🔧 Escape - All Wheel Bearing Replacement

Replacing all wheel bearings on your Escape means servicing both front wheel bearings and both rear hub/bearing assemblies. The front bearings are pressed into the steering knuckles, so this job requires a hydraulic press or a portable hub/bearing press kit.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours

Assumption: This guide covers replacing both front wheel bearings and both rear wheel hub/bearing assemblies on your Escape.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Escape with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle held by a jack.
• ⚠️ Wheel bearings are safety-critical. If a bearing is installed crooked or loose, the wheel can become unsafe.
• ⚠️ The front axle nuts are very tight and must be replaced after removal.
• ⚠️ Do not let brake calipers hang by the brake hoses. Hang them with a bungee cord or wire.
• ⚠️ If your Escape has AWD, do not pull or overextend the rear axle shafts while removing rear hubs.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is not normally required for this repair.
• ⚠️ After repair, pump the brake pedal before driving so the brake pads seat back against the rotors.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs
• Impact wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 32mm axle nut socket
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Metric wrench set 10mm-21mm
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip removal tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Dead blow hammer
• Ball peen hammer
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Hub puller kit (specialty)
• Front wheel bearing press kit (specialty)
• Hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty)
• Bearing race/seal driver kit (specialty)
• Snap ring pliers (specialty)
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Slide hammer hub adapter (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner
• Shop towels
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearing - Qty: 2
• Front wheel hub - Qty: 2
• Front axle nut - Qty: 2
• Front wheel bearing snap ring - Qty: 2
• Rear wheel hub and bearing assembly - Qty: 2
• Rear hub mounting bolts - Qty: 8
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 tube
• Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the wheels that stay on the ground.
• 🔩 Loosen the 19mm lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 🛠️ Spray penetrating oil on the axle nuts, hub bolts, and brake bracket bolts before starting.
• 📌 A hydraulic press pushes the bearing in and out using steady force. If you do not have one, remove the front knuckles and have a machine shop press the bearings.
• 📌 A snap ring is a spring steel retaining clip. It locks the front bearing inside the knuckle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each wheel’s lug nuts about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Escape.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Repeat for the rear if you are doing all four bearings at once.
• Gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Wheels

• Use a 19mm socket to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove all four wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Front Axle Nuts

• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the front axle nut on each side.
• If the axle turns, have a helper press the brake pedal while you loosen the nut.
• Discard the old axle nuts. They are one-time-use fasteners.

Step 5: Remove the Front Brake Calipers and Rotors

• Use a 13mm socket to remove the front caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Use an 18mm socket to remove the front caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the brake rotor by hand. If stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer.
• During installation, tighten front caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• During installation, tighten front caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Disconnect the Front Wheel Speed Sensor

• Use a 10mm socket or trim clip removal tool to release the wheel speed sensor wire brackets from the knuckle.
• Move the wire safely aside.
• Do not pull on the wire itself.

Step 7: Free the Front Axle from the Hub

• Thread the old axle nut back on a few turns to protect the axle threads.
• Use a dead blow hammer to tap the axle inward until it moves freely in the hub.
• Remove the old axle nut again.
• If stuck, use a hub puller kit instead of hitting harder.

Step 8: Remove the Front Steering Knuckle

• Use a paint marker to mark the strut-to-knuckle position before removal.
• Use an 18mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Use a 15mm socket to remove the outer tie rod nut.
• Use a ball joint separator to separate the tie rod from the knuckle.
• Use an 18mm socket to remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch to carefully separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle.
• Remove the knuckle from the vehicle.
• During installation, tighten the front strut-to-knuckle bolts to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• During installation, tighten the outer tie rod nut to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).
• During installation, tighten the lower ball joint pinch bolt to Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Press Out the Front Hub

• Place the knuckle in a hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum.
• Use a bearing race/seal driver kit to support the knuckle correctly.
• Press the wheel hub out of the bearing.
• The inner bearing race may stay on the hub. Remove it with a bearing race/seal driver kit and press tools.
• Support only the metal areas.

