🔧 Corolla - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Corolla means supporting the engine safely, removing the worn mount, and installing the new one without letting the engine shift. Engine mounts hold the engine in place and reduce vibration, clunking, and harsh movement during acceleration or shifting.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before removing any mount. A floor jack with a wood block spreads the load and helps prevent oil pan damage.
• ⚠️ Do not place the jack directly on the thin edge of the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the engine mount area to reduce accidental short risk.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time. Removing multiple mounts can let the engine shift too far.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear when raising or lowering the engine slightly.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Shop light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine torque mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount bolts and nuts - Qty: As needed
• Plastic splash shield clips - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Corolla on a level surface.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Support the engine from below using the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum and a wood block 2x6-inch minimum placed flat under the oil pan.
• A torque mount is a mount that controls engine rocking when you accelerate or shift.
• A breaker bar is a long handle used to loosen tight bolts with more leverage.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a trim clip removal tool and flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic clips from the lower engine splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any splash shield bolts.
• Lower the shield and set it aside.
• Keep clips organized by location.

Step 2: Support the Engine

• Place the wood block 2x6-inch minimum flat on the saddle of the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the flat reinforced area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack slowly until the wood just contacts the oil pan.
• Lift only enough to support the engine, not enough to raise the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Small jack movements are safer.

Step 3: Replace the Passenger-Side Engine Mount

• The passenger-side engine mount is located at the upper right side of the engine bay near the coolant reservoir area.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any brackets or wire retainers attached near the mount.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 6-inch socket extension to loosen the mount-to-body bolts and mount-to-engine bracket nuts.
• If a bolt is very tight, use a 1/2-inch breaker bar.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Remove the passenger-side engine mount from the vehicle.
• Install the new passenger-side engine mount in the same orientation.
• Start all bolts and nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the fasteners.
• Torque mount-to-body bolts to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Torque mount-to-engine bracket nuts/bolts to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Replace the Front Engine Torque Mount

• The front engine torque mount is accessed from underneath at the front lower area of the engine/transaxle assembly.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 6-inch socket extension to remove the torque mount through-bolt and bracket bolts.
• Use a 14mm combination wrench or 17mm combination wrench to hold the nut if it spins.
• Remove the old front engine torque mount.
• Install the new front engine torque mount and hand-start all bolts first.
• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to move the engine slightly if the bolt holes do not line up.
• Use a 17mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the through-bolt.
• Torque front torque mount through-bolt to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the bracket bolts.
• Torque front torque mount bracket bolts to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Rear Engine Torque Mount

• The rear engine torque mount is at the back lower side of the engine/transaxle area, near the subframe.
• Use a shop light to clearly see the mount and bolt locations.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 6-inch socket extension to loosen the mount fasteners.
• Use a 1/2-inch breaker bar if the fasteners are tight.
• Use a 17mm combination wrench or 19mm combination wrench to hold the nut if needed.
• Remove the old rear engine torque mount.
• Install the new rear engine torque mount in the same direction as the original.
• Start all bolts by hand before tightening.
• Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the fasteners.
• Torque rear torque mount through-bolt to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Torque rear torque mount bracket bolts to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs).
• Do not force misaligned bolts.

Step 6: Replace the Transmission Mount

• The transmission mount is on the driver-side upper area of the transaxle.
• Support the transmission side with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch minimum.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to move small brackets or retainers blocking access.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 6-inch socket extension to remove the transmission mount bolts and nuts.
• Adjust the jack slightly until the old transmission mount can be removed without prying hard.
• Install the new transmission mount and hand-start all fasteners.
• Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the fasteners.
• Torque transmission mount-to-body bolts to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Torque transmission mount-to-transaxle bolts/nuts to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Settle the Mounts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to slowly lower the engine/transmission weight onto the new mounts.
• Check that each mount sits flat and is not twisted.
• Use the torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to recheck all accessible mount fasteners after the engine weight is fully on the mounts.
• Final torque matters for vibration.

Step 8: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

• Raise the lower splash shield into place by hand.
• Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to reinstall any splash shield bolts.
• Torque splash shield bolts snugly to approximately 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 9: Reconnect the Battery and Lower the Vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle slowly.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start your Corolla and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
• Watch the engine. A small amount of movement is normal. Heavy rocking is not.
• Shift from Park to Reverse and Drive while holding the brake firmly. Listen for clunks.
• Take a short, gentle test drive around the block.
• Recheck for loose brackets, rattles, or unusual vibration.
• If the idle feels rough right after battery reconnection, let the engine idle with accessories off for a few minutes so the computer can relearn idle behavior.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $530-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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