How to Diagnose and Replace the Timing Chain on a 2017 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step guide covering timing belt confusion, chain repair, tools, parts, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Diagnose and Replace the Timing Chain on a 2017 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step guide covering timing belt confusion, chain repair, tools, parts, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Tucson - Timing Drive Inspection
Your Tucson does not use a replaceable rubber timing belt. The 2.0L gasoline engine uses an internal timing chain, which is designed to last much longer and is not a normal maintenance replacement item.
If you are hearing rattling, have cam/crank correlation codes, or suspect timing problems, the correct repair is timing chain diagnosis and possible timing chain component replacement.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not attempt to “replace a timing belt” on your Tucson because there is no serviceable timing belt.
- ⚠️ Timing chain service requires exact engine timing. Incorrect timing can cause severe engine damage.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before removing engine covers or working near the accessory drive.
- ⚠️ Support the engine properly before removing any engine mount. An engine support bar holds the engine safely from above.
- ⚠️ Never rotate the crankshaft or camshafts independently after the chain is removed.
- ⚠️ Work only on a cold engine to avoid burns from coolant, oil, and exhaust components.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 1/2-inch breaker bar
- 3/8-inch torque wrench
- 1/2-inch torque wrench
- Metric wrench set 10mm-19mm
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer puller (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Gasket scraper plastic blade
- Drain pan 10-quart minimum
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Timing chain kit - Qty: 1
- Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
- Front timing cover sealant - Qty: 1
- Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant - Qty: As needed
- Engine oil 5W-20 synthetic blend or full synthetic - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Tucson on level ground and let the engine cool fully.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
- Lift the front of the vehicle with a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and support it with jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Take photos before removing parts. This helps during reassembly.
- A timing chain tensioner keeps the chain tight while the engine runs. If it fails, the chain can rattle or jump timing.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Verify This Is a Timing Chain Job
- Use an OBD-II scan tool if available and check for timing-related codes such as camshaft/crankshaft correlation faults.
- Listen near the front timing cover during cold start. A brief or constant metallic rattle can point to chain, guide, or tensioner wear.
- If there is no rattle, no timing code, and no running issue, do not replace timing parts as maintenance.
- Tip: Timing chains are not routine service items.
Step 2: Remove Engine Covers and Intake Ducting
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the engine cover fasteners if equipped.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover to release intake duct clips.
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen air duct clamps and move the duct aside.
Step 3: Drain Engine Oil and Coolant
- Place a 10-quart drain pan under the engine.
- Use a 17mm socket to remove the engine oil drain plug.
- Drain the oil completely, then reinstall the drain plug and torque to 34-44 Nm (25-33 ft-lbs).
- Drain coolant into the 10-quart drain pan using the radiator drain if accessible.
Step 4: Remove the Right Front Wheel and Splash Shield
- Use a 21mm socket if your lug nuts are factory size and loosen the right front lug nuts before lifting if not already raised.
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum and jack stands rated 3-ton minimum to safely support the vehicle.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover and 10mm socket to remove the right-side splash shield.
- Reinstallation note: wheel lug nuts typically torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the Serpentine Belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) to rotate the belt tensioner and release belt tension.
- Slide the serpentine belt off the pulleys and remove it.
- Draw a quick belt routing picture before removal if the underhood label is missing.
- Tip: Replace the belt if cracked or glazed.
Step 6: Support the Engine
- Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers.
- Attach the support hook to a safe engine lifting point and apply light tension.
- Do not lift the engine hard. Just support its weight.
Step 7: Remove the Right Engine Mount
- Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to remove the right engine mount fasteners.
- Keep bolts organized by location because lengths may differ.
- On reassembly, tighten engine mount fasteners to the OEM service spec for your Tucson. If exact fastener type is unknown, do not guess.
Step 8: Remove the Crankshaft Pulley
- Use a crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty) to keep the pulley from turning.
- Use a 22mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller (specialty) to remove the pulley if it does not slide off by hand.
- Do not pry against the timing cover sealing surface.
Step 9: Remove the Valve Cover
- Use a 10mm socket to remove ignition coil fasteners and move the coils aside.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove valve cover bolts.
- Lift the valve cover straight up and remove the old valve cover gasket.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to clean gasket surfaces gently.
Step 10: Remove the Front Timing Cover
- Use 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket as needed to remove timing cover bolts.
- Note each bolt location before removal.
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to separate the cover carefully.
- Do not gouge the aluminum surface. Gouges can cause oil leaks.
Step 11: Set Engine to Top Dead Center
- Use a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt to rotate the engine clockwise only.
- Align the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks exactly according to the chain mark layout.
- Top Dead Center means piston number 1 is at the top of its compression stroke.
- Paint-mark the old chain and sprockets before removal as a backup reference.
Step 12: Remove the Timing Chain Tensioner, Guides, and Chain
- Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove timing chain guide bolts.
- Use the correct socket to remove the timing chain tensioner bolts.
- Remove the chain only after all timing marks are confirmed aligned.
- Do not rotate the camshafts or crankshaft after the chain is removed.
Step 13: Install the New Timing Chain Components
- Install the new timing chain with the colored chain links aligned to the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks.
- Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to install the new guides and tensioner.
- Torque small timing guide and tensioner bolts to the OEM service spec for your Tucson. If the exact bolt class is unknown, do not guess.
- Release the new tensioner only after the chain and marks are fully aligned.
Step 14: Rotate Engine by Hand and Recheck Timing
- Use a 22mm socket to rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns.
- Stop if you feel hard resistance. Do not force it.
- Recheck that the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks return to the correct positions.
- If marks are off, remove the chain and correct the alignment before reassembly.
Step 15: Reinstall the Timing Cover
- Use a plastic gasket scraper and shop towels to clean all sealing surfaces.
- Apply front timing cover sealant in the correct bead path around the cover.
- Use 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and 14mm socket to reinstall timing cover bolts.
- Tighten bolts evenly in stages. Use OEM torque specifications for each bolt size.
Step 16: Reinstall Valve Cover and Crankshaft Pulley
- Install the new valve cover gasket.
- Use a 10mm socket to install valve cover bolts and tighten evenly.
- Install the crankshaft pulley by hand.
- Use a crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty), 22mm socket, and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to the OEM service spec.
Step 17: Reinstall Engine Mount, Belt, and Shields
- Use a 14mm socket and 17mm socket to reinstall the right engine mount.
- Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) to route the serpentine belt over the pulleys.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover and 10mm socket to reinstall the splash shield.
- Use a 21mm socket to reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).
Step 18: Refill Oil and Coolant
- Install a new oil filter by hand until the gasket contacts, then tighten about 3/4 turn more.
- Add the correct amount of 5W-20 engine oil.
- Refill the cooling system with the proper engine coolant.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for abnormal chain rattle, knocking, or scraping.
- Check around the timing cover, valve cover, oil filter, and drain plug for leaks.
- Watch the temperature gauge and confirm the engine does not overheat.
- Top off coolant after the thermostat opens and air purges from the system.
- After the test drive, recheck engine oil level and coolant level.
- If the check engine light comes on, scan for codes before driving farther.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,400-$2,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$750 (parts only)
You Save: $1,100-$1,650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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