🔧 Fusion - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Fusion helps reduce vibration, clunking, and engine movement during acceleration or shifting. This repair involves safely supporting the engine, removing the worn mount, and installing the replacement mount without stressing hoses, wiring, or drivetrain components.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. The mount holds engine weight.
• ⚠️ Never place any part of your body under an unsupported engine or vehicle.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan to spread the load and prevent damage.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine more than needed. Too much movement can damage hoses, wiring, exhaust parts, or CV axles.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the battery tray or power wiring.
• ⚠️ Replace mounts one at a time so the engine stays correctly positioned.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive extension set
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench, 10-150 ft-lb range
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block, 2x6-inch minimum
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

Tip: If only one mount is failed, you can replace that mount only. If vibration is severe, inspect all three mounts.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Fusion on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. A negative cable is the black battery cable marked with a minus symbol.
• 🖊️ Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount before removal. This helps the new mount sit in the same place.
• 🛠️ A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured amount. This matters because mounts carry heavy engine loads.
• ⚠️ Assumption: This guide covers the main engine mount set on your Fusion: passenger-side engine mount, transmission mount, and rear lower torque mount.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use wheel chocks to secure the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Fusion at the front subframe lift point.
• Place jack stands under the approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack available because you will use it to support the engine.
• Give the car a gentle shake test.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a 7mm or 8mm socket, depending on the fasteners installed, to remove the lower splash shield screws.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic push clips.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block on the saddle of the floor jack.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan near the passenger side.
• Slowly raise the floor jack until the wood block just contacts the oil pan.
• Raise only enough to support the engine weight. Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Support, don’t lift.

Step 4: Remove the Passenger-Side Engine Mount Access Parts

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the engine appearance cover fasteners if equipped.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the air intake duct clamps and fasteners as needed for access.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to release intake duct clips carefully.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove battery hold-down hardware if the battery blocks access.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove battery tray fasteners if needed.
• Set removed parts aside in order.

Step 5: Remove the Passenger-Side Engine Mount

• Use a paint marker to outline the mount position on the body bracket.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to loosen the mount-to-body fasteners.
• If a bolt feels loaded, use the floor jack to raise or lower the engine a tiny amount until the bolt turns easily.
• Remove the mount fasteners fully and lift the mount out.
• Install the new passenger-side engine mount by hand-starting all bolts first.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the passenger-side engine mount fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) unless the replacement fastener kit specifies otherwise.
• Start all bolts before tightening.

Step 6: Replace the Rear Lower Torque Mount

• The rear lower torque mount is the mount underneath that limits engine rocking during acceleration.
• Move under the front of the vehicle with safety glasses on.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the bolt through the rear lower torque mount at the subframe side.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the bolt through the rear lower torque mount at the engine/transaxle bracket side.
• Remove the old torque mount.
• Install the new rear lower torque mount in the same orientation.
• Hand-start both bolts before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the rear lower torque mount bolts to Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs) unless the replacement fastener kit specifies otherwise.

Step 7: Support the Transmission Side

• Move the floor jack and wood block under the transmission case, not the thin transmission pan area.
• Raise the floor jack only until it supports the transmission weight.
• Do not lift the transmission high enough to move the vehicle on the stands.

Step 8: Remove the Transmission Mount Access Parts

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery hold-down bracket if not already removed.
• Lift the battery straight out carefully.
• Use a 10mm socket or 13mm socket to remove the battery tray fasteners.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to release wiring retainers from the tray if needed.
• Remove the battery tray to expose the transmission mount area.

Step 9: Replace the Transmission Mount

• Use a paint marker to mark the mount location before removal.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, or 21mm socket to loosen the transmission mount fasteners.
• Use the floor jack to slightly adjust the transmission height if the bolts bind.
• Remove the transmission mount fasteners and lift out the old mount.
• Set the new transmission mount in place.
• Hand-start all mount bolts before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the transmission mount fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs) unless the replacement fastener kit specifies otherwise.

Step 10: Reinstall Removed Components

• Use a 10mm socket or 13mm socket to reinstall the battery tray.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten battery tray fasteners snugly to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Reinstall the battery carefully.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery hold-down.
• Use a 10mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to reinstall the air intake duct and clips.
• Use an 8mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield.

Step 11: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the cable clamp until it cannot rotate by hand.
• Do not overtighten the battery terminal clamp because it can crack.

Step 12: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Fusion slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower the vehicle slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for one minute.
• ✅ Watch the engine while a helper shifts from Park to Reverse and Drive with the brake held firmly.
• ✅ A small amount of engine movement is normal. A hard clunk or large jump is not normal.
• ✅ Check that the air intake duct is fully seated and all battery connections are tight.
• ✅ Road test at low speed first. Listen for clunks during light acceleration and braking.
• ✅ If the battery was disconnected, the idle may relearn during the first drive. Let the engine idle with accessories off for a few minutes.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,250 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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