🔧 Silverado 1500 - Rear Door Lock Actuator Replacement

Replace the complete rear door latch and actuator assembly. The motor is integrated into the latch inside the door. Choose the rear-left actuator for the driver side or the rear-right actuator for the passenger side.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

Assumption: These instructions cover either rear door. Connector and cable positions are mirrored side to side.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Raise the window completely before beginning. The glass must remain out of the work area.
• ⚠️ Switch the ignition off and keep the key away from your Silverado.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the latch assembly.
• ⚠️ Support the trim panel while disconnecting its wiring. Don’t let it hang from the harness.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves around the door’s inner sheet metal because its edges can be sharp.
• ⚠️ Don’t close the door until you’ve confirmed the new latch releases correctly.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4-inch drive ratchet
• 1/4-inch drive 6-inch extension
• Torx T30 bit socket
• Inch-pound torque wrench rated 20-150 in-lbs
• Plastic interior trim removal tool set
• Small flat-tip screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Painter’s tape
• Work light
• Mechanic’s gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Dorman 937-925 integrated rear-left door lock actuator - Qty: 1 for driver side
• Dorman 937-927 integrated rear-right door lock actuator - Qty: 1 for passenger side
• Door trim panel retainers - Qty: As needed
• Butyl sealing tape - Qty: 1 roll if the moisture barrier adhesive won’t reseal

Buy only the actuator matching the side being repaired. Left and right are determined while sitting in the driver’s seat. Door latches are picky about sides, because apparently being symmetrical was too easy.

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Silverado on level ground, shift into Park, and apply the parking brake.
• Raise the affected rear window fully before switching off the ignition.
• Open the affected door and cover the painted upper edge with painter’s tape.
• Use the 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Wait at least two minutes before unplugging door wiring.
• Place removed screws in separate containers so each one returns to its original location.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the interior handle trim

• Use a plastic trim removal tool to lift the small cover behind the interior door-release handle.
• Work gently around the edges. The plastic tabs can break if the cover is twisted.
• Remove the exposed fastener with the appropriate 7mm socket or Torx bit, depending on the installed fastener.

Step 2: Remove the door-pull fasteners

• Use a plastic trim removal tool to lift the cover inside the door-pull handle.
• Use the 7mm socket, extension, and ratchet to remove the exposed screws.
• Check along the lower edge of the panel and remove any remaining 7mm screws.
• Photograph each screw location before removal.

Step 3: Release the door trim panel

• Insert a plastic trim removal tool between the panel and door at a lower corner.
• Pop each retaining clip loose while working around the sides and bottom.
• Once the clips are released, lift the panel straight upward to unhook it from the window ledge.
• Keep the panel supported close to the door. Don’t pull it away sharply.

Step 4: Disconnect the trim-panel components

• Press the locking tabs and unplug the window-switch and courtesy-light connectors by hand.
• Use the small flat-tip screwdriver only if a connector lock needs gentle assistance.
• Release the interior handle cable housing from its bracket, then rotate and unhook the cable end from the handle.
• Set the trim panel face-up in a protected area.

Step 5: Open the moisture barrier

• Use the plastic trim tool to start peeling the moisture barrier away near the rear edge of the door.
• Peel back only enough material to reach the latch. Don’t cut or tear the barrier.
• Keep the factory adhesive clean so it can be reused during assembly.

Step 6: Disconnect the exterior handle linkage

• Look through the rear access opening and locate the exterior handle rod or cable connected to the latch.
• Use the small flat-tip screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to rotate the plastic retaining clip away from the linkage.
• Lift the rod from the latch lever, or release the cable housing and unhook its cable end.
• Note the routing before removal. Incorrect routing can keep the door from opening.

Step 7: Disconnect the latch wiring and lock linkage

• Press the electrical connector lock and unplug the actuator connector by hand.
• Release the interior release cable and manual-lock linkage from the latch.
• Use the small flat-tip screwdriver only on the plastic retainers. Don’t pry against the wiring.
• Compare the linkage positions with the replacement actuator before removing the old latch.

Step 8: Remove the old latch assembly

• Support the latch with one hand inside the door.
• Use the Torx T30 bit socket and ratchet to remove the three latch screws from the rear edge of the door.
• Guide the complete latch and actuator assembly through the service opening.
• Move any reusable cable brackets or clips to the new assembly in the same orientation.

Step 9: Install the new actuator and latch

• Guide the new assembly into the door without pinching the wiring or release cables.
• Start all three latch screws by hand before tightening them.
• Use the Torx T30 bit socket and inch-pound torque wrench to tighten the latch screws evenly.
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
• Reconnect the electrical plug until its locking tab clicks.

Step 10: Reconnect and verify every linkage

• Reconnect the exterior handle, interior handle, and manual-lock linkages by hand.
• Lock every plastic retainer fully around its rod or cable housing.
• Pull each release cable gently to verify that it moves the correct latch lever and returns freely.
• Check that no linkage crosses or catches the window regulator mechanism.

Step 11: Perform an open-door latch test

• Reconnect the negative battery terminal temporarily with the 10mm socket.
• Use a screwdriver shaft to rotate the latch claw into its closed position while the door remains open.
• Operate the power lock, interior handle, and exterior handle. The latch must lock, unlock, release, and reset normally.
• Pull a door handle to return the latch claw to the fully open position before attempting to close the door.
• If anything binds, disconnect the battery and correct the cable or rod routing.

Step 12: Reseal the moisture barrier

• Disconnect the negative battery terminal again with the 10mm socket.
• Press the moisture barrier firmly into its original adhesive around the entire opening.
• Add butyl sealing tape anywhere the original adhesive no longer holds.
• Keep drain openings at the bottom of the door unobstructed.

Step 13: Reinstall the door trim panel

• Reconnect the interior handle cable and all electrical connectors by hand.
• Hang the upper edge of the panel over the window ledge.
• Align each retaining clip with its hole, then press around the panel until every clip seats.
• Use the 7mm socket and ratchet to reinstall the panel screws snugly. Don’t overtighten screws threaded into plastic.
• Snap the handle and door-pull covers back into place by hand.

Step 14: Reconnect the battery

• Use the 10mm socket and torque wrench to secure the negative battery terminal.
• Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Remove the painter’s tape and check that the trim panel sits evenly around its perimeter.

---

✅ After Repair

• Test the repaired door with the key fob, driver’s lock switch, rear-door switch, and manual lock control.
• Test both inside and outside handles several times while the door is open.
• Verify that the child-safety lock works and hasn’t accidentally been left engaged.
• Close the door gently for the first test. Confirm it latches securely and releases normally.
• Operate the rear window through its full travel and listen for rubbing inside the door.
• If automatic window operation is lost, fully lower the window, then fully raise it and hold the switch for several seconds.
• Check for wind noise, water-barrier gaps, loose trim, or warning messages during a short drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 equivalent, including parts and labor

DIY Cost: Approximately $120-$150 for the actuator and common consumables

You Save: Approximately $150-$400 by doing it yourself!

Labor rates vary by area. This repair usually takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.