How to Replace Both Taillight Bulbs on a 2013 Ford Escape (3157 Rear Outer)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 22 in-lb (2.5 Nm) torque spec for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace Both Taillight Bulbs on a 2013 Ford Escape (3157 Rear Outer)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and 22 in-lb (2.5 Nm) torque spec for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Escape - Taillight Bulb Replacement
On your Escape, the rear outer taillamps (on the body) use serviceable bulbs that you can replace by removing the lamp housing. This restores proper tail/brake/turn visibility and prevents “bulb out” warnings and unsafe lighting.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Turn the light switch OFF and remove the key before starting.
- ⚠️ Let bulbs cool first; they can burn you.
- ⚠️ Do not touch new glass bulbs with bare fingers (skin oils shorten bulb life).
- ⚠️ Support the taillamp as you pull it out so it doesn’t scratch paint.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" socket extension
- Trim panel tool
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Clean microfiber towel
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear outer taillamp bulb (3157 type) - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Dielectric grease (bulb socket safe) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the liftgate for access to the taillamp retaining screws.
- Lay a clean microfiber towel near the work area to set the lamp on.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the left taillamp screws
- Open the liftgate and locate the two taillamp retaining screws on the inboard edge of the left taillamp.
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 6" extension to remove both screws.
Step 2: Pull the taillamp housing straight back
- Grip the taillamp and pull it straight rearward to release the alignment pins (do not pry outward sideways).
- If it feels stuck, use a trim panel tool very gently at the seam and keep the force straight back. A trim tool is a plastic pry tool that helps avoid paint damage.
- Set the lamp on a clean microfiber towel to avoid scratches.
Step 3: Remove the bulb socket
- Find the main taillamp bulb socket (typically the larger socket for tail/brake/turn).
- Twist the socket counterclockwise by hand and pull it out of the housing.
Step 4: Replace the bulb
- Wear nitrile gloves and pull the old bulb straight out of the socket.
- Push the new 3157 type bulb straight in until fully seated.
- Optional: apply a very small amount of dielectric grease to the socket seal area (not on the bulb glass).
Step 5: Reinstall the socket and taillamp
- Insert the socket back into the housing and twist clockwise to lock.
- Line up the taillamp alignment pins with the body grommets and press the lamp straight in until fully seated.
- Reinstall the two screws using an 8mm socket.
- Torque to 2.5 Nm (22 in-lbs)
Step 6: Repeat on the right side
- Repeat Steps 1–5 on the right taillamp.
- Replace bulbs in pairs for equal brightness.
✅ After Repair
- Turn the ignition ON and test: parking lights, brake lights, left/right turn signals, and hazard lights.
- If a bulb doesn’t work, remove the socket and re-seat the bulb fully, then reinstall.
- Verify both taillamps are fully flush with the body (no gaps).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $80-$180 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $10-$40 (parts only)
You Save: $70-$140 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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