🔧 Fusion - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Fusion uses three main powertrain mounts: the right-side engine mount, left-side transmission mount, and lower rear roll restrictor. Replacing all three involves supporting the engine and transmission, removing each mount one at a time, and carefully aligning the new mounts before tightening them.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

Assumption: This procedure covers replacement of all three mounts on the stock 2.5L powertrain.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Support the powertrain before loosening any mount.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan; direct jack contact can crack or deform the pan.
• ⚠️ Replace only one mount at a time so the powertrain cannot shift excessively.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers away from gaps between mounts and brackets while moving the engine.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the battery and transmission mount.
• ⚠️ Allow the engine and exhaust system to cool completely.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm deep socket
• 18mm deep socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 6-inch socket extension
• 12-inch socket extension
• 7-150 ft-lb torque wrench
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim-clip removal tool
• Engine support bar rated 1,000 pounds minimum
• Hydraulic floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Rubber wheel chocks
• 12-inch square hardwood block
• Work light rated for automotive use
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Lower rear roll restrictor mount - Qty: 1
• Mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📍 Park your Fusion on firm, level ground. Shift into Park and apply the parking brake.
• 🛞 Place rubber wheel chocks tightly against both sides of a rear tire.
• 🔑 Switch the ignition off and move the key away from the vehicle.
• 🧊 Wait until the engine and exhaust are completely cool.
• 🔩 Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• 🏗️ An engine support bar spans the upper body rails and holds the engine from above. Use it whenever an upper mount is removed.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Vehicle

• Use the hydraulic floor jack at the front subframe’s reinforced center lifting area.
• Place the two jack stands beneath the reinforced front support points, then lower the vehicle onto them.
• Gently shake the body to confirm it is stable before going underneath.
• Keep the hydraulic floor jack beneath the subframe as a secondary support without lifting the vehicle.

Step 2: Support the Powertrain

• Install the 1,000-pound engine support bar across the reinforced upper body rails.
• Attach its chain to a factory engine lifting eye and remove slack without lifting the vehicle.
• Place the hardwood block on the hydraulic floor jack and position it beneath a broad, reinforced section of the oil pan.
• Raise the jack only until the wood contacts the pan. Do not lift the engine yet.
• Support weight; never crush the oil pan.

Step 3: Remove the Right-Side Engine Mount

• Use an 8mm socket or trim-clip removal tool to remove any fasteners obstructing the coolant reservoir area.
• Move the coolant reservoir aside without disconnecting or sharply bending its hoses.
• Use a 15mm deep socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket nuts.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket, as fitted, to remove the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use the hydraulic floor jack in very small movements until the studs are unloaded and the mount lifts out freely.
• Do not raise the engine more than necessary; watch the hoses, wiring, and exhaust flex joint.

Step 4: Install the Right-Side Engine Mount

• Compare the new mount with the removed mount. The studs, locating tabs, and bracket angle must match.
• Lower the new mount into position and start every fastener by hand.
• Use the hydraulic floor jack to align the engine naturally. Never pull the mount into alignment with its bolts.
• Use the torque wrench with the correct socket to tighten the mount-to-body fasteners to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench and 15mm deep socket to tighten the mount-to-engine bracket nuts to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the coolant reservoir and tighten its small fasteners snugly with the 8mm socket; do not overtighten plastic attachments.

Step 5: Remove the Battery and Air Cleaner

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the positive battery terminal after the negative terminal is already disconnected.
• Use a 13mm socket and extension to remove the battery hold-down.
• Lift the battery straight out using both hands. Keep it upright.
• Use an 8mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the air-intake clamp and release the intake connections.
• Remove the air-cleaner housing from its rubber retainers.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery tray fasteners, then lift out the tray.

Step 6: Remove the Left-Side Transmission Mount

• Adjust the engine support bar so the transmission is fully supported without lifting it.
• Use a 15mm deep socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-transmission fasteners.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket, as fitted, to remove the mount-to-body fasteners.
• Make tiny adjustments with the engine support bar until the fasteners slide out without binding.
• Lift the transmission mount from the engine compartment.

Step 7: Install the Left-Side Transmission Mount

• Compare the new and old mounts, checking the stud pattern and locating features.
• Position the new mount and start all fasteners by hand.
• Adjust the engine support bar until the mount sits flat and centered without sideways tension.
• Use the torque wrench with the appropriate socket to tighten the mount-to-body fasteners to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench with the appropriate deep socket to tighten the mount-to-transmission fasteners to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the Battery Area Components

• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery tray and tighten its fasteners securely.
• Press the air-cleaner housing completely into its rubber retainers.
• Reconnect the intake duct and tighten its clamp using an 8mm socket.
• Lower the battery into the tray.
• Use a 13mm socket to reinstall the hold-down so the battery cannot move.
• Reconnect the positive terminal with a 10mm socket, but leave the negative terminal disconnected until all mounts are installed.

Step 9: Remove the Lower Rear Roll Restrictor

• From beneath the vehicle, locate the roll restrictor between the powertrain and front subframe. A roll restrictor limits forward-and-back engine movement.
• Use the work light to inspect the surrounding exhaust, wiring, and shields before loosening anything.
• Use an 18mm or 21mm socket with the breaker bar to loosen the horizontal through-bolt.
• Use the appropriate 15mm, 18mm, or 21mm socket to remove the subframe-side fastener.
• Make a very small adjustment with the hydraulic floor jack if the through-bolt binds.
• Remove the roll restrictor from the subframe opening.

Step 10: Install the Lower Rear Roll Restrictor

• Match the new restrictor’s orientation to the removed part.
• Insert the mount and start both fasteners by hand.
• Use the hydraulic floor jack only as needed to center the bolt holes.
• Use the torque wrench and appropriate socket to tighten the subframe-side fastener to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Use the torque wrench and appropriate socket to tighten the horizontal through-bolt to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Use the work light to verify that no wiring, hoses, or shields were trapped.

Step 11: Remove Supports and Reconnect the Battery

• Slowly release the hydraulic floor jack while watching all three mounts.
• Remove the engine support bar only after confirming the mounts carry the powertrain normally.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery terminal securely.
• Use the hydraulic floor jack to raise the front, remove the jack stands, and lower your Fusion completely.

Step 12: Perform a Final Inspection

• Use the work light to check that all tools are removed and every connector, hose, and intake duct is secure.
• Use the torque wrench for a final check of all accessible mount fasteners.
• Do not place hands near the engine while another person starts it.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine with the transmission in Park. Listen for knocking and check for excessive vibration.
• 🦶 Hold the brake pedal firmly and shift slowly through Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. Do not press the accelerator.
• 🔍 Stop immediately if the engine jumps, a mount shifts, or metal contacts the body.
• 🚗 Take a short, low-speed test drive and listen during acceleration, braking, and gear changes.
• 🔧 Reinspect all visible mounts and fasteners after the test drive.
• 🕒 The clock and automatic window functions may need resetting after the battery disconnect.
• 🪟 To relearn a window, fully close it and hold the switch upward for approximately two seconds.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹55,000-₹95,000, depending on imported-part availability and local labor

DIY Cost: ₹25,000-₹55,000 for parts

You Save: ₹30,000-₹40,000 by doing it yourself!

Panipat labor rates vary, and imported U.S.-spec Fusion parts can significantly affect the total. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.