How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2014 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2014 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014, 2015
🔧 Tucson - Engine Mount Replacement
Engine mounts hold the engine and transmission steady while absorbing vibration. On your Tucson, mount replacement usually involves supporting the powertrain from below, replacing one mount at a time, and tightening the fasteners with the engine sitting naturally in place.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never remove more than one engine or transmission mount at a time.
- ⚠️ The engine must be supported before any mount bolts are loosened.
- ⚠️ Use a wood block between the floor jack and oil pan to spread the load and avoid cracking the pan.
- ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the oil pan; only apply light support pressure.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount brackets and body while raising or lowering the engine.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or main engine harness.
- ⚠️ Always support your Tucson with jack stands before working underneath it.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension
- Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Wood block 2x6-inch
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-head screwdriver medium
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Paint marker
- Magnetic parts tray
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right engine mount - Qty: 1
- Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
- Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
- Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount fasteners - Qty: As needed
- Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: 4-8 recommended
📋 Before You Begin
- 🚗 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🚗 Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
- 🚗 Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- 🚗 Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- 🚗 Use a paint marker to mark each old mount’s position before removal. This helps you line up the new mount.
- 🚗 A roll stopper mount is a lower mount that limits engine rocking during acceleration and shifting.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands and shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it is stable.
Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the splash shield bolts.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-head screwdriver medium to remove plastic clips.
- Set the shield aside and place fasteners in a magnetic parts tray.
Step 3: Support the Engine and Transmission
- Place a wood block 2x6-inch on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
- Position the jack under a flat, strong area of the engine oil pan.
- Raise the jack only until the wood block touches the pan and lightly supports the engine.
- Do not raise the vehicle off the jack stands.
- Support weight, don’t lift hard.
Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount
- The right engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay near the upper timing cover area.
- Use a paint marker to mark the mount position before loosening it.
- If access is tight, use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to move small brackets or covers blocking the mount.
- Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
- Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
- Adjust the engine height slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the bolts slide out without binding.
- Remove the old mount by hand.
- Install the new right engine mount in the same position.
- Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
- Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range and 17mm socket to tighten the right mount body bolts to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
- Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range and 17mm socket to tighten the right mount engine bracket bolts to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Replace the Left Transmission Mount
- The left transmission mount is on the driver side, attached between the transmission and body.
- Move the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch so it lightly supports the transmission case.
- Use a paint marker to mark the mount position.
- Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the transmission mount fasteners.
- Use a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar with a 17mm socket if bolts are tight.
- Raise or lower the jack slightly until the bolts remove smoothly.
- Remove the old mount by hand.
- Install the new left transmission mount and start all fasteners by hand.
- Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range and 17mm socket to tighten the transmission mount fasteners to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Replace the Front Roll Stopper Mount
- The front roll stopper mount is accessed from underneath at the lower front of the engine/transmission assembly.
- Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the roll stopper fasteners.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch only to gently align the mount holes if needed.
- Remove the old front roll stopper mount.
- Install the new front roll stopper mount and start all bolts by hand.
- Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range, 14mm socket, and 17mm socket to tighten the front roll stopper fasteners to Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Replace the Rear Roll Stopper Mount
- The rear roll stopper mount is accessed from underneath near the rear side of the engine/transmission assembly.
- Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the rear roll stopper fasteners.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch gently if the bolt holes need slight alignment.
- Remove the old rear roll stopper mount.
- Install the new rear roll stopper mount and hand-start all fasteners.
- Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range, 14mm socket, and 17mm socket to tighten the rear roll stopper fasteners to Torque to 78 Nm (58 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Settle the Powertrain Before Final Check
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lower the engine/transmission support slightly so the mounts carry the weight naturally.
- Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range and the correct socket size to recheck all mount fasteners.
- Confirm wiring, hoses, and brackets are not stretched or trapped near any mount.
- Everything should sit relaxed.
Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield
- Lift the splash shield into place by hand.
- Install replacement underbody splash shield clips by hand where old clips broke.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall splash shield bolts.
- Tighten the splash shield bolts snugly; do not overtighten plastic panels.
Step 10: Lower the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower your Tucson slowly to the ground.
- Remove the wheel chocks.
Step 11: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back on the battery terminal.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to tighten the negative battery terminal clamp.
- Make sure the cable does not twist by hand.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle with the hood open.
- ✅ Watch the engine while shifting from Park to Reverse and Drive with your foot firmly on the brake.
- ✅ A small amount of movement is normal. Heavy clunking or jumping means a mount or bracket needs rechecking.
- ✅ Test drive at low speed first, then check for vibration, thumps, or exhaust contact noises.
- ✅ Recheck visible mount fasteners after the first drive once the vehicle is safely parked and cooled.
- ✅ Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost after the battery was disconnected.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $450-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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