How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2016 Ford F-150
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, coolant refill tips, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2016 Ford F-150
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, coolant refill tips, and leak checks for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
Assumption: This guide covers replacing one radiator hose on your F-150. Clamp style and hose routing can vary, but the basic process is the same.
🔧 Radiator Hose - Replacement
The radiator hose carries coolant between the engine and radiator. If it is cracked, swollen, leaking, or soft, replace it before it bursts and causes overheating.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine go completely cold before opening the cooling system. Hot coolant can spray out and cause serious burns.
- Keep hands and tools away from the cooling fan. It can turn on automatically.
- Use only a cool engine when removing the radiator cap or hose.
- Have a drain pan ready. Coolant is toxic to people and animals.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable if you need extra clearance near the fan or belts.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 7mm socket
- 1/4-inch ratchet
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Drain pan
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Jack stands
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Engine coolant - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully before opening the cooling system.
- Put the transmission in Park.
- Place a drain pan under the radiator area.
- If your hose is hard to reach, raise the front of the truck with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve coolant pressure
- Make sure the engine is cold.
- Slowly remove the radiator cap or degas bottle cap to release any remaining pressure.
- Open it slowly.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant
- Place the drain pan under the radiator.
- If your hose sits low, drain coolant from the radiator petcock if equipped, or lower the coolant level enough so it sits below the hose you are replacing.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver or 7mm socket if a shield blocks access.
Step 3: Remove the old hose
- Use hose clamp pliers to release spring clamps, or a flat-blade screwdriver / 7mm socket for screw-type clamps.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the radiator neck and engine fitting.
- If it is stuck, work it loose carefully with your hands. Do not gouge the metal neck.
Step 4: Inspect the fittings
- Check both hose ends for corrosion, cracks, or sharp edges.
- Clean the fittings with a shop towel.
- If the radiator neck is damaged, stop and repair that first.
Step 5: Install the new hose
- Slide the new clamps onto the hose first.
- Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it seats against the stop.
- Position the clamps on the raised bead area of the fittings.
- Use hose clamp pliers or a 7mm socket to secure the clamps.
- Make sure the hose is not twisted.
Step 6: Refill the cooling system
- Use a funnel to refill with the correct coolant mix.
- Fill slowly to reduce air pockets.
- If your truck has a degas bottle, fill to the correct cold mark.
Step 7: Bleed air from the system
- Start the engine with the cap off if the fill procedure allows it, and let it reach operating temperature.
- Watch the coolant level and add more as air purges out.
- Set the heater to full hot and the fan on low.
- Once bubbles stop and the level stabilizes, install the cap.
Step 8: Check for leaks
- Inspect both ends of the new hose while the engine runs.
- Look for drips, wet clamps, or swelling at the hose ends.
- Shut the engine off and recheck the coolant level after it cools.
✅ After Repair
- Drive the truck and watch the temperature gauge.
- Check the coolant level again after one full heat cycle.
- Reinspect for leaks the next day.
- Dispose of old coolant properly.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$420 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$110 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















