Assumption: This guide covers replacing both front wheel bearing/hub assemblies and both rear axle shaft bearings on your Tacoma. Front bearings are beginner-friendly; rear bearings require a hydraulic press and are advanced.

🔧 Tacoma - All Wheel Bearing Replacement

Your Tacoma uses serviceable front wheel bearing/hub assemblies and rear axle shaft bearings. The front assemblies bolt to the steering knuckle, while the rear bearings are pressed onto the axle shafts and normally require a shop press.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Tacoma with jack stands only; never work under a vehicle held up by a jack.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it off with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
• ⚠️ Rear axle bearings are press-fit. A press-fit part is squeezed tightly onto another part and needs a hydraulic press to remove safely.
• ⚠️ The rear brake system may need to be opened if brake lines are disconnected; brake bleeding will be required afterward.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is not normally required unless you are working near damaged ABS wiring.
• ⚠️ Replace rear axle seals when rear axle shafts are removed to prevent gear oil leaks.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• 21mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 10mm wrench
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch socket extension 3/8-inch drive
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Hammer 24 oz
• Dead-blow hammer 2 lb
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Brake cleaner
• Shop rags
• Drain pan 8-quart
• Hydraulic shop press 20-ton minimum (specialty)
• Bearing separator kit (specialty)
• Rear axle bearing press adapters (specialty)
• Seal driver kit (specialty)
• Slide hammer with axle puller adapter (specialty)
• Brake bleeder bottle kit (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearing and hub assembly - Qty: 2
• Rear axle shaft bearing - Qty: 2
• Rear axle bearing retainer - Qty: 2
• Rear axle ABS tone ring - Qty: 2
• Rear axle oil seal - Qty: 2
• Rear axle shaft O-ring - Qty: 2
• Rear brake backing plate gasket - Qty: 2
• Rear differential gear oil - Qty: 3 quarts
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
• Front brake caliper bracket bolts - Qty: 4
• Rear brake line sealing washers - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on level ground and set the parking brake before lifting the front.
• Place wheel chocks behind the wheels that stay on the ground.
• Loosen the wheel lug nuts before lifting the truck.
• If replacing rear bearings, release the parking brake after the truck is safely on jack stands so the rear brake drums can come off.
• Keep ABS wheel speed sensor wiring clean and unplugged only by the connector, not by pulling the wire.
• A hydraulic shop press uses controlled force to remove and install tight bearings. If you do not have one, remove the axle shafts and have a machine shop press the bearings.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen all wheel lug nuts about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Truck

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of your Tacoma at the front crossmember.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
• Repeat for the rear using the rear differential housing as the lift point, then place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
• Use wheel chocks on any wheels still touching the ground during lifting.

Step 3: Remove the Wheels

• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove all four wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Front Brake Caliper and Rotor

• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the front brake caliper bracket bolts.
• Lift the caliper and bracket off as one piece.
• Support it with a safe hanger or place it on the suspension. Do not let it hang by the brake hose.
• Slide the front brake rotor off by hand. If stuck, tap the rotor hat with a dead-blow hammer 2 lb.

Step 5: Disconnect the Front ABS Sensor

• Use a 10mm wrench to remove the ABS wire bracket bolts near the steering knuckle.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently release the connector lock.
• Move the sensor wiring away from the hub.

Step 6: Remove the Front Hub Assembly

• Use a 17mm socket, 6-inch socket extension 3/8-inch drive, and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the four front hub mounting bolts from the back of the steering knuckle.
• Use a hammer 24 oz and pry bar 18-inch to work the hub assembly loose from the knuckle.
• Clean the mounting surface with brake cleaner and shop rags.
• Do not damage the ABS wire.

Step 7: Install the New Front Hub Assembly

• Place the new front wheel bearing and hub assembly squarely into the steering knuckle.
• Use a 17mm socket, 6-inch socket extension 3/8-inch drive, and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to start all four mounting bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 17mm socket to tighten the hub mounting bolts to Torque to 95 Nm (70 ft-lbs).
• Reconnect the ABS sensor connector and use a 10mm wrench to reinstall the wire brackets.

