🔧 Tacoma - Wheel Bearing Replacement

This job covers replacing all four wheel bearings on your Tacoma. The front wheel bearings are serviced as hub-and-bearing assemblies; the rear axle bearings are pressed onto the axle shafts and require a hydraulic press, so the rear portion is advanced work.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Tacoma only on jack stands; never work under a vehicle held by a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves when removing brakes, axle parts, and pressed bearings.
• ⚠️ Rear axle bearing removal uses a hydraulic press. A press applies high force and can launch parts if used incorrectly.
• ⚠️ Do not breathe brake dust. Use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake calipers must be hung with wire or a bungee cord. Do not let them hang by the brake hose.
• ⚠️ Replace rear axle seals during rear bearing service to prevent gear oil leaks.
• ⚠️ ABS speed sensors are fragile. Remove them gently and keep metal debris away from the sensor tips.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Impact wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 21mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 35mm axle nut socket
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Box-end wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Snap ring pliers
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Dead blow hammer
• Ball peen hammer
• Hub puller kit (specialty)
• Slide hammer hub adapter (specialty)
• Hydraulic shop press 20-ton (specialty)
• Bearing separator set (specialty)
• Bearing driver set (specialty)
• Seal driver set (specialty)
• Dial indicator with magnetic base (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hooks
• Drain pan
• Brake cleaner
• Shop towels
• Wire brush
• Anti-seize compound
• High-temperature wheel bearing grease

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel hub and bearing assembly - Qty: 2
• Rear axle bearing - Qty: 2
• Rear axle bearing retainer collar - Qty: 2
• Rear axle oil seal - Qty: 2
• Rear axle outer seal or O-ring - Qty: 2
• Rear axle snap ring - Qty: 2
• Axle shaft lock nut or stake nut - Qty: 2 if 4WD front
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• Differential gear oil - Qty: as needed for top-off

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on level ground and place wheel chocks behind the wheels that stay on the ground.
• Loosen the lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket before lifting the truck.
• If your Tacoma is 4WD, loosen the front axle nuts with a 35mm axle nut socket before lifting the front.
• A hydraulic press is a machine that pushes bearings on and off using controlled pressure. If you do not have one, remove the rear axle shafts and have a machine shop press the bearings.
• Take photos of brake hose routing, ABS wire routing, and parking brake parts before removal.
• Assumption: this procedure covers both 2WD and 4WD front layouts. Follow the step labeled for your front hub style.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Truck

• Use a 21mm socket to loosen all lug nuts 1/2 turn while the tires are still on the ground.
• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Tacoma at the front crossmember.
• Place jack stands under the frame rails and gently lower the truck onto them.
• Use the floor jack to lift the rear axle housing, then place jack stands under the frame rails.
• Use a 21mm socket to remove the wheels.
• Shake the truck gently to confirm stability.

Step 2: Remove the Front Brake Calipers and Rotors

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the two front brake caliper bracket bolts.
• Lift the caliper and bracket off as one assembly, then support it with brake caliper hanger hooks.
• Slide the rotor off by hand. If stuck, tap the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer.
• Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean dust from the work area.

Step 3: Remove the Front ABS Sensor

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the ABS sensor retaining bolt from the steering knuckle.
• Gently twist and pull the sensor out by hand.
• Use a flathead screwdriver carefully if the sensor is stuck, but do not pry against the sensor tip.
• Move the sensor and wire out of the way.

Step 4: Remove the Front Hub Assembly

• For 4WD models, use a 35mm axle nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to remove the front axle nut.
• For 4WD models, push the CV axle inward by hand. If stuck, use a dead blow hammer lightly on the axle end with the nut threaded on flush.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the four hub-to-knuckle bolts from the rear of the steering knuckle.
• Use a hub puller kit or slide hammer hub adapter to pull the hub assembly out of the steering knuckle.
• Use a wire brush to clean the hub bore in the steering knuckle.
• Clean metal surfaces prevent crooked installation.

Step 5: Install the New Front Hub Assembly

• Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the steering knuckle hub bore using a gloved finger.
• Slide the new front wheel hub and bearing assembly into the knuckle by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket to install the four hub bolts evenly.
• Torque to 59 Nm (44 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
• For 4WD models, install a new axle nut with a 35mm axle nut socket.
• Torque to 235 Nm (173 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
• If using a staked axle nut, use a flathead screwdriver and hammer to stake the nut into the axle groove.

