🔧 Forester - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Forester means supporting the engine, unbolting the worn mounts, and installing new mounts in the same positions. Engine mounts hold the engine steady and reduce vibration, so worn mounts can cause clunks, shaking at idle, or harsh movement when shifting between Drive and Reverse.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount bolts. Never let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, the exhaust, or the transmission.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid ground. A floor jack alone is not safe for working under your Forester.
• ⚠️ Do not place the jack directly on the aluminum oil pan without a wide wood block. The pan can crack or dent.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and engine cool before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended because your hands and tools will be near the starter cable area and engine wiring.
• ⚠️ Replace mounts one side at a time when possible to keep the engine aligned.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch extension set
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 12-inch minimum
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount flange nuts and bolts - Qty: 1 set
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Forester on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that stop the vehicle from rolling.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back to the terminal.
• Mark the original mount positions with a paint marker before loosening bolts. This helps keep the new mounts aligned.
• This repair requires lifting and supporting the engine. If the engine shifts suddenly or the vehicle feels unstable, stop and re-support everything before continuing.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Forester at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before going underneath.
• Never work under a jack only.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 12mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• If clips break, replace them during reassembly.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 12-inch minimum on the floor jack saddle.
• Position the wood block under a strong, flat area of the engine support area near the oil pan, spreading the load as widely as possible.
• Slowly raise the floor jack until the wood block just contacts the engine.
• Raise only enough to take the engine weight off the mounts. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• A floor jack supports weight from below. The wood block spreads the pressure so the engine is not damaged.
• Small jack movements are best.

Step 4: Mark the Mount Locations

• Use a paint marker to outline where each engine mount bracket sits against the crossmember.
• Mark the left and right mounts separately so you can compare alignment during installation.
• This helps prevent vibration caused by a mount sitting slightly crooked.

Step 5: Loosen the Right Engine Mount

• Work on the right-side mount first.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen the upper engine mount fastener.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, or 19mm socket as fitted to loosen the lower mount-to-crossmember fasteners.
• Use a 1/2-inch breaker bar if the bolts are tight. A breaker bar is a long handle that gives extra leverage.
• Do not fully remove all fasteners until the engine is safely supported.

Step 6: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use the floor jack with wood block to raise the engine slightly, about 1/4 inch at a time.
• Watch hoses, wiring, exhaust parts, and the radiator fan area while lifting.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, or 19mm socket to remove the right mount fasteners completely.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only if needed to gently guide the mount out. Do not force against aluminum parts.
• Remove the right engine mount from the vehicle.

Step 7: Install the New Right Engine Mount

• Set the new right engine mount into the same position as the old one.
• Use your paint marker alignment marks to position it correctly.
• Install the fasteners by hand first. Hand-starting means turning the bolts with your fingers to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, or 19mm socket to snug the fasteners, but do not fully tighten yet.
• Lower or raise the floor jack slightly until the bolts slide in without force.
• Torque mount-to-crossmember fasteners to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs)
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket fastener to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs)

Step 8: Loosen the Left Engine Mount

• Move to the left-side engine mount.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to loosen the upper engine mount fastener.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, or 19mm socket to loosen the lower mount-to-crossmember fasteners.
• Keep the floor jack and wood block in place under the engine.
• If access is tight, use a 3/8-inch extension set with the ratchet.

Step 9: Remove the Left Engine Mount

• Use the floor jack to adjust engine height slightly until the left mount is no longer loaded.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, or 19mm socket to remove the left mount fasteners.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch to gently guide the mount out only if necessary.
• Remove the left engine mount from the vehicle.
• Compare the old and new mounts before installing. The shape and stud locations must match.

Step 10: Install the New Left Engine Mount

• Place the new left engine mount into position.
• Use the paint marker marks to align the mount with the crossmember.
• Install all bolts and nuts by hand first.
• Use the floor jack to make tiny height adjustments until the fasteners thread in smoothly.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, or 19mm socket to snug the fasteners.
• Torque mount-to-crossmember fasteners to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs)
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket fastener to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Lower the Engine onto the New Mounts

• Use the floor jack to lower the engine slowly onto both mounts.
• Watch the mounts as the weight settles. The rubber should sit naturally, not twisted.
• Use the torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs to recheck all mount fasteners.
• Recheck torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs)

Step 12: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Lift the splash shield back into place by hand.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or flat-blade screwdriver to install the plastic clips.
• Use a 12mm socket to install any splash shield bolts.
• Torque splash shield bolts to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs)

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Forester slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks after the vehicle is fully on the ground.

Step 14: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the terminal until it is snug and cannot rotate by hand.
• Torque battery terminal nut to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle in Park. Listen for knocking, rattling, or unusual vibration.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then to Drive. The engine should move slightly, not jump hard.
• Check underneath for anything touching the exhaust, crossmember, or splash shield.
• Take a short, gentle test drive. Avoid hard acceleration at first.
• After the test drive, recheck the mount fasteners with the torque wrench if accessible.
• If the idle feels rough after battery disconnect, drive normally for several miles so the idle control can relearn.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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