How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2018-2022 Ford Expedition (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, parts, coolant bleeding, and torque specs for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2018-2022 Ford Expedition (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, parts, coolant bleeding, and torque specs for 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Expedition - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose on your Expedition means draining some coolant, removing the old hose, installing a new hose, and refilling/bleeding the cooling system. A swollen, cracked, leaking, or soft hose can cause coolant loss and engine overheating, so replace it before it fails completely.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant reservoir cap when the engine is hot. Hot coolant is pressurized and can cause serious burns.
- ⚠️ Let your Expedition cool for at least 2-3 hours before starting.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant away from pets and children. It is toxic and often smells sweet.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Coolant can irritate skin and eyes.
- ⚠️ Dispose of old coolant properly. Do not pour it on the ground or into drains.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for radiator hose replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
- Flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip
- 8mm socket
- 1/4-inch drive ratchet
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Slip-joint pliers 10-inch
- Plastic trim clip tool
- Funnel with narrow spout
- Coolant refractometer or hydrometer (specialty)
- Shop towels
- Torque wrench inch-pound range
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Motorcraft Yellow Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant 50/50 - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Plastic push clips - Qty: as needed
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Expedition on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 🧊 Make sure the engine is fully cool before touching the cooling system.
- 📌 This guide covers either the upper or lower radiator hose. The process is similar, but access is tighter on the lower hose.
- 🧰 A hose clamp plier is a tool that squeezes spring clamps evenly so they can slide back without damaging the hose.
- ♻️ Place a drain pan under the radiator area before loosening any hose.
- 📱 No infotainment menu steps are required for this repair.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Cool the Engine and Remove the Reservoir Cap
- Use your hand only after the engine is cold to slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap.
- Stop if you hear pressure escaping. Wait until the sound stops, then remove the cap fully.
- The reservoir cap is on the translucent coolant tank in the engine bay.
- Cold engine only.
Step 2: Remove Any Lower Shielding if Needed
- Use a plastic trim clip tool to remove any plastic push clips from the lower splash shield if it blocks access.
- Use an 8mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove any small shield screws.
- Set the fasteners aside in order so they go back in the same places.
Step 3: Position the Drain Pan
- Place a 2-gallon minimum drain pan below the radiator hose connection you are replacing.
- For the upper hose, place the pan below the front of the engine and radiator connection.
- For the lower hose, place the pan directly below the lower radiator outlet.
- Use shop towels around the work area to catch small spills.
Step 4: Drain Enough Coolant
- Use a flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip only if your radiator drain is accessible and has a slotted drain plug.
- Turn the drain plug slowly counterclockwise and let coolant drain into the pan.
- If the drain plug is not easy to access, skip it and drain coolant by loosening the hose slowly in Step 5.
- Do not force a plastic drain plug. It can break.
Step 5: Release the Hose Clamps
- Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamp tabs together.
- Slide the clamp back several inches onto the hose.
- If your replacement hose has worm-drive clamps instead, use an 8mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to loosen them.
- A worm-drive clamp is the common screw-style clamp that tightens with a small bolt head.
- Repeat this on both ends of the radiator hose.
Step 6: Remove the Old Radiator Hose
- Use your hand to twist the hose gently back and forth to break it loose.
- If it is stuck, use slip-joint pliers 10-inch to gently rotate the hose only. Do not crush plastic fittings.
- Pull the hose off the radiator and engine fitting.
- Let remaining coolant drain into the drain pan.
- Do not pry hard against the radiator neck. Many radiator fittings are plastic.
Step 7: Clean and Inspect the Hose Connections
- Use shop towels to wipe the radiator and engine hose nipples clean.
- A hose nipple is the round tube the hose slides onto.
- Check for cracks, broken plastic, corrosion, or old rubber stuck to the fitting.
- If a fitting is cracked or badly pitted, do not install the hose until that part is repaired.
Step 8: Install the New Hose
- Compare the new radiator hose to the old one before installation.
- Use your hands to slide the new hose fully onto both fittings.
- Make sure the hose is not twisted and does not rub against the fan, belt, pulleys, or sharp brackets.
- The hose should sit past the raised bead on each fitting.
- The raised bead is the small lip that helps keep the hose from sliding off.
Step 9: Position and Tighten the Hose Clamps
- Use hose clamp pliers to move spring clamps back into their original positions behind the raised bead.
- If using worm-drive clamps, use an 8mm socket and torque wrench inch-pound range to tighten them evenly.
- Torque to 3-4 Nm (27-35 in-lbs) for typical worm-drive radiator hose clamps.
- Do not overtighten. Too much force can damage the hose or plastic radiator neck.
Step 10: Refill the Cooling System
- Use a funnel with narrow spout to fill the coolant reservoir with Motorcraft Yellow Prediluted Antifreeze/Coolant 50/50.
- Fill to the MAX or COLD FILL mark on the reservoir.
- Use only compatible coolant. Mixing incorrect coolant types can cause sludge or cooling system problems.
Step 11: Bleed Air from the System
- Leave the coolant reservoir cap off.
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Set the climate control to full heat and low fan speed.
- Watch the coolant level in the reservoir and add coolant with the funnel if the level drops.
- Let the engine warm up until the upper radiator hose gets hot and the heater blows warm air.
- Install the reservoir cap once the level stabilizes.
- Do not put your hands near the cooling fan while the engine is running.
Step 12: Reinstall Any Lower Shielding
- Use a plastic trim clip tool to reinstall plastic push clips.
- Use an 8mm socket and 1/4-inch drive ratchet to reinstall shield screws.
- Torque to 2-3 Nm (18-27 in-lbs) for small splash shield screws.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Let the engine idle and inspect both hose ends for leaks.
- ✅ Take a short test drive while watching the temperature gauge.
- ✅ After the test drive, let the engine cool completely and recheck the coolant level.
- ✅ Top off the reservoir to the cold fill mark if needed.
- ✅ Use a coolant refractometer or hydrometer to verify the coolant freeze/boil protection if coolant was mixed or diluted.
- ✅ Check again for leaks the next day.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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