Step 6: Reinstall the Front ABS Sensor, Rotor, and Caliper

• Install the ABS sensor by hand and tighten its bolt with a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) using a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive.
• Slide the brake rotor onto the hub by hand.
• Set the caliper bracket back over the rotor.
• Use a 17mm socket to install the caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 123 Nm (91 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
• Repeat Steps 2-6 on the other front wheel.

Step 7: Remove the Rear Brake Drum or Rear Rotor

• If equipped with rear drum brakes, release the parking brake fully.
• Pull the drum off by hand. If stuck, tap around the drum face with a dead blow hammer.
• If equipped with rear disc brakes, use a 14mm socket to remove the rear caliper bolts.
• Support the caliper with brake caliper hanger hooks.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the rear caliper bracket bolts, then slide off the rotor.

Step 8: Disconnect the Rear ABS Sensor and Parking Brake Connections

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the rear ABS sensor bolt from the axle housing.
• Pull the sensor straight out by hand and move it aside.
• Use needle-nose pliers to disconnect parking brake cable clips or retaining springs as needed.
• Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket to remove any parking brake cable brackets attached to the axle backing plate.

Step 9: Remove the Rear Axle Shaft Assembly

• Place a drain pan under the axle end because gear oil may drip out.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the four axle retainer nuts behind the backing plate.
• Pull the axle shaft straight outward by hand.
• If the axle shaft is stuck, use a slide hammer hub adapter attached to the wheel studs to pull it out evenly.
• Keep the axle shaft level to avoid damaging the inner axle seal surface.

Step 10: Press Off the Rear Bearing and Retainer

• Use snap ring pliers to remove the rear axle snap ring.
• Set the axle shaft in a hydraulic shop press 20-ton with a bearing separator set supporting the bearing area.
• Press the old retainer collar and bearing off the axle shaft using the hydraulic shop press 20-ton.
• Remove the old outer seal or O-ring from the backing plate by hand or with a flathead screwdriver.
• Press slowly and keep everything square.

Step 11: Press On the New Rear Bearing

• Clean the axle shaft bearing seat with brake cleaner and shop towels.
• Lightly coat the axle shaft bearing seat with high-temperature wheel bearing grease.
• Install the new rear bearing, backing plate, seal parts, and retainer in the same order as removed.
• Use a bearing driver set and hydraulic shop press 20-ton to press the new bearing fully onto the axle shaft.
• Use the hydraulic shop press 20-ton to press the new retainer collar into place.
• Install the new snap ring with snap ring pliers.
• Use a dial indicator with magnetic base to check that the axle shaft flange is not bent before reinstallation.

Step 12: Replace the Rear Axle Oil Seal

• Use a flathead screwdriver carefully to pry the old axle oil seal out of the axle housing.
• Wipe the seal bore clean with shop towels.
• Apply a thin coat of high-temperature wheel bearing grease to the new seal lip.
• Use a seal driver set and dead blow hammer to drive the new seal squarely into the axle housing.

Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Axle Shaft

• Slide the axle shaft straight into the axle housing by hand.
• Be gentle as the axle passes through the new oil seal.
• Install the four axle retainer nuts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 66 Nm (49 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive.
• Reconnect parking brake brackets using a 12mm socket or 14mm socket.
• Install the ABS sensor using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) using a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive.
• Repeat Steps 7-13 on the other rear wheel.

Step 14: Reinstall Rear Brakes and Wheels

• If equipped with rear drum brakes, slide the drum on by hand.
• If equipped with rear disc brakes, install the rotor by hand.
• Use a 17mm socket to install rear caliper bracket bolts.
• Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
• Use a 14mm socket to install rear caliper bolts.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive.
• Install all wheels and snug the lug nuts with a 21mm socket.
• Lower the truck with the floor jack.
• Torque wheel lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.

Step 15: Check Rear Differential Fluid Level

• Use a 24mm socket or correct-size wrench if your fill plug differs to remove the rear differential fill plug.
• Check that gear oil is level with the lower edge of the fill hole.
• Add differential gear oil if needed until it just begins to seep from the fill hole.
• Reinstall the fill plug using the same tool.
• Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal several times before moving the truck. This seats the brake pads or shoes.
• ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and listen for grinding, humming, clicking, or scraping.
• ✅ Confirm the ABS warning light stays off after driving.
• ✅ Recheck for gear oil leaks at both rear axle seals after the first drive.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• ✅ If the brake pedal feels soft or warning lights appear, stop driving and inspect the work before continuing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $450-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $950-$1,500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-9 hours.

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