🔧 Engine Mounts - Replacement

This repair replaces the engine mounts on your F-150. Engine mounts hold the engine in place and isolate vibration; worn mounts can cause clunks, shaking at idle, or excessive engine movement during acceleration.

On your F-150, the engine must be safely supported from below before the mount fasteners are removed.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount fasteners.
• ⚠️ Never place your hands between the engine, frame, and mount brackets while lifting or lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands to support the truck. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and turbocharger areas cool fully before working nearby.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the starter, wiring, or frame grounds.
• ⚠️ Lift the engine only enough to unload the mounts. Too much lift can damage hoses, wiring, exhaust parts, and fan shroud clearance.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 13mm wrench
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch drive extension set
• 1/2-inch drive extension set
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench rated 20-250 Nm
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Engine support bar (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Work light
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
• Front underbody shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your F-150 on level ground.
• Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a paint marker to mark mount/bracket positions before removal. This helps keep alignment close during reassembly.
• An engine support bar spans the fenders and supports the engine from above; use it if access from below is tight.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Front of the Truck

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the front frame crossmember to raise the front of your F-150.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
• Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the truck lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the Front Underbody Shield

• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the underbody shield bolts if equipped.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic retainers if equipped.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.
• Tip: Keep bolts grouped by location.

Step 3: Inspect Access to Both Engine Mounts

• Use a work light to locate the left and right engine mounts between the engine brackets and frame brackets.
• Check for wiring, hoses, steering shaft clearance, and front axle clearance.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position on the bracket before loosening fasteners.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch minimum on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the jack and wood block under a solid, flat part of the engine oil pan area.
• Raise the jack just until the wood block contacts the engine and the engine weight is lightly supported.
• Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.
• If using an engine support bar (specialty), install it across the fender edges and lightly tension the engine support chain.

Step 5: Loosen the Right Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive extension set to loosen the mount-to-frame fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket as fitted to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use a universal joint socket adapter where the socket does not line up straight.
• Do not remove all fasteners yet. Loosen them first so the engine stays controlled.

Step 6: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the engine very slowly, only enough to unload the right mount.
• Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the right mount-to-frame fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the right mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch gently only if the mount is stuck in the bracket.
• Remove the right engine mount from the engine bay or from underneath, depending on clearance.

Step 7: Install the Right Engine Mount

• Compare the new right engine mount with the old mount before installation.
• Position the new mount into the frame and engine bracket.
• Start all fasteners by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to slightly raise or lower the engine until the holes line up.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the fasteners.
• Final torque is done after both mounts are installed and the engine weight is settled.

Step 8: Loosen the Left Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive extension set to loosen the left mount-to-frame fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to loosen the left mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use a universal joint socket adapter for tight angles near the frame and front axle area.
• Keep the engine supported while these bolts are loosened.

Step 9: Remove the Left Engine Mount

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift or lower the engine slightly until the left mount is unloaded.
• Use an 18mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the left mount-to-frame fasteners.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the left mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch gently if the mount is stuck.
• Remove the left engine mount carefully.

Step 10: Install the Left Engine Mount

• Compare the new left engine mount with the old mount before installation.
• Position the new mount into place.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to slightly move the engine until the holes line up without force.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the fasteners.

Step 11: Settle the Engine onto the Mounts

• Slowly lower the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the engine weight rests evenly on both new mounts.
• If using an engine support bar (specialty), slowly release tension after the engine is resting on the mounts.
• Check that the mounts sit flat and the paint marks are close to their original positions.

Step 12: Torque the Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench rated 20-250 Nm with the correct socket to tighten the engine mount fasteners.
• Torque mount-to-frame fasteners to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• If your replacement fastener kit gives a different torque, follow the fastener kit instructions.

Step 13: Reinstall the Front Underbody Shield

• Raise the underbody shield into position by hand.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to install the shield bolts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool by hand to help seat plastic retainers if equipped.
• Torque shield bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 14: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a torque wrench rated 20-250 Nm only if it can accurately read low torque.
• Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).

Step 15: Lower the Truck

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the truck slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your F-150 slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while watching for unusual movement.
• Shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, while holding the brake firmly.
• Listen for clunks and feel for vibration.
• Check that no hoses, wiring, intake tubes, or exhaust parts were stretched or left touching the body.
• Road test gently at first, then recheck the mount area for loose fasteners or unusual noises.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $570-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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