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2012 Jeep Wrangler
2012 - 2017 Jeep Wrangler
V6 3.6L

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Jepp wrangler, engine mount change 

Jepp wrangler, engine mount change 

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
16mm
16mm
Socket
or (5/8")
18mm
18mm
Socket
or (11/16")
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How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2012-2017 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L V6 (Engine: V6 3.6L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2012-2017 Jeep Wrangler 3.6L V6 (Engine: V6 3.6L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Wrangler - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold your Wrangler’s 3.6L V6 securely to the frame while allowing a small amount of rubber cushioning for vibration. Replacing worn mounts helps reduce clunks, shaking, driveline movement, and harsh vibration at idle or when shifting between Drive and Reverse.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool engine. Exhaust and engine brackets can burn you.
  • ⚠️ Support the engine from below before removing any mount bolts. Never let the engine hang unsupported.
  • ⚠️ Use a wide wood block between the floor jack and oil pan to spread the load. Do not jack directly on the bare oil pan.
  • ⚠️ Keep fingers out from between the engine mount, brackets, and frame while raising or lowering the engine.
  • ⚠️ Replace one side at a time. This keeps the engine aligned and safer to control.
  • ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is recommended because you’ll be working near the starter area and engine harness routing.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 16mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • 3/8-inch extension set
  • 1/2-inch extension set
  • 18mm wrench
  • 21mm wrench
  • Torque wrench, 10-150 ft-lb range
  • Floor jack, rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands, rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Wood block, approximately 12-inch x 12-inch
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Penetrating oil
  • Shop light
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Left engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Right engine mount - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount through-bolts and nuts - Qty: 2
  • Engine mount bracket bolts - Qty: As needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Wrangler on level ground.
  • Shift into Park for automatic transmission or 1st gear for manual transmission.
  • Set the parking brake firmly.
  • Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Move the cable away from the battery post.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the engine mount fasteners and let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
  • A through-bolt is the long bolt that passes through the center of the rubber engine mount.
  • A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not loose or over-tightened.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Wrangler

  • Use a floor jack, rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Wrangler from the front axle tube or front frame crossmember area.
  • Place jack stands, rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
  • Lower the Wrangler gently onto the jack stands.
  • Keep the floor jack nearby because it will be used to support the engine.
  • Shake gently to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove Lower Access Items

  • If equipped with a lower splash shield or aftermarket skid plate, use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket to remove the retaining bolts.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool for any plastic push clips.
  • Set all bolts and clips aside in order.

Step 3: Support the Engine

  • Place the wood block, approximately 12-inch x 12-inch on the saddle of the floor jack, rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Position the wood block under the flat, reinforced area of the engine oil pan.
  • Raise the jack slowly until the wood just contacts the oil pan.
  • Lift only enough to take engine weight off the mounts. Do not raise the vehicle body.
  • Small movements are safer.

Step 4: Loosen the Left Engine Mount Through-Bolt

  • Start on the left side of the engine bay, driver side on a U.S.-market Wrangler.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to loosen the engine mount through-bolt and nut.
  • If the bolt is tight, use a 1/2-inch breaker bar with the 18mm socket.
  • Do not fully remove the bolt until the engine is safely supported.

Step 5: Remove the Left Engine Mount Fasteners

  • Use a 15mm socket, 16mm socket, or 18mm socket as fitted to remove the mount-to-frame fasteners.
  • Use a 3/8-inch extension set or 1/2-inch extension set to reach bolts blocked by the frame or engine accessories.
  • Remove the through-bolt completely with the 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
  • Raise the engine slightly with the floor jack until the mount can slide out.
  • Watch hoses, wiring, fan shroud clearance, and exhaust clearance while lifting.

Step 6: Install the New Left Engine Mount

  • Position the new left engine mount in the same orientation as the old mount.
  • Lower or raise the engine slightly with the floor jack until the bolt holes line up.
  • Install the mount-to-frame bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Install the through-bolt and nut by hand.
  • Use the 15mm socket, 16mm socket, or 18mm socket to snug the mount-to-frame bolts.
  • Use the 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to snug the through-bolt.
  • Do not fully torque yet. Final torque is done after both mounts are installed and the engine is settled.

Step 7: Loosen the Right Engine Mount Through-Bolt

  • Move to the right side of the engine bay, passenger side on a U.S.-market Wrangler.
  • Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to loosen the right engine mount through-bolt and nut.
  • Use a shop light to check for wiring, A/C lines, and exhaust heat shield clearance.
  • If needed, use a 1/2-inch breaker bar with the 18mm socket.

Step 8: Remove the Right Engine Mount Fasteners

  • Use a 15mm socket, 16mm socket, or 18mm socket as fitted to remove the mount-to-frame fasteners.
  • Use the 3/8-inch extension set or 1/2-inch extension set for better reach.
  • Remove the through-bolt with the 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
  • Raise the engine slightly with the floor jack only as much as needed to remove the mount.
  • Never force the mount out.

Step 9: Install the New Right Engine Mount

  • Set the new right engine mount into place in the same orientation as the old mount.
  • Adjust the engine height slowly with the floor jack until the holes align.
  • Start all bolts and the through-bolt by hand.
  • Use the 15mm socket, 16mm socket, or 18mm socket to snug the mount-to-frame bolts.
  • Use the 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to snug the through-bolt and nut.

Step 10: Settle the Engine Before Final Tightening

  • Slowly lower the floor jack until the engine weight rests fully on both new mounts.
  • Check that both mounts sit flat and are not twisted.
  • Gently rock the engine by hand from the top of the engine bay. Use your hands only, not a pry bar.
  • Confirm that the fan shroud, hoses, wiring, and exhaust parts are not touching anything they should not touch.

Step 11: Torque the Engine Mount Fasteners

  • Use a torque wrench, 10-150 ft-lb range with the correct socket for each fastener.
  • Tighten the engine mount through-bolts to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
  • Tighten the engine mount-to-frame fasteners to Torque to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).
  • If a bracket was loosened from the engine block, tighten those bracket bolts to Torque to 68 Nm (50 ft-lbs).
  • Torque slowly and evenly.

Step 12: Reinstall Lower Access Items

  • Reinstall any splash shield or skid plate removed earlier.
  • Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket to tighten the retaining bolts.
  • Reinstall plastic clips using your hands or a trim clip removal tool.

Step 13: Reconnect the Battery and Lower the Wrangler

  • Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
  • Use the floor jack, rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands, rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower your Wrangler carefully to the ground.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Look for abnormal vibration, clunks, or contact between the engine and nearby parts.
  • With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse and then Drive. Listen for clunks.
  • Take a short, gentle test drive.
  • After the test drive, recheck the mount area with a shop light for loose bolts or shifted parts.
  • If the battery was disconnected, reset the clock and radio presets if needed.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$300 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.


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