Qty: 1 if replacing passenger-side mount
  • Driver-side transmission mount - Qty: 1 if replacing transmission-side mount
  • Lower engine torque strut mount - Qty: 1 if replacing lower torque mount
  • Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1 recommended
  • Front underbody shield clips - Qty: 4-8 recommended if damaged

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Edge on flat, solid ground.
  • Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool completely before working near the exhaust or radiator fan area.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable if replacing the passenger-side upper mount or transmission-side mount.
  • A torque strut mount is a lower mount that limits engine rocking when you accelerate or shift gears.
  • A breaker bar is a long handle used to loosen tight bolts without damaging a ratchet.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Inspect and Identify the Failed Mount

  • Use a work light to inspect the passenger-side upper engine mount, driver-side transmission mount, and lower torque strut mount.
  • Look for cracked rubber, separated rubber, metal-to-metal contact, fluid leakage from the mount, or excessive engine movement.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the mount being replaced so you stay organized.
  • Tip: Replace mounts in pairs if vibration remains.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle if Needed

  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to lift the front of your Edge if replacing the lower torque strut mount or accessing lower fasteners.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Keep the floor jack available for supporting the engine or transmission.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield if Needed

  • Use a 7mm socket if equipped with small perimeter screws.
  • Use an 8mm socket for larger underbody shield screws if equipped.
  • Use a plastic trim removal tool or panel clip removal pliers to remove plastic push clips.
  • Lower the splash shield and set it aside.

Step 4: Support the Engine or Transmission

  • Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the floor jack saddle.
  • For the passenger-side upper engine mount, position the wood block under a solid flat area of the engine oil pan, not on the drain plug.
  • For the driver-side transmission mount, position the wood block under a solid flat area of the transmission case.
  • For the lower torque strut mount, support the engine lightly only if the engine shifts when the mount bolts are loosened.
  • Raise the floor jack just until it contacts and supports the engine or transmission. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.

Step 5: Replace the Passenger-Side Upper Engine Mount

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove any intake duct, coolant reservoir bracket, or wiring retainers blocking access to the passenger-side mount.
  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to release wiring retainer tabs as needed.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the mount position on the body bracket.
  • Use a 15mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the engine-side mount nuts or bolts.
  • Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the body-side mount bolts.
  • Adjust the floor jack slightly with the wood block until the bolts slide out without binding.
  • Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to remove the mount fasteners completely.
  • Lift the old mount out of the engine bay.
  • Set the new passenger-side upper engine mount in place by hand.
  • Start all bolts and nuts by hand before tightening.
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct socket to tighten body-side mount bolts. Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct socket to tighten engine-side mount fasteners. Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall removed brackets or intake duct using a 10mm socket. Torque small bracket bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Driver-Side Transmission Mount

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove battery hold-down hardware if the battery blocks access.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove battery cable terminals, then lift the battery out with both hands.
  • Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove the battery tray fasteners.
  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to release wiring retainers from the battery tray area.
  • Support the transmission with the floor jack and wood block 2x6-inch.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the mount position.
  • Use a 15mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen mount-to-transmission fasteners.
  • Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen mount-to-body fasteners.
  • Adjust the floor jack slightly until the bolts are not under tension.
  • Use a 15mm socket and 18mm socket to remove the fasteners completely.
  • Remove the old transmission mount by hand.
  • Install the new driver-side transmission mount by hand and start all bolts by hand.
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct socket to tighten mount-to-body fasteners. Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct socket to tighten mount-to-transmission fasteners. Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
  • Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to reinstall the battery tray. Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery hold-down. Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Lower Torque Strut Mount

  • Access the lower torque strut mount from underneath the front of your Edge.
  • Use a work light to locate the mount connecting the lower engine/transmission bracket to the subframe area.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the mount orientation before removal.
  • Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the mount through-bolts.
  • Use an 18mm wrench on the nut side if the bolt spins.
  • Use the floor jack with the wood block 2x6-inch to shift the engine slightly only if the bolts bind.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the bolts and nuts.
  • Remove the old lower torque strut mount by hand.
  • Install the new lower torque strut mount in the same orientation.
  • Start the bolts and nuts by hand.
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs with an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to tighten the lower torque strut fasteners. Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Recheck Mount Alignment

  • Use the floor jack to make small height adjustments only if mount holes do not line up.
  • Make sure all mounts sit flat against their brackets.
  • Make sure no hoses, wiring, or ground straps are pinched under a mount.
  • Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to recheck all mount fasteners after the engine support jack is lowered.

Step 9: Reinstall Shields and Lower the Vehicle

  • Use a plastic trim removal tool to line up the splash shield clips.
  • Use a 7mm socket or 8mm socket to reinstall splash shield screws. Torque to 3 Nm (27 in-lbs).
  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands.
  • Lower your Edge slowly to the ground.

Step 10: Reconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the positive battery cable first if it was removed.
  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable last. Torque to 5-7 Nm (44-62 in-lbs).
  • Make sure the battery terminals cannot rotate by hand.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
  • ✅ Listen for knocking, clunking, or vibration near the replaced mount.
  • ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and back to Park.
  • ✅ Watch for excessive engine movement during shifting. A small movement is normal.
  • ✅ Take a short test drive and check for vibration during acceleration and braking.
  • ✅ Recheck visible mount fasteners after the test drive if accessible.
  • ✅ If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and one-touch window function if needed.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,600 depending on how many mounts are replaced

DIY Cost: $120-$650 depending on mount count and quality

You Save: $400-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.


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