Step 10: Remove the Front Bearing Snap Ring

• Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
• Clean the snap ring groove with a wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 11: Press Out the Front Bearing

• Use the hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum and front wheel bearing press kit to press the old bearing out of the knuckle.
• Make sure the knuckle is fully supported and square in the press.
• Do not press against thin aluminum edges.

Step 12: Press In the New Front Bearing

• Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean the bearing bore in the knuckle.
• Use the hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum and front wheel bearing press kit to press the new bearing into the knuckle.
• Press only on the outer race of the bearing. The race is the solid outer metal ring of the bearing.
• Install the new snap ring with snap ring pliers.
• Confirm the snap ring is fully seated in its groove.

Step 13: Press In the New Front Hub

• Use the hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum and front wheel bearing press kit to press the new hub into the bearing.
• Support the inner bearing race while pressing the hub in.
• If you do not support the inner race, the new bearing can be damaged before installation.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Knuckles

• Guide the axle shaft through the new hub by hand.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to position the lower ball joint into the knuckle.
• Install the lower ball joint pinch bolt with an 18mm socket and tighten to Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).
• Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts with an 18mm socket and 21mm wrench, then tighten to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Install the outer tie rod nut with a 15mm socket and tighten to Torque to 48 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Install New Front Axle Nuts

• Install new front axle nuts by hand first.
• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs.
• Tighten each front axle nut to Torque to 350 Nm (258 ft-lbs).
• Do not use an impact wrench for final tightening.

Step 16: Reinstall the Front Brakes

• Clean the rotor mounting face with a wire brush.
• Apply a very light coat of anti-seize compound to the hub face only.
• Install the brake rotor by hand.
• Install the caliper bracket with an 18mm socket and tighten to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Install the caliper with a 13mm socket and tighten slide pin bolts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Reattach wheel speed sensor wire brackets with a 10mm socket or trim clip removal tool.

Step 17: Remove the Rear Brake Calipers and Rotors

• Use a 13mm socket to remove the rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• Hang the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Use a 15mm socket to remove the rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the rear rotor by hand.
• If the rotor is stuck, use a dead blow hammer to tap around the rotor hat.
• During installation, tighten rear caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• During installation, tighten rear caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Disconnect the Rear Wheel Speed Sensor

• Use a 10mm socket or trim clip removal tool to release the rear wheel speed sensor wire brackets.
• Move the harness out of the way so it cannot be stretched.

Step 19: Remove the Rear Hub and Bearing Assemblies

• Use a 15mm socket to remove the four rear hub mounting bolts from the back of the knuckle.
• If the hub is rusted in place, use a slide hammer hub adapter to pull it out evenly.
• Clean the hub mounting bore with a wire brush and brake cleaner.
• Do not grind the mounting surface. It must stay flat.

Step 20: Install the New Rear Hub and Bearing Assemblies

• Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the knuckle bore, not to the bolt threads.
• Slide the new rear hub and bearing assembly into the knuckle by hand.
• Install new rear hub mounting bolts.
• Use a 15mm socket and tighten the rear hub mounting bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
• Tighten rear hub mounting bolts to Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

Step 21: Reinstall the Rear Brakes

• Install the rear rotor by hand.
• Use a 15mm socket to install the rear caliper bracket and tighten to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
• Use a 13mm socket to install the rear caliper slide pin bolts and tighten to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Reattach the rear wheel speed sensor wire brackets with a 10mm socket or trim clip removal tool.

Step 22: Reinstall the Wheels

• Install all four wheels by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Lower your Escape until the tires just touch the ground.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs and 19mm socket.
• Tighten wheel lug nuts to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 23: Final Safety Check

• Use a flashlight if available to inspect all brake hoses and wheel speed sensor wires.
• Make sure no wires are twisted, stretched, or touching the rotor.
• Use a torque wrench to recheck all lug nuts after lowering the vehicle fully.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal several times before shifting out of Park.
• ✅ Start your Escape and check for ABS, traction control, or brake warning lights.
• ✅ Test drive slowly at first. Listen for grinding, clicking, or humming.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, get a wheel alignment. Front knuckle removal can affect alignment.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
• ✅ If an ABS light appears, inspect each wheel speed sensor connector and harness routing first.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,600-$2,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $450-$950 (parts only)

You Save: $1,150-$1,850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-9 hours.

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