🔧 Highlander - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine in place and reduce vibration. On your Highlander, replacing the mounts means safely supporting the engine, removing the worn mount, and installing the new one without stressing hoses, wiring, or the exhaust.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use jack stands on solid, level ground.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount. The mount carries engine weight.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the oil pan directly. Use a wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the engine, body, and mount brackets when raising or lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the starter, alternator wiring, or main harness areas.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting. Exhaust and brackets can stay hot for a long time.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch extension set
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transaxle mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts and nuts kit - Qty: 1
• Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: 1 pack

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Highlander on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧊 Let the engine cool completely before touching mounts or brackets.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move it aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 📌 This guide covers the engine mount set. If replacing only one mount, follow the matching mount section and leave the others installed.
• 📌 A “breaker bar” is a long handle used to loosen tight bolts without damaging a ratchet.
• 📌 A “torque wrench” tightens bolts to a measured specification so they are not too loose or too tight.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Highlander at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the front side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine later.
• Shake gently to verify stability.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a trim clip remover to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any 10mm splash shield bolts.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.
• Save the clips if they are not broken.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place the wood block 2x6-inch minimum on the floor jack saddle.
• Position the floor jack under the engine oil pan with the wood block touching the pan evenly.
• Raise the jack only until it lightly supports the engine. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Watch the radiator hoses, wiring, and exhaust while lifting.
• Support, do not jack high.

Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• The right engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any nearby brackets or covers blocking access.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position before removal.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the mount-to-bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the larger mount fasteners.
• Raise or lower the engine very slightly with the floor jack until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Remove the right engine mount from the vehicle.
• Install the new right engine mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten right engine mount fasteners to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs) for smaller bracket bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten larger mount fasteners to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Left Transaxle Mount

• The left transaxle mount is on the driver side and supports the transmission side of the powertrain.
• Move the floor jack and wood block so the transaxle is lightly supported, if access allows.
• Use a 10mm socket to move any harness brackets out of the way without pulling on the wires.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position.
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the mount bolts and nuts.
• Use a 17mm wrench if a nut spins while loosening with the socket.
• Raise or lower the supported powertrain slightly until the mount is loose.
• Remove the old left transaxle mount.
• Install the new left transaxle mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten mount-to-body fasteners to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten smaller bracket fasteners to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Front Engine Mount

• The front engine mount is accessed from underneath near the front lower side of the engine cradle.
• Use the floor jack and wood block to keep the engine lightly supported.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the front mount through-bolt.
• A through-bolt is the long bolt that passes through the center of the mount.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount bracket bolts, depending on bolt size.
• Use a 17mm wrench to hold the nut if needed.
• Remove the front engine mount.
• Install the new front engine mount with the same orientation as the old mount.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the front mount through-bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten bracket bolts to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Rear Engine Mount

• The rear engine mount is accessed from underneath toward the firewall side of the engine cradle.
• Use safety glasses because dirt often falls from this area.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the rear mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount bracket bolts.
• Use needle-nose pliers to release any nearby clip from the bracket, if equipped.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to remove tension from the mount.
• Remove the rear engine mount from the cradle area.
• Install the new rear engine mount and hand-start all bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the rear mount through-bolt to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten bracket bolts to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Patience helps here.

Step 8: Final Alignment and Fastener Check

• Use the floor jack to gently lower the engine so its weight rests on the new mounts.
• Check that no hoses, wiring, or brackets are pinched.
• Use the torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to recheck every mount fastener you removed.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any wiring brackets or small covers removed earlier.
• Make sure all mount bolts started cleanly and are fully seated.

Step 9: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Lift the splash shield back into position by hand.
• Use a trim clip remover or flathead screwdriver to reinstall the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to reinstall the splash shield bolts.
• Tighten splash shield bolts snugly by hand with the ratchet. Do not over-tighten plastic shield fasteners.

Step 10: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

• Use the floor jack to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Highlander slowly to the ground.
• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the battery terminal snugly.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle while watching for unusual movement or vibration.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and listen for clunks.
• ✅ Take a short, gentle test drive around the block.
• ✅ Recheck under the hood and underneath for loose brackets, rattles, or shifted hoses.
• ✅ If vibration is worse than before, stop driving and recheck mount orientation and bolt tightness.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $850-$1,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $600-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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