How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2016 Acura ILX
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, oil type/capacity, torque specs, leak checks, and oil life reset for 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2016 Acura ILX
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, oil type/capacity, torque specs, leak checks, and oil life reset for 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 ILX - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change
Changing the oil and oil filter keeps your engine lubricated and removes contaminants that cause wear. On your ILX, this is a straightforward service with a drain bolt and a spin-on oil filter under the engine.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours
Assumption: Stock engine and standard oil pan/filter housing.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool 20-30 minutes to avoid burns from hot oil and exhaust parts.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; oil can irritate skin and eyes.
- ⚠️ Keep oil off the drive belt and rubber hoses.
- ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this service.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 6-quart)
- Funnel
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lb range)
- Oil filter wrench, 65mm 14-flute (specialty)
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
- Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap (this helps the oil drain smoothly).
- If you raise the front, lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands under solid front support points.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the car
- Place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum), then set the car onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Give the car a gentle push to confirm it’s stable.
Step 2: Drain the engine oil
- Slide a drain pan (at least 6-quart) under the oil pan drain bolt.
- Use a 17mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the drain bolt, then finish removing it by hand.
- Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
- Remove the old crush washer from the drain bolt and install the new oil drain plug crush washer.
- Reinstall the drain bolt by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 39 N·m (29 ft-lbs).
- Tip: Hand-thread 3-4 turns before using tools.
Step 3: Remove the old oil filter
- Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
- Use the oil filter wrench, 65mm 14-flute (specialty) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
- Use shop rags to wipe the engine’s filter mounting surface clean.
- Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the filter (a stuck gasket can cause a bad leak).
Step 4: Install the new oil filter
- Put a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a glove and a small dab of new oil).
- Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine surface.
- Tighten the filter an additional 3/4 turn by hand. If you use a torque wrench and adapter, tighten to: Torque to 12 N·m (9 ft-lbs).
- Tip: Hand-tight is usually best for filters.
Step 5: Add new engine oil
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
- Pour in about 4.0 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic first.
- Reinstall the oil fill cap.
Step 6: Start the engine and check for leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
- Shut the engine off and look underneath with safety glasses on.
- Check the drain bolt and oil filter area for leaks. Tighten only if needed.
Step 7: Set the oil level correctly
- Wait 3-5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
- Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert, then pull again to read.
- Add oil in small amounts (about 0.2 quart at a time) using the funnel until the level is near the upper mark.
- Tip: Don’t fill above the top mark.
Step 8: Reset the oil life (Maintenance Minder)
- Turn ignition to ON (engine off).
- Use the steering wheel buttons to display oil life on the multi-information display.
- Press and hold the SEL/RESET button until the oil life starts blinking.
- Press and hold SEL/RESET again to reset to 100%.
✅ After Repair
- Take a short 5-10 minute drive, then recheck for leaks under the car.
- Recheck the dipstick level after the drive and top off if needed.
- Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts waste oil.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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