🔧 Expedition - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Expedition means safely supporting the 3.5L EcoBoost engine, removing the worn mounts, and installing new ones so the engine sits correctly again. Bad mounts can cause clunks, vibration at idle, drivetrain movement, or harsh shifting feel.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ The engine must be supported before any mount bolts are removed. Never rely on the mounts to hold the engine once loosened.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on solid frame points. Never work under your Expedition supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and turbo-area components cool fully before working near the engine bay or underside.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting because you will be working around the starter, wiring, and tight engine-bay areas.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine by the oil pan directly. Use a wide wood block to spread the load if supporting from below.
• ⚠️ Replace one engine mount at a time so the engine stays aligned.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 3/8-inch extension set
• 1/2-inch extension set
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Engine support bar rated 1,000 lb minimum
• Wood block 12-inch by 12-inch
• Wheel chocks
• Work light
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount-to-frame bolts - Qty: As required
• Engine mount-to-engine bracket bolts - Qty: As required
• Underbody shield clips - Qty: As required

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Expedition on a flat, solid surface and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move the cable away from the battery post.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame.
• An engine support bar is a beam that sits across the engine bay and holds the engine from above while the mounts are removed.
• If you do not have room for an engine support bar, use a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan only to gently support the engine, not to lift the vehicle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Lower Shields

• Put on safety glasses and mechanic gloves.
• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic push clips from the lower splash shield.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove the shield fasteners, depending on the fastener position.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• Keep bolts grouped by location.

Step 2: Support the Engine

• Position the engine support bar rated 1,000 lb minimum across the upper body structure according to the support bar instructions.
• Attach the support chain or hook to a solid engine lifting point.
• Lightly tension the support bar until it just supports the engine weight.
• If supporting from below, place a wood block 12-inch by 12-inch on the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum, then position it under the flat reinforced area of the oil pan.
• Raise the jack only until the wood block touches and supports the engine. Do not deform the oil pan.

Step 3: Inspect Mount Access

• Use a work light to locate the left and right engine mounts between the engine brackets and the frame.
• Use a 13mm socket or 15mm socket to remove any small brackets or heat shields blocking direct access.
• A heat shield is a thin metal cover that protects nearby parts from exhaust heat.
• Do not force wiring harnesses or hoses. Move only what is clipped or bolted in place.

Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• Start with the right side mount and leave the left side mount installed.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and extension set to loosen the mount-to-frame bolts.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a universal joint socket adapter to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• A universal joint adapter lets the socket turn at an angle in tight spaces.
• Raise the engine very slightly with the engine support bar or floor jack until the mount is no longer pinched.
• Remove the mount fasteners fully using the same sockets.
• Remove the old right engine mount from the frame pocket.
• Compare the new right engine mount to the old one before installing it.
• Install the new mount into position by hand.
• Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Snug the bolts with an 18mm socket, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 5: Replace the Left Engine Mount

• Make sure the new right mount bolts are started and snug before moving to the left side.
• Use an 18mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and extension set to loosen the left mount-to-frame bolts.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket with a universal joint socket adapter to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
• Lift or lower the engine slightly with the engine support bar or floor jack until the mount is free.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle positioning if the mount is stuck. Do not pry against aluminum engine parts.
• Remove the old left engine mount.
• Compare the new left engine mount to the old one.
• Install the new mount and start all fasteners by hand.
• Snug the bolts with an 18mm socket, but do not fully tighten yet.

Step 6: Settle the Engine on the New Mounts

• Slowly lower the engine support tension using the engine support bar or lower the floor jack slightly.
• Watch both mounts with a work light to make sure the locating tabs sit correctly in the frame brackets.
• If the holes do not line up, use the floor jack to move the engine slightly up or down.
• Do not pull bolts into alignment with force.

Step 7: Torque the Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs and the correct socket to tighten the engine mount fasteners.
• Tighten the engine mount-to-frame fasteners to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the engine mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• If any removed bolts are labeled one-time-use by the replacement parts instructions, install new bolts only.
• Torque slowly and evenly.

Step 8: Reinstall Shields and Brackets

• Reinstall any heat shields or small brackets using a 13mm socket or 15mm socket.
• Tighten small shield and bracket fasteners snugly to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) unless the replacement instructions specify otherwise.
• Raise the lower splash shield into place.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to reinstall the shield fasteners.
• Use the trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall plastic clips.

Step 9: Reconnect the Battery and Lower the Vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the battery terminal until secure. Do not overtighten.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Expedition slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you listen for clunks, rattles, or abnormal vibration.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and feel for excessive engine movement.
• Check under the vehicle with a work light to confirm nothing is loose or touching the exhaust.
• Take a short, gentle test drive and avoid hard acceleration for the first few miles.
• Recheck the mount area after the test drive for shifted brackets, loose shields, or new noises.
• If the battery was disconnected, reset clock, window auto-up functions, and any driver preferences if needed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$950 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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