🔧 Outback - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Outback involves safely supporting the engine, removing the lower mount nuts and brackets, lifting the engine slightly, and swapping the mounts. Worn mounts can cause vibration, clunks during takeoff, or excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount hardware. Never let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, exhaust, or the transmission.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid ground. A jack is for lifting only, not for holding the vehicle while you work underneath.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers away from the engine mount brackets while raising or lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool completely before working underneath the engine.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended because you will be working around the starter-side area and engine wiring. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch extension set
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• Torque wrench, 10-100 ft-lb range
• Floor jack, rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands, rated 2-ton minimum
• Wood block, 2x6-inch minimum
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar, 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount lower nuts - Qty: 2
• Engine mount bracket bolts - Qty: 4
• Underbody splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Outback on level ground, set the parking brake, and place the transmission in 1st gear.
• ❄️ Let the engine and exhaust cool fully before starting.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• 🛞 Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands.
• 📌 A torque wrench tightens bolts to a specific force so the parts are secure without being over-tightened.
• 📌 A breaker bar is a long-handled ratchet used to loosen tight bolts more easily.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Outback at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the front pinch welds or front subframe support points.
• Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.
• Keep the floor jack nearby because you will use it to support the engine.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 12mm socket to remove any splash shield bolts.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• Tip: Save clips in a cup.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block on the floor jack saddle. The wood spreads the load so the jack does not dent the oil pan.
• Position the jack and wood block under the flat reinforced area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack slowly until the wood just contacts the oil pan.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands. You only want to support the engine weight.

Step 4: Mark the Mount Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the current position of each engine mount stud and bracket.
• This helps you line up the new mounts during installation.
• Look closely at both lower mount studs where they pass through the front crossmember.

Step 5: Remove the Engine Mount Lower Nuts

• From underneath, use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lower nut from the left engine mount.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lower nut from the right engine mount.
• If the nuts are tight, use a 1/2-inch breaker bar with the correct socket.
• Do not raise the engine yet.

Step 6: Loosen the Pitch Stopper

• The pitch stopper is the small upper engine support link near the firewall that limits front-to-back engine movement.
• From the top of the engine bay, use a 14mm socket to loosen the pitch stopper bolts.
• Remove the front bolt only if extra movement is needed.
• On reassembly, Torque pitch stopper bolts to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Raise the Engine Slightly

• Use the floor jack to raise the engine slowly, about 1 inch at a time.
• Watch the radiator hoses, heater hoses, exhaust, wiring, and intake duct as the engine moves.
• Stop as soon as the mount studs clear the crossmember.
• Do not force anything. If something is tight, lower the engine and inspect.

Step 8: Remove the Engine Mount Bracket Bolts

• Use a 14mm socket, extension, and ratchet to remove the bolts holding the left engine mount to the engine bracket.
• Use a 14mm socket, extension, and ratchet to remove the bolts holding the right engine mount to the engine bracket.
• Use a pry bar only for gentle positioning if the mount is stuck.
• Do not pry against thin aluminum covers or the oil pan.

Step 9: Remove the Old Mounts

• Slide the left engine mount out from underneath.
• Slide the right engine mount out from underneath.
• Compare each old mount to the new mount before installing.
• Make sure the mounting studs and bracket angles match side-to-side.

Step 10: Install the New Mounts

• Position the left engine mount in the same orientation as the original.
• Start the mount-to-engine bracket bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Position the right engine mount and start its bolts by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket to snug the mount-to-engine bracket bolts, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 11: Lower the Engine onto the Crossmember

• Use the floor jack to lower the engine slowly.
• Guide both mount studs into the crossmember holes.
• Use a pry bar gently if the studs need minor alignment.
• Make sure both mounts sit flat before tightening.

Step 12: Tighten the Engine Mount Hardware

• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the engine mount-to-bracket bolts. Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lower engine mount nuts. Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs).
• If your replacement mount uses larger lower nuts, use the matching 17mm or 19mm socket and tighten to the same specification unless the part maker states otherwise.

Step 13: Reinstall the Pitch Stopper

• Use a 14mm socket to reinstall or tighten the pitch stopper bolts.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts. Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).
• Check that the engine is sitting evenly and the pitch stopper is not twisted.

Step 14: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Lift the splash shield back into position.
• Use a 12mm socket to reinstall the splash shield bolts. Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
• Use your hands and trim clip removal tool to reinstall the plastic clips.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Reconnect the Battery

• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle slowly.
• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable. Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for unusual vibration or knocking.
• ✅ With the parking brake firmly set, gently blip the throttle and watch that the engine movement is controlled.
• ✅ Test drive at low speed first. Listen for clunks during takeoff, shifting, and deceleration.
• ✅ Recheck the lower mount nuts after the test drive if access allows.
• ✅ After reconnecting the battery, reset the clock and any radio presets if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $500-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $380-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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