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2018 Ford Expedition
2018 - 2022 Ford Expedition
V6 3.5L

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2015-2017 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator Heater Core Hose Replacement/Repair -- Ecoboost 3.5L

2015-2017 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator Heater Core Hose Replacement/Repair -- Ecoboost 3.5L

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Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
Drain
Drain
Pan
Flathead
Flathead
Screwdriver
8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
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How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2018-2022 Ford Expedition (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, parts, coolant bleeding, and torque specs for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2018-2022 Ford Expedition (Engine: V6 3.5L)

Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, parts, coolant bleeding, and torque specs for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022

Orion
Orion

🔧 Expedition - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose on your Expedition means draining some coolant, removing the old hose, installing a new hose, and refilling/bleeding the cooling system. A swollen, cracked, leaking, or soft hose can cause coolant loss and engine overheating, so replace it before it fails completely.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never open the coolant reservoir cap when the engine is hot. Hot coolant is pressurized and can cause serious burns.
  • ⚠️ Let your Expedition cool for at least 2-3 hours before starting.
  • ⚠️ Keep coolant away from pets and children. It is toxic and often smells sweet.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Coolant can irritate skin and eyes.
  • ⚠️ Dispose of old coolant properly. Do not pour it on the ground or into drains.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for radiator hose replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
  • Flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip
  • 8mm socket
  • 1/4-inch drive ratchet
  • Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
  • Slip-joint pliers 10-inch
  • Plastic trim clip tool
  • Funnel with narrow spout
  • Coolant refractometer or hydrometer (specialty)
  • Shop towels
  • Torque wrench inch-pound range

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Radiator hose - Qty: 1
  • Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
  • Motorcraft Yellow Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant 50/50 - Qty: 1-2 gallons
  • Plastic push clips - Qty: as needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Expedition on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • 🧊 Make sure the engine is fully cool before touching the cooling system.
  • 📌 This guide covers either the upper or lower radiator hose. The process is similar, but access is tighter on the lower hose.
  • 🧰 A hose clamp plier is a tool that squeezes spring clamps evenly so they can slide back without damaging the hose.
  • ♻️ Place a drain pan under the radiator area before loosening any hose.
  • 📱 No infotainment menu steps are required for this repair.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Cool the Engine and Remove the Reservoir Cap

  • Use your hand only after the engine is cold to slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap.
  • Stop if you hear pressure escaping. Wait until the sound stops, then remove the cap fully.
  • The reservoir cap is on the translucent coolant tank in the engine bay.
  • Cold engine only.

Step 2: Remove Any Lower Shielding if Needed

  • Use a plastic trim clip tool to remove any plastic push clips from the lower splash shield if it blocks access.
  • Use an 8mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove any small shield screws.
  • Set the fasteners aside in order so they go back in the same places.

Step 3: Position the Drain Pan

  • Place a 2-gallon minimum drain pan below the radiator hose connection you are replacing.
  • For the upper hose, place the pan below the front of the engine and radiator connection.
  • For the lower hose, place the pan directly below the lower radiator outlet.
  • Use shop towels around the work area to catch small spills.

Step 4: Drain Enough Coolant

  • Use a flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip only if your radiator drain is accessible and has a slotted drain plug.
  • Turn the drain plug slowly counterclockwise and let coolant drain into the pan.
  • If the drain plug is not easy to access, skip it and drain coolant by loosening the hose slowly in Step 5.
  • Do not force a plastic drain plug. It can break.

Step 5: Release the Hose Clamps

  • Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamp tabs together.
  • Slide the clamp back several inches onto the hose.
  • If your replacement hose has worm-drive clamps instead, use an 8mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to loosen them.
  • A worm-drive clamp is the common screw-style clamp that tightens with a small bolt head.
  • Repeat this on both ends of the radiator hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Radiator Hose

  • Use your hand to twist the hose gently back and forth to break it loose.
  • If it is stuck, use slip-joint pliers 10-inch to gently rotate the hose only. Do not crush plastic fittings.
  • Pull the hose off the radiator and engine fitting.
  • Let remaining coolant drain into the drain pan.
  • Do not pry hard against the radiator neck. Many radiator fittings are plastic.

Step 7: Clean and Inspect the Hose Connections

  • Use shop towels to wipe the radiator and engine hose nipples clean.
  • A hose nipple is the round tube the hose slides onto.
  • Check for cracks, broken plastic, corrosion, or old rubber stuck to the fitting.
  • If a fitting is cracked or badly pitted, do not install the hose until that part is repaired.

Step 8: Install the New Hose

  • Compare the new radiator hose to the old one before installation.
  • Use your hands to slide the new hose fully onto both fittings.
  • Make sure the hose is not twisted and does not rub against the fan, belt, pulleys, or sharp brackets.
  • The hose should sit past the raised bead on each fitting.
  • The raised bead is the small lip that helps keep the hose from sliding off.

Step 9: Position and Tighten the Hose Clamps

  • Use hose clamp pliers to move spring clamps back into their original positions behind the raised bead.
  • If using worm-drive clamps, use an 8mm socket and torque wrench inch-pound range to tighten them evenly.
  • Torque to 3-4 Nm (27-35 in-lbs) for typical worm-drive radiator hose clamps.
  • Do not overtighten. Too much force can damage the hose or plastic radiator neck.

Step 10: Refill the Cooling System

  • Use a funnel with narrow spout to fill the coolant reservoir with Motorcraft Yellow Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant 50/50.
  • Fill to the MAX or COLD FILL mark on the reservoir.
  • Use only compatible coolant. Mixing incorrect coolant types can cause sludge or cooling system problems.

Step 11: Bleed Air from the System

  • Leave the coolant reservoir cap off.
  • Start the engine and let it idle.
  • Set the climate control to full heat and low fan speed.
  • Watch the coolant level in the reservoir and add coolant with the funnel if the level drops.
  • Let the engine warm up until the upper radiator hose gets hot and the heater blows warm air.
  • Install the reservoir cap once the level stabilizes.
  • Do not put your hands near the cooling fan while the engine is running.

Step 12: Reinstall Any Lower Shielding

  • Use a plastic trim clip tool to reinstall plastic push clips.
  • Use an 8mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to reinstall shield screws.
  • Torque to 2-3 Nm (18-27 in-lbs) for small splash shield screws.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Let the engine idle and inspect both hose ends for leaks.
  • ✅ Take a short test drive while watching the temperature gauge.
  • ✅ After the test drive, let the engine cool completely and recheck the coolant level.
  • ✅ Top off the reservoir to the cold fill mark if needed.
  • ✅ Use a coolant refractometer or hydrometer to verify the coolant freeze/boil protection if coolant was mixed or diluted.
  • ✅ Check again for leaks the next day.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.


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