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2017 Toyota Highlander
2011 - 2017 Toyota Highlander
Inline 4 2.7L
Compatible with more variants.

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How to Change Engine Oil 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

How to Change Engine Oil 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander

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Tools & Fluids

14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
Oil Filter
Oil Filter
Wrench
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How to Change the Oil and Oil Filter in a 2011-2017 Toyota Highlander (Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, 0W-20 capacity, torque specs, and reset instructions for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

How to Change the Oil and Oil Filter in a 2011-2017 Toyota Highlander (Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, 0W-20 capacity, torque specs, and reset instructions for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Engine Oil and Oil Filter Change

Your Highlander uses a cartridge-style oil filter, meaning the replaceable filter element sits inside a reusable housing. Drain the old oil, replace the cartridge and sealing rings, refill with SAE 0W-20 full-synthetic oil, and reset the maintenance reminder.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 45-60 minutes


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and never crawl beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Allow the exhaust system to cool enough that it cannot burn you, but keep the oil slightly warm so it drains well.
  • ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses because used engine oil can irritate skin and splash unexpectedly.
  • ⚠️ Keep the engine off while underneath your Highlander.
  • ⚠️ Do not overtighten the plastic oil-filter housing; it can crack and cause rapid oil loss.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnection is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 14mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch-drive 6-inch extension
  • 64mm 14-flute cartridge oil-filter wrench (specialty)
  • Toyota-style oil-filter drain adapter (specialty)
  • 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench rated 10-80 Nm
  • Oil drain pan rated 8-quart minimum
  • Automotive funnel with 1-inch outlet
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks rated 2-ton minimum
  • Nitrile mechanic gloves
  • ANSI Z87.1 safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • SAE 0W-20 full-synthetic engine oil - Qty: 5 US quarts
  • Cartridge engine oil filter kit with housing O-ring and drain-cap O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Engine oil drain-plug crush washer - Qty: 1
  • Absorbent shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

Refill specification: Approximately 4.6 US quarts (4.4 liters) with filter replacement. Always make the final level decision using the dipstick.


📋 Before You Begin

  • 📍 Park your Highlander on level pavement, shift into Park, apply the parking brake, and chock both rear wheels.
  • 🌡️ Run the engine for three to five minutes, then shut it off and wait several minutes. The oil should be warm, not dangerously hot.
  • 🧴 Open the hood and loosen the engine-oil filler cap. Pull the dipstick slightly upward to help the crankcase drain.
  • ♻️ Prepare a sealed container for the used oil. Take it to an authorized oil recycler or service facility; never pour it onto the ground or into a drain.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

  • Place the 2-ton wheel chocks firmly against the front and rear faces of both rear tires.
  • Use the 2-ton floor jack at the reinforced front-center lifting point on the front subframe.
  • Position the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced side support points, then lower your Highlander onto them.
  • Gently push the vehicle to confirm it is stable before going underneath.
  • Never trust a hydraulic jack by itself.

Step 2: Open the Lower Access Area

  • Put on the nitrile mechanic gloves and ANSI Z87.1 safety glasses.
  • If the lower splash shield blocks access, use the 10mm socket, 3/8-inch-drive extension, and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove its fasteners.
  • Set the shield and fasteners aside in installation order.

Step 3: Drain the Engine Oil

  • Place the 8-quart oil drain pan beneath the oil-pan drain plug. Position it slightly toward the rear because the first stream can travel several inches.
  • Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug counterclockwise.
  • Finish removing the plug by hand while pressing it inward, then pull it away quickly.
  • Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip, usually 10-15 minutes.
  • Remove the old crush washer and install a new drain-plug crush washer.
  • Thread the plug in by hand first. Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Drain the Oil-Filter Housing

  • Move the 8-quart oil drain pan beneath the cartridge-filter housing.
  • Use the square drive of the 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the small center drain cap from the filter housing.
  • Remove the old small O-ring from the cap using your gloved fingers. Do not scratch its sealing groove.
  • Push the Toyota-style oil-filter drain adapter straight into the housing opening and let the trapped oil drain completely.
  • Remove the adapter. Lubricate the new small O-ring with clean 0W-20 oil and place it in the drain cap’s proper groove.
  • Use the 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to torque the filter-housing drain cap to 13 Nm (10 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Filter Cartridge

  • Fit the 64mm 14-flute cartridge oil-filter wrench fully onto the filter housing.
  • Use the 3/8-inch-drive ratchet and 3/8-inch-drive extension to turn the housing counterclockwise.
  • Lower the housing carefully because it may still contain oil.
  • Pull the old filter cartridge straight out and remove the large housing O-ring using your gloved fingers.
  • Clean the housing with absorbent shop towels. Do not use sharp tools on the sealing surfaces.
  • Lubricate the new large O-ring with clean 0W-20 oil and install it in the designated housing groove, not against the threaded edge.
  • Press the new cartridge fully into the housing.
  • Thread the housing into the engine by hand. If it does not turn easily, back it out and start again.
  • Use the 64mm 14-flute cartridge oil-filter wrench and 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to torque the filter housing to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • The O-ring seals it; extra tightening does not.

Step 6: Reinstall the Lower Shield

  • Use the 10mm socket, 3/8-inch-drive extension, and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to reinstall any removed splash-shield fasteners.
  • Snug the small shield fasteners evenly without crushing the plastic.
  • Use the absorbent shop towels to wipe oil from the drain-plug and filter-housing areas so fresh leaks will be easy to identify.

Step 7: Lower the Vehicle

  • Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise your Highlander slightly off the 2-ton jack stands.
  • Remove both stands and lower the vehicle slowly onto level ground.
  • Leave the 2-ton wheel chocks installed until the work is complete.

Step 8: Add New Engine Oil

  • Place the automotive funnel with 1-inch outlet in the oil-filler opening.
  • Add approximately 4.3 US quarts of SAE 0W-20 full-synthetic engine oil, then reinstall the filler cap.
  • Start the engine and let it idle for about 30 seconds. The oil-pressure warning light should turn off within a few seconds.
  • Shut the engine off immediately if the oil-pressure light remains on.
  • Turn the engine off and wait five minutes on level ground.
  • Remove the dipstick, wipe it with an absorbent shop towel, insert it fully, and remove it again.
  • Add oil gradually through the automotive funnel until the level is near the upper dipstick mark. Total capacity is approximately 4.6 US quarts (4.4 liters) with the filter.
  • Do not overfill above the upper mark.

Step 9: Reset the Maintenance Reminder

  • Switch the ignition on without starting the engine, then use the instrument-panel trip button to display Trip A.
  • Switch the ignition off.
  • Press and hold the trip-reset button.
  • While holding the button, switch the ignition back on without starting the engine.
  • Continue holding until the display’s countdown finishes and the maintenance data resets, then release the button.
  • Start the engine and confirm the maintenance reminder no longer appears.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Run the engine for one to two minutes while looking underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
  • ✅ Shut the engine off, wait five minutes, and verify the dipstick level again on level ground.
  • ✅ Confirm the oil filler cap and dipstick are fully seated.
  • ✅ Recheck the oil level and inspect for leaks after the first drive.
  • ✅ Record the date, mileage, oil viscosity, and filter replacement.
  • ✅ Dispose of the used oil and filter through an authorized recycling facility in Panipat.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹4,500-₹8,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹3,000-₹5,500 (parts only)

You Save: ₹1,500-₹3,000 by doing it yourself!

Panipat labor rates and imported US-market filter prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hour.


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