🔧 F-150 - Engine Mount Replacement

The engine mounts support the 5.0L engine and isolate vibration from the frame. Replacing them requires safely supporting the engine from underneath, lifting it slightly, then removing and replacing the left and right mounts one side at a time.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never place any part of your body under an unsupported engine.
• 🧱 Support your F-150 with jack stands on solid, level ground before working underneath.
• 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the starter-side engine mount area.
• 🪵 Use a wide wood block between the jack and oil pan. This spreads load and helps prevent oil pan damage.
• 🚫 Do not lift the engine more than needed. Lifting too high can damage hoses, wiring, exhaust, fan shroud, or drivetrain parts.
• 🔥 Let the exhaust cool fully before starting. The engine mounts sit near hot exhaust components.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm wrench
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 3-inch extension
• 6-inch extension
• 12-inch extension
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6 inch minimum
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Penetrating oil
• Work light
• Paint marker
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount-to-frame nuts - Qty: As needed
• Engine mount-to-bracket bolts - Qty: As needed
• Engine mount heat shield fasteners - Qty: As needed

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your F-150 on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧊 Let the engine and exhaust cool for at least 1 hour.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• 🧰 A breaker bar is a long ratchet handle used to loosen tight bolts.
• 🧰 A universal joint socket adapter lets the socket bend slightly for hard-to-reach bolts.
• 📌 Spray visible engine mount nuts and bolts with penetrating oil before removal.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Truck

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum under the front crossmember to raise the front of your F-150.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
• Lower the truck gently onto the stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Never trust a jack alone.

Step 2: Remove Lower Splash Shield If Equipped

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove splash shield bolts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic push clips if equipped.
• Set the shield aside.

Step 3: Mark Mount Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the current position of each engine mount against the frame bracket.
• This helps place the new mounts close to the original alignment.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6 inch minimum on the pad of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the flat reinforced area of the oil pan, not on the drain plug.
• Raise the jack until the wood just contacts the oil pan.
• Lift only enough to take engine weight off the mounts.
• Small lift only. Do not force it.

Step 5: Remove Right Engine Mount Heat Shield If Equipped

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and 6-inch extension to remove the heat shield fasteners.
• Use a work light to check for hidden fasteners near the exhaust side.
• Remove the heat shield and set it aside.

Step 6: Loosen Right Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and universal joint socket adapter to loosen the right mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 6-inch extension to loosen the right mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• If bolts are tight, use a 1/2-inch breaker bar carefully.
• Do not remove all fasteners yet until the engine is supported.

Step 7: Lift Engine Slightly for Right Mount Clearance

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the engine slightly.
• Watch hoses, fan area, exhaust, and wiring while lifting.
• Stop as soon as the right mount is loose enough to remove.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle positioning, not heavy forcing.

Step 8: Remove Right Engine Mount

• Use an 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Guide the right engine mount out by hand.
• Compare the old and new right mount before installation.

Step 9: Install Right Engine Mount

• Set the new right engine mount into position by hand.
• Start all nuts and bolts by hand first.
• Use an 18mm socket and 15mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the fasteners.
• Do not fully torque the fasteners until both mounts are installed and the engine weight is settled.

Step 10: Loosen Left Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a work light to locate the left engine mount fasteners from below.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, 12-inch extension, and universal joint socket adapter to loosen the left mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 6-inch extension to loosen the left mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Use an 18mm wrench where a socket will not fit.

Step 11: Remove Left Engine Mount

• Raise the engine slightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum if more clearance is needed.
• Use an 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-frame nuts.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Guide the left engine mount out by hand.

Step 12: Install Left Engine Mount

• Set the new left engine mount into position by hand.
• Start every nut and bolt by hand before tightening.
• Use a 15mm socket, 18mm socket, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the mount fasteners.
• Match your paint marker alignment marks as closely as possible.

Step 13: Settle the Engine Onto the New Mounts

• Slowly lower the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum until the engine weight rests fully on both mounts.
• Check that both mounts sit flat and are not twisted.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for small alignment adjustments.

Step 14: Torque Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb with the correct socket for each fastener.
• Tighten the engine mount-to-frame nuts evenly on both sides.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the engine mount-to-engine bracket bolts evenly on both sides.
• Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Reinstall Heat Shield and Splash Shield

• Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the right mount heat shield if removed.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool as needed to reinstall the lower splash shield.
• Snug plastic shield bolts only. Do not overtighten.

Step 16: Reconnect Battery and Lower Truck

• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise your F-150 slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the truck slowly to the ground.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle while watching for abnormal movement.
• 👀 Shift from Park to Reverse and Drive with your foot firmly on the brake. The engine should move slightly, not jump.
• 🔊 Listen for clunks during light acceleration and braking.
• 🛠️ Recheck accessible mount fasteners after the first short drive.
• ⚠️ If vibration is worse, stop driving and inspect mount seating and exhaust contact.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 parts + labor

DIY Cost: $180-$450 parts only

You Save: $470-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.