How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step cooling system repair with tools, parts, coolant tips, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step cooling system repair with tools, parts, coolant tips, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Radiator Hose Replacement
This repair replaces a leaking, swollen, cracked, or soft radiator hose on your Grand Cherokee. The 5.7L V8 uses an upper and lower radiator hose, and the basic process is similar, but the lower hose releases more coolant and may be tighter to reach.
Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system. Hot coolant can cause serious burns.
- ⚠️ Do not remove the coolant pressure cap while the engine is hot.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant away from pets and children. It is poisonous and can taste sweet.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands if you raise the front of the vehicle. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Dispose of used coolant properly according to local rules.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for radiator hose replacement on your Grand Cherokee.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
- Flat-blade screwdriver 1/4-inch
- 8mm nut driver
- Hose clamp pliers 45-degree (specialty)
- Slip-joint pliers 10-inch
- Pick tool 90-degree
- Coolant funnel spill-free kit (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Shop towels
- Flashlight
- Torque wrench inch-pound
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1 if replacing lower hose
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2 per hose
- Mopar-compatible OAT coolant concentrate or premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon if using concentrate
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool for at least 2-3 hours if it was recently driven.
- If replacing the lower hose, raise the front with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
- A hose clamp is the metal band that squeezes the hose tightly onto the radiator or engine fitting.
- Use only OAT coolant compatible with Chrysler/Jeep systems. Do not mix universal green coolant unless it specifically states OAT compatibility.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Let the Cooling System Cool
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Touch the upper radiator hose carefully with your hand. It should feel cool, not warm or pressurized.
- Slowly loosen the coolant pressure cap by hand only after the engine is fully cool.
- Never rush this step.
Step 2: Raise the Front if Needed
- If replacing the upper hose only, you usually do not need to raise the vehicle.
- If replacing the lower hose, place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Grand Cherokee.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points, then lower the vehicle onto the stands.
Step 3: Place the Drain Pan
- Slide the drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the radiator hose connection you are removing.
- Use a flashlight to locate the hose ends and clamp positions.
- Expect more coolant loss from the lower hose than the upper hose.
Step 4: Drain Some Coolant
- If accessible, open the radiator drain with a flat-blade screwdriver 1/4-inch and drain enough coolant so the level drops below the hose you are replacing.
- If the drain is not easily accessible, you can remove the hose slowly and let coolant drain into the pan.
- Keep shop towels nearby because coolant will spill when the hose breaks loose.
Step 5: Loosen the Hose Clamps
- For spring-style clamps, use hose clamp pliers 45-degree to squeeze the clamp tabs together, then slide the clamp back onto the hose.
- For worm-drive clamps, use an 8mm nut driver or flat-blade screwdriver 1/4-inch to loosen the clamp screw.
- If space is tight, use slip-joint pliers 10-inch carefully to move the clamp.
Step 6: Remove the Old Radiator Hose
- Twist the hose gently by hand to break it loose from the radiator or engine fitting.
- If stuck, use a pick tool 90-degree to carefully lift the hose edge. Do not gouge the plastic or aluminum fitting.
- Pull the hose off slowly and let coolant drain into the drain pan 2-gallon minimum.
- Twist first, then pull.
Step 7: Compare the New Hose
- Lay the new radiator hose next to the old hose.
- Check that the bends, length, and end diameters match.
- Use shop towels to wipe the radiator and engine hose fittings clean.
Step 8: Install the New Hose
- Slide the new radiator hose clamps onto the hose before installing the hose ends.
- Push the hose fully onto the radiator and engine fittings by hand until it seats past the raised bead on each fitting.
- The raised bead is the small lip that helps stop the hose from sliding off under pressure.
- Position each clamp behind the raised bead, not on top of it.
Step 9: Tighten or Position the Clamps
- For spring-style clamps, use hose clamp pliers 45-degree and release the clamp fully in its original position.
- For worm-drive clamps, use an 8mm nut driver and tighten evenly.
- If using worm-drive clamps, tighten only until snug. Do not crush the hose or plastic radiator neck.
- Torque to 3-4 Nm (27-35 in-lbs) for typical worm-drive hose clamps.
Step 10: Refill the Cooling System
- Install the coolant funnel spill-free kit on the coolant fill point.
- Add Mopar-compatible OAT coolant concentrate or premix.
- If using concentrate, mix it 50/50 with distilled water before filling.
- Fill slowly to reduce trapped air.
Step 11: Bleed Air from the System
- Leave the coolant funnel spill-free kit installed.
- Start the engine and set the cabin heat to maximum temperature with the fan on low.
- Let the engine idle while watching the coolant level in the funnel.
- As air bubbles escape, add more coolant as needed.
- Use the flashlight to check around both hose ends for leaks.
Step 12: Warm Up and Final Check
- Let the engine reach normal operating temperature.
- Watch the temperature gauge. It should stay in the normal range.
- Once the upper hose gets warm and firm, coolant is circulating.
- Shut the engine off and let it cool fully.
- Top off the coolant reservoir to the proper cold level using Mopar-compatible OAT coolant.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks after the first full warm-up and again after the first drive.
- Recheck coolant level only when the engine is cold.
- If the temperature gauge rises above normal, shut the engine off and let it cool before inspecting.
- If you smell coolant or see steam, stop driving and recheck the hose seating and clamp positions.
- Dispose of old coolant safely at a recycling or service facility.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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