Step 8: Reinstall the Front Brake Rotor and Caliper

• Slide the brake rotor onto the new front hub by hand.
• Set the caliper and bracket back over the rotor.
• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to install the caliper bracket bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 17mm socket to tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs).
• Repeat Steps 4-8 on the other front side.

Step 9: Remove the Rear Brake Drum

• Make sure the parking brake is released.
• Pull the rear brake drum off by hand.
• If stuck, tap around the drum face with a dead-blow hammer 2 lb.
• Use brake cleaner to clean brake dust safely.

Step 10: Disconnect Rear Brake Line and Parking Brake Cable

• Place a drain pan 8-quart under the brake backing plate.
• Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the rear brake line from the wheel cylinder if needed for axle shaft removal.
• Use needle-nose pliers to remove the parking brake cable clip.
• Move the cable away from the backing plate.

Step 11: Remove the Rear Axle Shaft

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the four rear axle retainer nuts from behind the backing plate.
• Attach the slide hammer with axle puller adapter (specialty) to the axle flange.
• Pull the axle shaft straight out of the axle housing.
• Use shop rags to catch gear oil from the axle tube.

Step 12: Press Off the Rear Bearing Assembly

• Use a hydraulic shop press 20-ton minimum (specialty) with a bearing separator kit (specialty) to support the bearing retainer.
• Press the old retainer, ABS tone ring, and bearing off the axle shaft.
• Do not heat the axle shaft with a torch.
• If you are new to press work, take the axle shaft to a machine shop for this step.

Step 13: Press On the New Rear Bearing Assembly

• Use a hydraulic shop press 20-ton minimum (specialty) and rear axle bearing press adapters (specialty) to press the new bearing, retainer, and ABS tone ring onto the axle shaft in the same order and direction as removed.
• Support only the correct bearing race while pressing. The race is the hardened ring the bearing rollers ride on.
• Install the new rear axle shaft O-ring on the axle shaft.
• Orientation matters here.

Step 14: Replace the Rear Axle Oil Seal

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully pry the old axle oil seal from the axle housing.
• Use brake cleaner and shop rags to clean the seal bore.
• Use a seal driver kit (specialty) and hammer 24 oz to tap the new seal in evenly until fully seated.

Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Axle Shaft

• Slide the axle shaft straight into the axle housing by hand.
• Be careful not to cut the new oil seal.
• Install the new rear brake backing plate gasket.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to install the four axle retainer nuts.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive and 14mm socket to tighten the axle retainer nuts to Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Reconnect Rear Brake Parts

• Use needle-nose pliers to reconnect the parking brake cable clip.
• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the brake line using new rear brake line sealing washers if the line was opened.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive and proper socket or wrench adapter to tighten the brake line fitting snugly; do not overtighten.
• Repeat Steps 9-16 on the other rear side.

Step 17: Reinstall Rear Brake Drums

• Slide each brake drum on by hand.
• If the drum will not fit, check that the parking brake is fully released.
• Use brake cleaner and shop rags to clean any oil from the drum surface.

Step 18: Refill Rear Differential Oil if Lost

• Use a 24mm socket if equipped on the fill plug; if your plug differs, use the correct fitted socket.
• Remove the rear differential fill plug before adding oil.
• Add rear differential gear oil until oil reaches the bottom edge of the fill hole.
• Reinstall the fill plug and tighten it securely.

Step 19: Bleed the Rear Brakes if Opened

• Use a 10mm wrench and brake bleeder bottle kit (specialty) at each rear wheel cylinder bleeder screw.
• Have a helper press the brake pedal slowly while you open and close the bleeder screw.
• Continue until clean fluid with no air bubbles comes out.
• Keep the brake fluid reservoir filled with DOT 3 brake fluid.

Step 20: Reinstall Wheels and Lower the Truck

• Install each wheel by hand and start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Lower your Tacoma with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 21mm socket to tighten lug nuts to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal until it feels firm before moving your Tacoma.
• ✅ Check the rear axle seals for gear oil leaks after the first short drive.
• ✅ Listen for grinding, humming, or clicking during a slow test drive.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ If the ABS warning light turns on, inspect the ABS sensor connectors and tone ring installation.
• ✅ If the rear brake line was opened, confirm the brake pedal stays firm and the fluid level remains correct.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $450-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $750-$1,300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-9 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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