🔧 Corolla - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing engine mounts on your Corolla means supporting the engine safely, removing the worn rubber mount assemblies, and installing new mounts in the correct positions. Bad mounts can cause vibration, clunking, harsh shifting feel, or engine movement when accelerating.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never place any part of your body under the engine while it is only supported by a jack.
• ⚠️ Use a floor jack with a wide wood block under the engine oil pan only to support the engine, not to lift the vehicle by the oil pan.
• ⚠️ The engine mounts hold engine weight. Remove and replace one mount at a time unless the engine is properly supported.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool before working near the exhaust, radiator, and engine brackets.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the engine bay to reduce short-circuit risk.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
• 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wood block 12-inch minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Front engine mount - Qty: 1
• Rear engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Corolla on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully before starting.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum and jack stands rated 2-ton minimum if you need underside access.
• A breaker bar is a long-handled ratchet used to loosen tight bolts safely with more leverage.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to the correct force so parts are not loose or over-tightened.
• Assumption: this procedure covers replacing all four main mounts. If only one mount is bad, replace that mount using its matching section below.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise the front of your Corolla.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side pinch welds.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands and shake the car lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Never work under a car on a jack.

Step 2: Remove Lower Splash Shield Access

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the splash shield bolts under the front of the vehicle.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic clips without breaking them.
• Set the shield and clips aside in order.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 12-inch minimum on the saddle of the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack only until the wood block gently contacts the oil pan.
• Lift just enough to take weight off the mounts. Do not deform the oil pan.
• Support gently, do not jack hard.

Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• The right engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay near the coolant reservoir area.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any small brackets or hose retainers blocking access.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket to loosen the large center mount nut or mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
• Raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum until the bolts slide out without force.
• Remove the old right engine mount.
• Install the new right engine mount by hand-starting all bolts first.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten right mount body bolts to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten right mount engine bracket fasteners to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Front Engine Mount

• The front engine mount sits low at the front of the engine, near the radiator side.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the front mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the front mount bracket bolts from the subframe.
• Adjust engine height slightly with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum until the through-bolt slides out smoothly.
• Remove the old front engine mount.
• Install the new front engine mount and hand-start all fasteners.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the front mount bracket bolts to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the front mount through-bolt to Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Rear Engine Mount

• The rear engine mount is low at the back of the engine, near the firewall side.
• Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch drive ratchet, and 1/2-inch drive 6-inch extension to access the rear mount through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the rear mount-to-subframe bolts.
• If access is tight, use a 17mm wrench to hold the nut while loosening with the socket.
• Adjust engine angle slightly with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum until the mount is free.
• Remove the old rear engine mount.
• Install the new rear engine mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten rear mount-to-subframe bolts to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the rear mount through-bolt to Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• The left transmission mount is on the driver side, supporting the transmission side of the powertrain.
• Move the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum and wood block 12-inch minimum under the transmission case, not on a thin cover.
• Raise the jack only until it gently supports the transmission.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any battery tray or air duct fasteners blocking access, if needed.
• Use a 14mm socket to loosen the transmission mount body bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket to loosen the mount-to-transmission bracket fasteners.
• Remove the old left transmission mount.
• Install the new left transmission mount and hand-start all fasteners.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten mount body bolts to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten mount-to-transmission bracket fasteners to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Settle the Engine Before Final Check

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lower the engine and transmission weight fully onto the new mounts.
• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs to recheck each fastener torque after the weight is settled.
• Check that rubber mount sections are not twisted or pinched.
• Check that hoses, wiring, and brackets are not stretched or trapped.

Step 9: Reinstall Splash Shield and Battery Cable

• Use a trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall the plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield bolts snugly.
• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the battery terminal until it does not rotate by hand. Do not over-tighten it.

Step 10: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Corolla slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for abnormal vibration or knocking.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse and Drive if automatic, or gently load the clutch if manual.
• Listen for clunks. A clunk usually means a fastener is loose or a mount is not seated correctly.
• Take a short, slow test drive. Avoid hard acceleration for the first few miles.
• After the test drive, recheck visible mount bolts with a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs if accessible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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