🔧 Tacoma - Engine Mount Replacement

This job replaces the worn engine mounts on your Tacoma. Engine mounts are rubber-and-metal supports that hold the engine in place and absorb vibration; when they wear out, you may feel shaking, hear clunks, or see the engine move too much under load.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing mount fasteners. Do not let the engine hang from hoses, wiring, exhaust, or the transmission.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands on level, solid ground. Never work under your Tacoma with only a floor jack holding it up.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the engine bay.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan so the load is spread out and the pan is not dented.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time. This keeps the engine aligned and easier to control.
• ⚠️ Let the engine and exhaust cool fully before starting.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm wrench
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 6-inch extension
• 12-inch extension
• Universal joint socket adapter
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6-inch minimum
• Trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Penetrating oil
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Skid plate bolts - Qty: As needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that keep the truck from rolling.
• Let the engine cool completely.
• Open the hood and disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Spray the engine mount nuts and bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the position of each mount bracket before removal. This helps you line up the new mounts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front of the Truck

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tacoma at the front crossmember.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
• Lower your Tacoma gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the truck a small shake to make sure it is stable before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Skid Plate

• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the skid plate bolts.
• If any plastic clips are fitted, use a trim clip removal tool to remove them.
• Lower the skid plate and place it aside.
• Keep bolts grouped by location.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch minimum on top of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack slowly until the wood block just touches the oil pan.
• Add only light upward pressure. Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.
• The oil pan is the metal pan at the bottom of the engine that holds engine oil.

Step 4: Loosen the Left Engine Mount

• Use a paint marker to mark the left mount and bracket position.
• Use a 17mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 6-inch extension to loosen the main engine mount fastener.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the mount-to-bracket bolts.
• If a bolt is very tight, use a 1/2-inch breaker bar. A breaker bar is a long handle that gives extra leverage.
• Do not fully remove the mount until the engine is supported.

Step 5: Remove the Left Engine Mount

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the engine very slowly, about 1/4 inch at a time.
• Watch the hoses, wiring, fan shroud, and exhaust as the engine moves.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to remove the main mount fastener.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the remaining mount bolts.
• Use a universal joint socket adapter and 12-inch extension if the socket needs to reach around an angle.
• Remove the left mount from your Tacoma.
• Lift only as much as needed.

Step 6: Install the New Left Engine Mount

• Compare the new left engine mount with the old mount before installing it.
• Set the new mount into the same position as the old one.
• Start every bolt by hand first. This prevents cross-threading, which means forcing a bolt in crooked and damaging the threads.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to lightly snug the mount-to-bracket bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and 1/2-inch ratchet to lightly snug the main mount fastener.
• Do not fully torque the bolts yet.

Step 7: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• Move to the right side of the engine.
• Use a paint marker to mark the right mount and bracket position.
• Use a 17mm socket, 14mm socket, 1/2-inch ratchet, and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen and remove the right mount fasteners.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the engine slightly until the mount comes out.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle alignment. Do not force the engine sideways.
• Install the new right engine mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Snug the bolts with the matching socket and ratchet, but do not fully torque them yet.

Step 8: Settle the Engine on the New Mounts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to slowly lower the engine onto both new mounts.
• Check that both mounts sit flat.
• Make sure the bolt holes line up naturally.
• If a bolt feels tight or crooked, loosen it and slightly adjust the engine height with the jack.
• Never force a misaligned bolt.

Step 9: Torque the Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs with the correct socket to tighten the mount fasteners.
• Torque the smaller engine mount bracket bolts to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Torque the larger engine mount through-bolts or main mount nuts to Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs).
• If your new hardware includes different torque specs, follow the hardware instructions.

Step 10: Reinstall the Skid Plate

• Lift the skid plate into position by hand.
• Start all skid plate bolts by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to tighten the bolts evenly.
• Torque the skid plate bolts to Torque to 29 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reconnect the Battery

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench.
• Tighten the terminal until snug.
• Do not overtighten the battery terminal.

Step 12: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Tacoma slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Watch the engine. A small amount of movement is normal, but it should not jump or clunk.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse and Drive if your Tacoma has an automatic transmission.
• If your Tacoma has a manual transmission, press the clutch and gently rev the engine while watching for movement.
• Take a short low-speed test drive and listen for clunks during acceleration and deceleration.
• After the test drive, let the engine cool and recheck the mount fasteners.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$630 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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